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Adoom's 1982 KP60 "Starvia" Discussion


Adoom

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm sure your tie down to key via spanner idea worked great but what I would do it connect a wire to the starter solenoid and touch the other end to battery positive to crank to engine.

The Link has an input from the ignition "start" position that needs to be live before it will do its thing, like make the sparkle plugs sparkle. Your idea would probably work on something with carbs.

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How hot did you get it? All that grease and shit probably tightened up all the gaps in the bearings.

Bit of heat should sort it out.

Also. I have an rfb skyline that was freshly rebuilt. Was making 100psi cold idle and 60 hot idle.

So don't worry about it. Maybe check the oil is pissing out of the cam bearings at idle to reassure yourself.

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How hot did you get it? All that grease and shit probably tightened up all the gaps in the bearings.

Bit of heat should sort it out.

Also. I have an rfb skyline that was freshly rebuilt. Was making 100psi cold idle and 60 hot idle.

So don't worry about it. Maybe check the oil is pissing out of the cam bearings at idle to reassure yourself.

I got it warm enough for the thermostat to open, maybe 3 or 4 times, then only running for a few minutes checking for leaks.

 

How would I check the cam bearings are "pissing oil at idle"... All I can see through the filler hole is one lobe. I imagine running the engine with a cam cover off would make a bit of a mess?

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Yeah good point. Check it with another gauge.

Just put 1 bolt in a rocker cover and start it. Then undo it and lift off quickly to check. It's only a light flick of oil.

The oil should be not so much 'pissing out' but lightly running out of each one.

The oil feeds the head on the inlet cam side. So if you check the exhaust side you will know all the can journals are getting fed.

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Actually 60psi at idle is sweet. That's 4 bar. I would be stoked with that.

Might have been less when you first started it due to oil gallery's and filter full of air etc.

The workshop manual says pressure at idle should be more like 20psi. And 50-60psi at 3000rpm

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So I started it when I got home. I can actually see one of the exhaust cam bearings/caps through the filler hole and I can see oil coming out around the......journal? And there is plenty splashing around. So oil must be getting through the whole system. So I ran it till it was good and proper warm/hot. The oil pressures are now down to where the manual says they should be.

 

I visited STM on my lunch break and booked it in on the 9th, I wanted to do the week before, because I am on leave, but they were full up. But I can drop it off the friday I am on leave.

They will run the engine in on the dyno $$$ then do the dyno tune $$$$, then because it is not road legal and they cannot do the road tune part of the tune, they "pull it back" so it's "safe" and I can go sort out my cert, wof and rego. Then I bring it back so they can finish the road tune which is included in the dyno tune cost.

 

I've yet to figure out how I will pick it up since I am at work. The trailer I had thought of borrowing is out of action because of brake problems. I guess I won't get away with just driving it home, it looks conspicuous with its multicoloured panels and rego sticker that says 2014.

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