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tortron

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just universal. the russian bloke had 3 or 4 designs

the one i got is a knock off of the old compagnolo design which was most popular in history

 

just measure the angle of your chainstays and go from there.

Pick a track end with lots of meat around the tabs if the angle is wrong, so you can just shape it to fit (this is what any bike builder does wehn they build a new one anyway)

 

 

OR

 

make your own, although these were cheaper than me scabbing a bit of scrap steel and buying a new blade

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Pics have disappeared into the either but this is what that Mustang sport that was cut in half looks like nowIMG_20190108_171815.thumb.jpg.a43ab98ea290bf9dc460f81ee8e4cb5e.jpg

 

Some swish parts on there and some cheap as well

Unfortunately those brakes in the floor only clear up to 35s and I decided I want 2.1 inch.

 

Also the frame doesn't clear 2.1" tyres.

Pretty sure I can modify the fork crown without weakening it, and clearance the bottom bracket side of the rear triangle.

Then I'll convert it to cantilevers or v brakes. I already have the old cantilevers from my touring bike, so probably those.

 

What then?

 

Huck it off some trails till it's fucked. The repaired frame seems ok. I silver soldered some dowels inside the tubes and joined them back together. Have jumped on it a few times to see if I can crack it, but nope it's pretty solid .

 

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So I torched off the brake bridge

I used the torch because I had hoped I could just reuse it higher up. But it was quite thin tube, and I had already drilled out the brake mount re-enforcing to wafer thin. So it deformed too much. Will just make a new one. 

IMG_20190108_174619.thumb.jpg.734164f5dab1dae63018d9eabc9f08a2.jpg

Might do the same with the chain stay bridge. I think I could get away with bending the shit out of it. But may as well do two if I'm doing one

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And dropouts embiggened to fit axles

Brake bridge and chainstay bridge removed.

Rubbing on inner chainstays - the tyre goes past the existing clearance flattened part. I think I'll spread them a little and flatten a little and it will be heaps of clearance. Might put in some webbing as a gusset instead of a tube bridge. Or leave it out all together. Some say it's ok some say you will die instantly.

 

Will cut a radius in the bottom of the fork crown and weld in an arch to keep the forks from splaying. Also need to flatten the inside fork a tiny amount

 

 

All the steel in this is pretty thick, so she'll be right

IMG_20190108_193215.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Nope. Used a punch and dolly to flatten the inside of the chainstay out all factory like. No chance.

So I cut it in half, bent them out, welded in some thicker tube and spear pointed the ends. Doesn't feel any more flexy than stock.

8Z7fUh8.jpg

6WOWT9U.jpg

 

qpnPKb0.jpg

 

Can just get the wheel in without deflating the tyre and have about 5mm clearance each side at the widest part

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  • 7 months later...

So yeah nah, I gave up trying to fit the 29s it was going to be garbage.

 

The solution?

 

Buy 3 new bikes

 

First, a Raleigh pioneer which accepts the 29" no worries

IMG_20191109_142822.thumb.jpg.42317ddd97314aaa7e1b83042b2bef5d.jpg

 

May set this up as a single speed or 1x7 or 1x9 depending on what parts I dig out of my pile.

Would also make a legit tourer, have the original fork too but I gues the stack height was a bit low for the guy.

 

2nd I wend and bought a nice modern mountain bike. All clean and shiny

 

Then took the wheels off it

IMG_20191109_142833.thumb.jpg.311eae644f83bc2e6d1e360103dac1d0.jpg

 

27.5" fits nicely with the mods I've don't to the rear, will still need to widen the forks a bit, but won't need to clearance the top of them.

Also there's disk brakes, so some brackets for them, and some gussets everywhere else

 

If anyone wants the remains of the other 2 bikes (a Canadian mixtie and a small melvern star complete less the wheels HMU)

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