xsspeed Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 if you can find a whiteline rear ARB id get one too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddy415 Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Whiteline adjustible rear swaybar is said to be one of the best mods you can do on these cars. I have an extra front brace on mine and arear brace they do make a bit of diference. ultimate would be coilovers but you wont go wrong with king lows only go superlows for looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 ie use superlows lol 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 glad injector did the trick mine had jamex's and big rear swaybar was really happy with height , feel and handling (they were in it when I got it and had settled till not captive at all fyi) only cars I have ever regreted selling are AE82's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toddy415 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Nice work i reckon the 5/4s really suit it and will look even better when you slam it haha. Reminds me of the old race ae82's that ran 5/4s 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Positive Ape Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 I had one of these and it used to die at idle when warm. I replaced the IACV and it was all gravy. Don't forget the o-ring/gasket kit that goes with the IACV. I did, and had to make another trip to the dealer. Just commenting because you are repairing your IACV. When I replaced mine in 2005 it was only about $120 for a whole new one I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 I read on the interwebs they are no longer available, but should probably call and find out anyways. Will have a go slamming this one back together anyways, found an article on how to adjust them for wear and tear and its spent a few hours in the ultrasonic cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Ok so I put the throttle assembly all back together, slammed it on and fired it up, ran fine. I realised I forgot to plug the TPS in, d'oh silly me, turned car off, plugged it in and tried to start it again and it wouldn't go, gave a little cough and died. After fluffing around for a bit I decided to go back to basics, air,fuel,spark etc. started on spark because easy. No spark. hmmm. I have no idea whats up with that. Could forgetting to plug the tps in have damaged any components? Theres an immobiliser that is half uninstalled maybe that is to blame? Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Quick question. The car is now running mint, however in a box of parts I got from the previous owner I found a oxygen sensor, and there is a blanking plate on the header where it belongs. Do these early 4ages normally have a exhaust O2 sensor or is this a case that the manifold is aftermarket/off a blacktop or something and it is not needed on this car? I cant find a plug that it looks like it belongs to or anything. Since its working mint now its not really a big deal, just a bit of a mystery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Nice. Full profile shot of it on the 5/4s pls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 NZ new 4AGE's didn't run an o2 sensor from memory, but the import ones have it in the manifold, most likely where your blanking plate is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Looking good. The rust repair is almost identical to my old ae 82. The early ecus can often be repaired. I know a person who we used to send them to. WIll have to dig up the number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 admit to having soft spot for ae82's. learnt to drive in dads old fxgt. not much original in the one i have now. 20v ST, using ae92 superlows from memory in a mix/mash ae92/101 brakes n suspensions. rear upper spring cap needs ae92 version to fit coz different diameter. plenty 82 nutters on ae82.net yeh nz new didn't have the oxy sensor. see if you can track down the toyota yellow book for ae82 and the 1983 4age blue manual. heaps of info in them. should be able to download too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 admit to having soft spot for ae82's. learnt to drive in dads old fxgt. not much original in the one i have now. 20v ST, using ae92 superlows from memory in a mix/mash ae92/101 brakes n suspensions. rear upper spring cap needs ae92 version to fit coz different diameter. plenty 82 nutters on ae82.net yeh nz new didn't have the oxy sensor. see if you can track down the toyota yellow book for ae82 and the 1983 4age blue manual. heaps of info in them. should be able to download too. How much quicker are they with a silvertop? as is it feels pretty similar to my ae101 levin with silvertop. They are a lot cheaper/more common if the 16v blew up. Still working through a few little issues: -creaking noise from the rf under braking, gets worse the harder you brake. probably one of the pad shims out of place/touching the rotor or something -when its cold it has a terrible flat spot from 1k to 2k rpm. It got a little better when I turned up the idle mixture potentiometer, prob just needs moar rich. -It has a loose wire to the lf bumper indicator, the bulb is fine but only goes intermittantly -It has a bit of a tick under accelleration, probably has a exhaust leak from the header flange, might just need nuts retightened. -the big one is that the radiator fan does not seem to switch on automatically like it should, which means I cant take it through traffic at the moment. So will be trying to get the worst of these ironed out this weekend, but have still clocked up about 100km since wof and no major issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 I wouldn't say it a big difference in power. less weight in the ae82 so be faster than your ae101. 20v needs the revs to make power. be curious to race a std fxgt! I would've gone blacktop if i had a choice but picked up a complete ae101 for dirt cheap and had the setup sitting there waiting for a chassis. Its a relatively simple conversion except for wiring which not everyone's cuppa tea. flat spot... maybe check tps position, map sensor and fpr hoses have no splits, put some injector cleaner in the tank. um, check water temp (green) sensor is plugged in nicely. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakesae101 Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 How much quicker are they with a silvertop? as is it feels pretty similar to my ae101 levin with silvertop. They are a lot cheaper/more common if the 16v blew up. Still working through a few little issues: -creaking noise from the rf under braking, gets worse the harder you brake. probably one of the pad shims out of place/touching the rotor or something -when its cold it has a terrible flat spot from 1k to 2k rpm. It got a little better when I turned up the idle mixture potentiometer, prob just needs moar rich. -It has a loose wire to the lf bumper indicator, the bulb is fine but only goes intermittantly -It has a bit of a tick under accelleration, probably has a exhaust leak from the header flange, might just need nuts retightened. -the big one is that the radiator fan does not seem to switch on automatically like it should, which means I cant take it through traffic at the moment. So will be trying to get the worst of these ironed out this weekend, but have still clocked up about 100km since wof and no major issues. The one i co drove in with a mildy worked silvertop ( porting and a megasquirt) all stripped out hauled ass we used to hit over 200kph fastest i saw on the trip meter was 220 on a long straight mates fxgt with a standard smallport went really well too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke.brussow Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 Don’t know if you know but this thing is back on the market place for 1K. It’s got even more issues XD. It starts up but had no power at all. This thing must be cursed it’s giving all its owners grief 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlipperyZX Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Hi all! Wat wat! Its got a forever home now! Anyone who misses its double-browness can see it live in the flesh this summer at the rangiora show! It ran but stuttered badly all over the place. Ditched some weird idle up solenoid that was floating around and flipped the tps sensor around. Helped, then I gave the timing a twist by ear and f*ck me she flys! Still some tidying and tuning but hey she's on the up. I think it just didn't like the wrong island XD 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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