sr2

SR2’s 1947 Vauxhall “Rigamortice” Discussion thread.

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John Brett is a well-known LVVTA hater.

 

The advice above is correct though - wheels do not need to be hub-centric generally.

LOL, possibly a kindred spirit? (Only taking the piss).

Being of the age that I have had considerable experience in modifying cars in both the pre and post LVVTA  era's I suspect my humble opinion is worth at least worth consideration....

 

"Hating" the LVVTA is a pointless exercise. Hate should be reserved for individuals, not  bureaucratic institutions.

Having lived through the history that has led us to the present LVVTA regime it's hard not to come to the belief that we have ended with and unwieldy solution to a problem that never existed in the first place run by a self perpetuating  "old boys whisky club" whose primary agenda is to justify their own existence.

 

I'm a firm believer in automotive anarchy, it's great to see sites such as this still promoting automotive individuality and freedom.  

 

My only advice has to be break a few rules every now and then and push the boundaries as far as you can get away with it, you'll love the feeling of freedom. :)

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John Brett is an idiot first, then a well known LVVTA hater. Was a certifier but booted out.

I haven't a clue who he is or possibly was. 

I'm not sure what you mean when you describe him as being a "hater"?

Does this mean he had some irrational or pathological hatred of the LVTTA or  did he just disagree with them?

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I use approx 1 teaspoon per 2 litres of water, using a stronger solution has little or no improved effect.

The charger is one of my old-school "rescues", it has the original transformer but I replaced the rectifying  circuit with a Jaycar unit, it's capable of around 6 amps at 13.5 volts (ish!). The max I've got out of it removing rust is around 4.5 amps.

You end up with a black film where the rust was but it's easily removed with a wire brush or wire wool or you can just paint over it with an etch primer. The sacrificial scrap steel you connect the +ve to doesn't last long and ends up plated with rusty crud.

I think the advantage electrolysis has over phosphoric based treatments is that it's less invasive i.e. you don't need to worry about damage to threads and machined surfaces. 

Have a play with it and let us know what you think.

HI, I remove the black stuff with my waterblaster with the spinning head on it. It will blow holes in your boots that strong. For the anodes I using iron rod, but I read somewhere that titanium is the best to use. Titanium is what is used in the salt cells of the pool chlorinators. I have tested the titanium anodes from my old salt cell, and this is going quite good. You don't get the build up of the dark brown sludge on your anodes. Today I went to local pool man to ask him if he can save the old salt cells for me, if he is replacing them for his customers. I also diy zinc plate my bolts, nuts and bumper brackets.

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HI, I remove the black stuff with my waterblaster with the spinning head on it. It will blow holes in your boots that strong. For the anodes I using iron rod, but I read somewhere that titanium is the best to use. Titanium is what is used in the salt cells of the pool chlorinators. I have tested the titanium anodes from my old salt cell, and this is going quite good. You don't get the build up of the dark brown sludge on your anodes. Today I went to local pool man to ask him if he can save the old salt cells for me, if he is replacing them for his customers. I also diy zinc plate my bolts, nuts and bumper brackets.

I'm interested in how you zinc plate?

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I'm interested in how you zinc plate?

It had a learning curve, but I think at the moment it is going well. I bought a 25L container at M10 http://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/storage_shelving/plastic_storage/perroplas_rolling_organiser_40_litre_clear_213519/ (but then 25L)

I used the electrolysis formula of this page: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=119931.0 except for corn syrup I used sugar, because I didn't wanted to do another drive to pack$ave.

I found out that the hydrochloric acid is quite important, if you don't put your metal in it for 2 minutes, the zinc wont stick to the metal so well. I first used CLR, but that was just not nasty enough.

I went to the poolman for the hydrochloric acid, but unfortunately a concrete contractor had bought all the hydrochloric acid in Hawkes Bay. Luckily M10 had it for sale, but more $$$

 

On Aliexpress I bought this power supply: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-Mini-Adjustable-DC-power-supply-0-30V-0-10A-110V-OR-220V-Switching-Power/32338449585.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1,searchweb201644_2_10001_10002_10005_301_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_3,searchweb1451318400_6151,searchweb1451318411_6449&btsid=e7a7be96-cce8-4965-ac8d-f97420685f57 Don't get to excited about the wires which come with it, they start to smoke at 2.5Amp. But the supply itself is ok.\ Somehere I read that it is the best to use 0.01Amp per square/cm

 

 

The epsom salt is from hateme: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1013776295

The zince sulfide too: http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/gardening-landscaping-supplies/other/auction-1022637074.htm

As for the rod: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/bolts-anodes-fittings/auction-1019781612.htm I have cut the rod in 2 in the lenght, It worked out better. It is a line in sight process. If I knew before, I would had bought 2 rods, I had the blisters on my hand of the cutting.

 

The vinegar came from mrs dobiwallahs kitchun.

 

There are many howtos on the net with different ways to do zinc plating. The one were I got the formula from works for me the best.

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I seem to recall snell springs being on industry road in Penrose sometime early 2000's when I was working at nuplex across the road

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I seem to recall snell springs being on industry road in Penrose sometime early 2000's when I was working at nuplex across the road

Yes apparently they moved to penrose when Newmarket started moving up market. Apparently they closed up shop a few years ago.

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You're description reminded me of the Simpsons gay steel mill

LOL; an apt description, (we're talking 50 or so years ago).

Could you imagine the health and safety nightmare if you tried to do the same thing today!

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Great build thread, cheers for the history. Proper old school.

I'm also gonna scour junk shops for an old vice, just cos...

Be very careful mate, collecting and rebuilding old tools and machinery can become an obsession. You'll soon discover that as well as vises there are old drill presses, power hack saws, lathes, bench saws,....etc. all out there waiting to be rescued, restored and then used on old school projects!

Great info here on this Bench Vise Thread.       http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?121511-A-Bench-Vise-Thread 

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I was going to say triumph to as the bolt is bent from slamming into something.

 

 

armstrong have a shock absorbers catalogue

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Thanks guys, I'll check the Armstrong catalogue and Triumph out. (The bolt was bent when I dropped the diff out, if it was hitting something it would have failed some 200,000 km and 30 years ago). :-)

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The other option is go and have a chat to the BnT boys on Hillside Road. I have always found them most helpful and knowledgeable, with a good range of parts catalogues

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Early Hilux, XP Falcon from memory also run stud/stud fitment.

 

A decent parts supplier should be able to sort you out some replacements if you give them the full closed measurement and full extension

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On shocks, there is an online Monroe catalog that is handy for swap sourcing.

 

http://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/catalogue-search.html

 

On valves, there is very likely to some stock valve that fits, or can be cut down to fit.

 

If you are really stuck, there is always the custom approach http://www.ferrea.com/custom_valves.php

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