yetchh Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 3 hours ago, MaxPower said: still digging, 1050 od , 900 id hole thanks Bigger than I thought.. Shit, you do not want to fall in head first.. What are you digging it out with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted December 26, 2019 Share Posted December 26, 2019 spade with the handle cut off, then into a ss bucket hauled up on a rope and pulley. same way to get out just pull myself up on the rope 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted December 26, 2019 Share Posted December 26, 2019 4 hours ago, MaxPower said: spade with the handle cut off, then into a ss bucket hauled up on a rope and pulley. same way to get out just pull myself up on the rope What's the water quality like at 6.5m? Are you still digging in clay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post MaxPower Posted December 27, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 27, 2019 19 hours ago, rusty360 said: What's the water quality like at 6.5m? Are you still digging in clay? was dirt, pumice, sand , clay, then sand when i hit the water now I'm into pumice\sand where the water is, have dug 500mm today and the flow rate is 20L a minute its been running for about an hr now and is starting to run clear. Will get the water tested but happy just to have water for the animals, garden, spa pool and possibly the toilets if i can be arsed. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 27, 2019 Share Posted December 27, 2019 Fax me a bottle of it and il run it through next time in the lab 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Kimjon Posted December 28, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 28, 2019 Trying to make a timber feature wall. I brought 100 fence pailings (100×25×1000mm in size) at $0.85 each, some black thermo paper at $32 and that's about it really. I cut the gib at the cornice so I wouldn't have to redo them. This created a 20mm gap (10mm cornice, 10mm gib). This allows me to buzz the top boards down to 20mm so it doesn't look silly where it meets at the top. I thought about this problem obsessively until coming up with this as a solution. Fucking stoked with how this part turned out, as it would have looked ridiculous if it didn't do this step. I put black paper on the wall so if the boards shrink, the gaps will be black behind. also added more studs, so I could be a bit random with board placement. I didn't want it to look like bricks...all neatly stacked. I was more after a random rustic look. I ran each board over my 10" planner/buzzer to tidy up the surfaces. I did each board a different number of strokes varying the thickness of each board, once again to make it more random looking. I'll finish the corners in angle iron. The timber will be stained a dark colour. Then next is to make a new bed frame to try move my life out of the 1990's... 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Muncie Posted December 28, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 28, 2019 Instant ice blocks..... unfortunately not my build but i do get to eat them. 8 minutes for firm 10 and the are at dry ice temp and need cryo gloves to get them out. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post rusty360 Posted December 28, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 28, 2019 So I needed to sort these headlights out as Mr wof said next time it will be a fail son! I used to do a bit of high end injection mould polishing so thought it must have been easier than that. I'm farking stoked with the first one. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 2 hours ago, Kimjon said: Trying to make a timber feature wall. I brought 100 fence pailings at $0.85 each, some black thermo paper at $32 and that's about it really. I cut the gib at the cornice so I wouldn't have to redo them. This created a 20mm gap (10mm cornice, 10mm gib). This allows me to buzz the top boards down to 20mm so it doesn't look silly where it meets at the top. I thought about this problem obsessively until coming up with this as a solution. Fucking stoked with how this part turned out, as it would have looked ridiculous if it didn't do this step. I put black paper on the wall so if the boards shrink, the gaps will be black behind. also added more studs, so I could be a bit random with board placement. I didn't want it to look like bricks...all neatly stacked. I was more after a random rustic look. I ran each board over my 10" planner/buzzer to tidy up the surfaces. I did each board a different number of strokes varying the thickness of each board, once again to make it more random looking. I'll finish the corners in angle iron. The timber will be stained a dark colour. Then next is to make a new bed frame to try move my life out of the 1990's... That looks farking epic! A good friend did his barn house with plywood squares of all different colours and thicknesses for a similar look. Nice work. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 On 27/12/2019 at 13:49, MaxPower said: was dirt, pumice, sand , clay, then sand when i hit the water now I'm into pumice\sand where the water is, have dug 500mm today and the flow rate is 20L a minute its been running for about an hr now and is starting to run clear. Will get the water tested but happy just to have water for the animals, garden, spa pool and possibly the toilets if i can be arsed. Sweet as! That's s pretty good flow rate, water quality should be ok if it's being filtered thou pumice and sand, static water table should only come up in winter? That's a epic digging effort by hand! You obviously arnt colstrophobic! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 37 minutes ago, rusty360 said: So I needed to sort these headlights out as Mr wof said next time it will be a fail son! I used to do a bit of high end injection mould polishing so thought it must have been easier than that. I'm farking stoked with the first one. That came out great What did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Kimjon Posted December 28, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 28, 2019 Needs dark stain and add angle iron to the corners to tidy up those edges...then call it done. Like this...but imagine both corners floor to ceiling. I don't have any on hand, so need to wait until shops open maybe in a weeks time? The dark stain will make it all tie in, should really pop with the contrast and imperfections etc... 12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 On 28/12/2019 at 21:38, Mof said: That came out great What did you use? So I started with 1200 Grit wet and dry and gave them a good sand to move all the oxidation etc, sanded along the length of the lens, next i crossed it at 90 deg with 1500G to remove the 1200 Mark's then 2000Grit at 90deg to the 1500Grit Mark's. You want to end up with the sanding Mark's running the lenght of the lens. Then hit it with the blue buff, 8 bucks from super cheap, with some random cutting compound I had in the shed, prob went over them 3 times. Cleaned that off then went over them with the red buff and some plastic polish. Just ran the buffs in a battery drill. The sanding is the time consuming bit. They came up much better than expected how long they last who knows but it's not hard to do it again. 6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 UV rated clear coat over the top they reckon. I've only ever had glass lamps tho 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Adoom Posted December 31, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 31, 2019 So... something like 12 years ago I bought my vice 2nd hand. I was missing one of the jaws. Buying or making a replacement jaw should be straight forward.... right? I never found anything off the shelf that was the right size. Probably because the vice is polish. Since then I made do with only the one jaw... After a few years, the one jaw broke... But I continued to make do. Finally, yesterday I decided that the tools and materials I have, had reached critical mass and making replacement jaws was achievable. The old broken jaw... The 50X50 aluminium bar I chiselled it out of. It took a REALLY LONG time to saw this. My bandsaw doesn't really go fast enough for aluminium and the only blade I have is like 18tpi and kinda blunt. The mess I made. This is the first actual thing I have milled since I got it. I had only really used it for drilling. I used the 50mm face mill for the big flat bits and 12mm 4 flute for the ends and some of the surfaces. I destroyed one 12mm end mill when I discovered that it doesn't handle climb milling with the quill extended quite far. Chipped all the points off the end. Oops. I didn't have an end mill large enough to countersink the socket screws, so had to use a 14mm drill. And the finished jaws. The originals were 12mm thick. These are about 20mm. I guess if they get all gouged up I have enough meat there to mill them flat again. It took surprisingly long to make these. About 4 hours. 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Kimjon Posted January 4, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted January 4, 2020 My parents asked if I could build them a shade house. Sure...no problem. Think my parents are planning on growing dope to fund their retirement? (***this may or may not be true***) Makes good use of a wasted space (sloping ground above septic system). May not tick council boxes for step backs from boundary, but I'm sure they have bigger issues to worry about than chasing someone whose nearly 80 years old. They're going to wrap it in shade cloth in their own time, so think my job is done. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 On 31/12/2019 at 14:58, Adoom said: I never found anything off the shelf that was the right size. Probably because the vice is polish. First headlights, now bench vices?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Thousand Dollar Supercar Posted January 11, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted January 11, 2020 From the ever-expanding catalogue of Thousand Dollar Supercar's patented useless projects comes this: a bluetooth speaker. ...but it's bigger and more hipster. I started with a little bluetooth speaker I was given years ago, and an old extension speaker from TradeMe. The extension speaker (branded 'Tesla') is from the days of valve radios - you would hook it up to your radio for Ye Olde multiroom surround sound. Here is the partially-disassembled bluetooth speaker next to the single mono driver and front panel from the Tesla cabinet: Originally there was a cloth cover over this front panel, but it disintegrated when I tried to clean it. Also, as per usual I made a mess of the aesthetic / painting side of the project - I sanded the cabinet to get the old paint / stains / dents out, then tried to wash all the dust off which caused the veneer to start lifting. Then I used the wrong type of masking tape and my paint soaked through it. Anyway, the bluetooth speaker uses push-button controls, but I didn't want to add too many buttons to the cabinet and make its original knobs redundant. I tried to use a rotary encoder to operate the volume but I soon realised that wasn't straightforward, so I engineered this brilliant and highly sophisticated rotary switch instead: It's got ballpoint pen springs to give it momentary action because Kiwi ingenuity hilarious garbage, but it works quite intuitively and I haven't broken it yet. Here's the inside of the extension speaker cabinet, which I lined with carpet underlay: You can still connect an aux cable and the charger through holes in the cabinet base. To connect the cabinet's new buttons and indicator lights, I've soldered wires directly to the bluetooth speaker's PCB. This is the first time I've tried to deal with a board which uses surface mount construction (it's kinda tiny to do by hand / I suck), and I'm surprised I didn't ruin the board. Here's the finished cabinet: The snazzy fabric I bought to cover the new front panel looks kinda like snakeskin rather than vintage tweed. I had to go with blingy aftermarket knobs, and LEDs rather than bulbs for the indicator lights, because boring reasons. So the end result looks less groovy than I imagined, and sound-wise I didn't gain the bass I hoped for, but at least it''s done, upcycling achieved, one less half-finished project kicking around. I even fitted these belt hoops so you can take your music with you: Most of the time, the speaker will just sit around being needlessly large, badly engineered and hipster. But if I reattach its original 'Tesla' nameplate and say Elon Musk made it in Kindergarten, I'll be rich! 39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post beachlander Posted January 15, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted January 15, 2020 Was wanting to get a grinder for home, getting into a bit of knife making. Workmate who also does knife making said he had drawn up a 2x72 one. So we got a couple water cut out. Grabbed a motor and a VSD off some equipment at work that was getting thrown out. Few more things to do, get wheels, make a base, turn up an adaptor for my motor, make a housing for the VSD but getting there slowly on our lunch breaks. It also tilts so can use it horizontal which is cool. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Helped a friend with his deck, turned out pretty sweet. He'd made a few compounding errors that got away on him...I helped straighten it out, well at least it looks straight now, even if it isn't really. I've made him some floating steps, 1 on one side, 2 on the other. Ran out of time today (12hrs, no breaks) and my brain isn't working. Shit, shower, shave and I'll be good to go again. All he needs to do is wait for concrete to dry and slap on the boards for the steps which are framed and ready to go. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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