Jump to content

Adoom's 1982 KP60 "Starvia"


Adoom

Recommended Posts

Passed its cert check on Friday, with nothing needing changing!! He has also done a wof check, but can't submit the wof until the new cert plate arrives. Hopefully the plate should arrive on Wednesday and I can put some rego on it and pick it up on Thursday. Been two years since I drove it.

I'm going over there on something called.....a "train". Gonna be fun times, or death, driving it home, the long long long long long way because the LSD is a bit harsh and the weather is supposed to be wet.

Is it time to pick it up yet?!

How about now?

Now?

 

 

 

Now?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked up the Starvia this morning from the certifier in Carterton. Test drove/ran in the engine driving back to Upper Hutt via Pahiatua -> Palmerston North. The twisty bits were good fun, but the loooooooonnnng straights not so much.

By around 150km I'd had enough of the road noise and had to put on the ear defenders that I brought with me for exactly this reason. By about 200km my eyeballs were starting to melt and the ear defenders were crushing my skull. 250km, I was a couple of minutes from home, I removed my ear defenders and it was an EXPLOSION OF LOUDNESS!!!! And I thought I could do all of the ~500km run in on one day. LOL.

Next job is to try find the annoying loud rattle. There is not much it could be, I think it's the muffler touching the spare wheel well as there is only half a gnats nut clearance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just dropped it back at STM for the road tune. I wonder if there will be a noticeable difference between the "ignition retarded for safety, to get it legal" and after the road tune.

And OH GAAAAAAAD!!!, the SQUEAKING RATTLE!!!!! My new theory is that the trailing link urethane bush is dry and it's making all the noise.... maybe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled the springs and shocks out the back with the car on axle stands and the diff head supported by the jack with some rags on it to reduce noise from there.

After bouncing it around a bit and using the mechanics stethoscope/screwdriver I decided that the noise was from the lower left rod end. I already cleaned and greased the rod end and bolt on the top left.

I did the lower one too and it didn't fix it.

I think the cause might have been the lower arm was adjusted a few mm too long so when it moved it got way more force on it. I slacked off the adjusters on that arm and adjusted it until it was in the middle of the loose area. 

 

I also thought about putting some of the friction modifier I had into the LSD to try shut up the chatter, but it was already at overflowing and the oil looked milky so I want to change the diff oil soon as.

I'm not sure how the diff oil gets water in it.... it's been sitting in the garage for 2 years. It very rarely gets wet... Where does the water come from?????

 

Well, I took it for a test drive up to Kaitoke and the noise appears to be gone... for now.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Supercheap had a sale on Saturday, so I got 5L of Penrite 85W140 LSD oil.

I drained out the old stuff. Filled it up with penrite. Then ran it in 5th while on axle stands. Then drained that oil out. It was all foamy, like mixed with water. Then filled it again, ran it in 5th, drained it. It not as foamy. Then filled it again and decided that was enough.

While running it on the axle stands I could see that the gearbox output shaft seal was leaking and spraying the underside of the car with oil. Yay. Burnt gear oil smells great.

So I'll need a new seal. I'm sure I've done this before.... I hope its not a problem with a bearing or something that's causing the seal to fail prematurely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

So I FINALLY got around to removing the badly leaking gearbox tailshaft oil seal.

It was a bit of a bitch to lever out with the flat head screw driver.

It turns out the propshaft is too long, so at some points in the suspension travel, the shaft of the yoke is thrust, right to its base where it is has more girth, and this has reamed out the seal in the gearboxes tail end. The weld at the base of the yoke shaft has also 'machined' a bit of a step where the seal goes in.

The alloy casting will need to be cleaned up a bit and a new seal should go in fine.

I'll get the propshaft shortened. It was probably borderline too long since I had it made and since then it's been reshelled, had a new gearbox mount and adjustable trailing arms installed. 

I could probably get myself a bit more clearance using the adjustable arms, but I'd rather shorten it to be safe.

IMAG5363.jpg

A well reamed seal.

IMAG5369.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought an oil seal the "same" size and got Brian at howatt to shorten my propshaft. I went to go install them this morning and the seal is not a friction fit, it goes in easily and can move around. Damn. It must be only 0.1mm smaller than the original. So, do I just silicon it in, or do I go to Nissan to get the oem seal and hope it's a tighter fit?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

So I want to try get the STARVIA into a position where I can get it out of the garage. Maybe I can take it for a WOF so I can drive it!!

Unfortunately, the STARVIA is the first thing I put in the garage then I put all the rest of the crap in. The garage is full as because all my house stuff is in here and I am living in it while the house is built.

There is no driveway, there is just a ~30cm drop outside the roller door.

I want to avoid moving things outside for this exercise, it's wet and muddy and currently dark.

IMAG0087.thumb.jpg.7d82c222d9d21e121f05b7e59228b005.jpg

IMAG0088.thumb.jpg.e0906b03759dd2e5529f3409e8041a98.jpg

I'm standing on a bench to take these photos. 

I think there is JUST enough room to fit the STARVIA behind the Triumph with its arse pointing out at the door.

I somehow need to get all the stuff behind the STARVIA to in front of the STARVIA. Then use the trolley jack to pull the front of the STARVIA around behind the triumph....

Problems:

That big box behind it is a fireplace on a pallet... it's fucking heavy. It's too wide to fit down either side of the triumph.

There is also a flue kit there, it's not heavy, but it's big.

The thing in the bag behind the bike is a lazyboy, it's not heavy, but it's a big and awkward. 

The bench by the roller door is too heavy to move.

The triumph can't move, it's on axle stands with no suspension.

I need to lift the drill press onto the bench I was standing on without breaking my back.

 

Feels like one of those sliding puzzles with the one clear space and you have to move the different size shapes around.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HAAHHH!!!

 

IMAG0089.thumb.jpg.7f7c5a5adceca74b44768fc06a2bf50f.jpg

PUZZLE MASTER!!!!!..

I  cut the end off the triumph exhaust to get it in there.

Now I have to walk all the way down the other end of the garage through my 'living quarters', the storage piles and the 'workshop area' to get the the other side of the car. Might be faster to just crawl through the doors.

Motorbike battery was nearly flat, wouldn't start it, same deal for the STARVIA battery. :( I put the motorbike battery on charge.  

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Parked up for almost a year, reg on hold.

Went for a wof cause I have the week off. 

FAIL!

Brakes are all over the place making it pull to the right. Handbrake doing sfa on the left side. Foot brake doing sfa at the rear and left front.

Of course I got waved down by the police man who was hanging out on the road that everyone speeds down, 2 minutes from my house. Probably because my car looks like shit. He was okay, I opened with "Hi, I've JUST failed my wof and I'm on the way back home". I showed him the wof sheet and he checked my licence and sent me on my way.

I'll pull the rear drums off and see if they are rusty and the cylinders still move. And check the front pistons are not stuck. Then I guess I'll try bleed them and go for a test drive.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I removed the drums. The right one was a bit tight, left one was how I expect it to be with the handbrake off.

Press brake pedal.... nothing happens at the rear. Well.... shit. Pulled the master cylinder off. Had some crusty brown shit where it fits into the servo.

First piston came out with some thrusting. I had to use compressed air to get the second one out. There was a little bit of crunchy stuff that came out. 

I cleaned it up with some wetndry wrapped around a socket extension in the drill.

I'll take it to MP Autoparts tomorrow and see if Greg can find me a kit for it. I think it's off a early 80's corona....

Hopefully nothing else needs rebuilding. I suspect I have never rebuild the master cylinder. Pretty sure I have done the front calipers.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I went to  see Greg first thing yesterday. He didn't have the right kit, but made up the seals I needed from stock he had on the shelf.

Rebuilt the Master cylinder.

Refitted to car.

Started bleeding the rear system. Discovered one of the big fittings was leaking. GAAAH! And I could not get the spanner on it because the reservoirs and the hardline are in the way. I had to remove the brake pipe from the fitting and use a socket to tighten it. Then bleed the rear system again.

No problems bleeding the front system.

Test drive, doesn't pull to the right anymore. Brakes seem fine to me....

 

Today. Rain Rain Rain Rain Rain Rain Rain. Welding the Triumph some.

14:00, fuckit I'll just just take it for a recheck in the rain. Even though the muddy mud lake that thinks it is my driveway is extra huge.

 

Fail AGAIN!

"Back brakes doing almost nothing"

Sigh.

Back home. Jacked up rear of car.

Removed wheels.

Pulled off drums.

Managed to remove a wheel cylinder without removing BASTARD springs. Winning.

Wheel cylinder corroded solid. Doh.

Remembered I had the PBR part number written down in the Starlet's little red book of parts origin.

16:00 call Supercheap. "I have a PBR part number for a wheel cylinder..." "what's the rego?". sigh. But he did remind me we have a local BNT.

16:05 Call BNT. "I have a PBR part number" "We have two of those on the shelf".

Zoom zoom to BNT and get my wheel cylinders.

17:30 New cylinders fitted. Drums on. Bled. Wheels back on. Car down. STOP!

 

Guess what I'm doing tomorrow....

Fuck I hope hope he still doesn't decide my brake booster isn't boosty enough.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And for the "optics". Here is todays driveway lake. Photo brought to you by Balvenie Double wood. And a pictureographic of Pete and Barb's house.

IMAG0194.thumb.jpg.bbd456c8612c941a3f7ccd208525d1c9.jpg

It was the smallest it's been in agestes's on the weekedn but the rain of today and the day before yesteraven has reincreased its massivisity by the folds, many of them.   

Is n't dinner finished cooking fet? Fuck!

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FAIL!

Left rear brake doing fuck all compared to right side.

Back home again.

Car up

Wheel off

Drum off.

Turn little adjusty wheel till I can only just get the drum back on.

Wheel on.

Handbrake off, can still turn wheels.

Handbrake one click on, cannot turn wheels.

Spose it's okay, I have no other way to test it.

Car down.

Back to VTNZ. I was lucky, both times there was no one in the queue before me.

PASS!!!!!

FINALLY!

At least it's not fucking raining today.

 

 

 

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Last WOF they pointed out some rust starting under one of the rain gutters. Since the next WOF is overdue, I thought I'd better have a look at it.

While I had the window out, I had a look at the rust I had painted with POR15 almost 10 years ago. It hadn't advanced, but since I was there, I decided to fix it properly.

IMAG0785.thumb.jpg.788373cd2c668c4a8192fd58de952fdd.jpg

After wire brushing and using metal prep/acid and painting a little por15 silver. A few tiny spots I didn't manage to get off.

IMAG0783.thumb.jpg.7a4e203294e7a8b8160005cb4f638b8c.jpgIMAG0784.thumb.jpg.ef55f2ef6e8e0364e7f6cb8babe3215b.jpgIMAG0787.thumb.jpg.b94bdd93a19d1e86bea8862e5e8cb789.jpgIMAG0786.thumb.jpg.f441ccdf1710b70c403671ba9cc98015.jpg

Found that the 'corner' of a cylindrical carbide bit in the die grinder is REAL handy for cutting the short lines where a cut off wheel won't fit. Just grind a groove till it breaks through.

IMAG0789.thumb.jpg.f27622dcaa63b774bb1f3dbd11c58b47.jpgIMAG0791.thumb.jpg.1252a46973a98dd2378bd222806d78ce.jpg

Still need to grind the welds back... 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Finally got around to wrestling with the gearbox at the start of lockdown. I needed to swap it out with a spare because the seat for the output shaft oil seal was damaged due to a too long propshaft and it would leak oil. 2nd gear started making noise.

Put some essential oils in.

Didn't look at invoice so no dicks were seen.

@Dell'orto

 

I pulled the old box apart and there was fuck all oil in it. 2nd gear looked physically okay, but was all black and burnt. Reverse had chipped corners from missing 4th a few too many times.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I went to get a wof for this some months ago and they failed it on "the brake switch". "Oh you mean the adjustable bias valve? It's been there since 2006.". But they said it's not on the cert plate, so fail. Turns out it was on the first cert plate, but was overlooked by the cert inspectors on the last two plates(they didn't put it on the plate order form).

I spoke with LVVTA and they said it was not uncommon. They sorted me out at no cost and printed me a replacement plate. But I did need to take the car to them to do a brake test.

Of course on the day, it was pissing with rain.

Half way there I discovered that my alternator charge cable was unplugged?! So the battery was totally dead by the time I got over the Remutakas. Dad to the rescue with a jump start.

Then driving up Ngauranga gorge, still raining, some guy appeared to be planning the merge into the side of me from the left. So I picked the 'accelerate a bit' option. I left it in 5th and applied a little gas... fine fine fine BOOST! And the rear end let go. I barely managed to stay in my lane which was fortunate, because on my left was the curb and on my right was a wall of spinning truck wheels.

I figured that my tires were probably quite old and a bit hard. But still lots of tread.

A few days ago I finally remembered to have a look at the date on the tires. 2005!! 

I suppose my semi slicks won't work so great anymore either. 

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...