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chrisr's nixie and electronic barrying thread


chris r

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propane works better for soldering than mapp does, I sucked less today at joining the last piece together. I will file and sand the lumps off and dive it a polish again

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I'm going to attempt to make a concrete box or surround for this so started on a mould today Did some barry maths in the  back of a invoice which seemed to work out (my phone camera has gone to shit since its latest update which is annoying). I'll finish it off tomorrow and see if a grease/old engine oil mix will work as a release agent or at-least stop the concrete sticking. I'l also attempt to insert some steel angle into it so I have something to mount the face and backing plate to

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So I fucked around most of today making a metal box with the intention of welding tabs onto it and bondong it to the concrete 

Started off well 

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Welded the brackets in and forgot that thin metal shrinks when you weld it and it turned to shit at that point 

I got it less bent but I'm still unhappy with it, and I don't have any more metal to start again 

I've screwed it down onto some timber and I've put down a barry release agent for the mould 

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So instead of making the metal stay in the concrete I thought about trying to bond a bolt in or something. I remembered I had some rivnuts so rangid up these. The idea is they will stick in the concrete and I can bolt stuff to that 

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And in continuation of my durping today I drilled the rivnut hole too big and it spun so I ended up welding it In. I'll make two more brackets and mix up a bit of concrete and see how well everything goes tomorrow 

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So those brackets ended up too thick so I made up a mk2 design 

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And I actually got all the holes in the right place first attempt 

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And bolted up. My (barry) theory is I can undo the bolts and slide the inner form out and the brackets with rivnuts will stay behind and I can use them to mount stuff. Hopefully the 10 ish mm of concrete either side will be enough. I'll find out tomorrow 

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New! Used castrol Edge Wood stain and concrete release agent. I've embraced barry life and am soaking the ply in oil in the hope that the concrete won't stick to it

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You might want to consider adding some fibres in the concrete, I played around with building speaker enclosures and found that it kept falling apart, for bigger cabinets I used fibre and rebar.

I also found that concrete culvert pipes made good enclosures, good fun messing around with this stuff. :thumbright:

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44 minutes ago, kempy said:

You might want to consider adding some fibres in the concrete, I played around with building speaker enclosures and found that it kept falling apart, for bigger cabinets I used fibre and rebar.

I also found that concrete culvert pipes made good enclosures, good fun messing around with this stuff. :thumbright:

Thanks! Yeah I've seen fiber reinforced Concrete mentioned a fair bit in my researching/trawling and want to try it. 

I'll have a dig through the hoard and see what I've got. I wonder if shredded insulation would work 

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Some small tips:

If you are going to use fibreglass you don't need concrete mix, just sand and cement. So it makes it a lot easier to work...

If you add a fine bead of silicone to your internal corners in your form you will get chamfered edges on your finished piece and no seepage from the mould. 

You can lightly sand the finished product if it has any high spots, without aggregate you won't get that ground concrete look, but care is required to not expose the fibres. 

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6 hours ago, AllTorque said:

You also want to get the air out by tapping or vibration.

Or pop down to mitre 10 and buy one that’s ready made

https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/firth-grey-block-190-x-290-x-190mm/p/431438

I tapped the fuck out of it and had a stick stirring it, problem was I made the first bit of the mix top dry which is what caused the gaps etc 

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6 hours ago, AllTorque said:

You also want to get the air out by tapping or vibration.

Or pop down to mitre 10 and buy one that’s ready made

https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/firth-grey-block-190-x-290-x-190mm/p/431438

That's not the os way! Why but ready made when you can spend way more time effort and money for a shitter result 

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14 hours ago, Rupertg said:

Some small tips:

If you are going to use fibreglass you don't need concrete mix, just sand and cement. So it makes it a lot easier to work...

If you add a fine bead of silicone to your internal corners in your form you will get chamfered edges on your finished piece and no seepage from the mould. 

You can lightly sand the finished product if it has any high spots, without aggregate you won't get that ground concrete look, but care is required to not expose the fibres. 

Cool tip re the silicon thanks! 

 

I'll need to make better forms if I'm going to use the fiber reinforced stuff, good point with the polishing/grinding and the fibers. 

I am aware I'm trying to do stuff with concrete that probably shouldn't be done so I'm expecting a lot more lessons along the way 

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So I was wandering how to mount the copper gubbins without it being seen, Then I remembered I had some rivnunts. Tried some maths to figure out how strong m3 are, gave up pretty quickly and just put 8 in.

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Had a essential delivery the other day of some brunox and clear coat

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Gave the thing a few coats, its brought up the bits I didn't polish properly but that's fine

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I attempted to drill the mounting holes and fucked them up, rage quit and put the plate in the bin. 

Re cut one today. Got confused af working stuff out but got there in the end. I messed up my maths on a couple of holes but found out after a triple check and measure. Couple of tacks and a bit of a grind and that fixed that up 

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Got a bit worried about the overlapping holes 

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Turned out okay, evenly drilling the holes mixed with the wood pilot hole worked out well 

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I'll finish off the holes tomorrow 

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finished off the holes today and didn't ruin the holesaw

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Did some 202 spec porting (Made the holes too big as I was having fun with the die grinder)

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couple of welds filled in the air where I needed to put the mounting bolt holes

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All bolted up. This took way longer than it should have but thats barry life

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I'll probably spend all of tomorrow getting mad and trying to drill the mounting holes for the copper. Hindsight says I should have clamped the copper on and drilled the holes through the plate and copper at the same time but I cant turn back time so I'll figure something else out tomorrow

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