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SR2’s 1947 Vauxhall “Rigamortice” Discussion thread.


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22 hours ago, chris r said:

If you wire it as drawn the relay/fan will always be on as it'll earth out through the bulb 

I figured that would depend on the resistance of the bulb :idea: and the current required to pull in / hold in the relay :scratch:, so I didn't mention it. ;)

I think flyingbrick's idea of essentially putting the bulb in parallel with the relay coil should work?

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  • 1 month later...

You did a top job on the gauges Simon and the ignition switch is an absolute work of art. You just can't beat that vintage look.

Quick question for you regarding the Nissan wiper motor that you used. Do you know what model Nissan it came out of?  I played around with a few options for the Thames, but I'm not that happy with my current setup so I'm thinking of doing a rework and your setup looks ideal.

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A shunt resistor will let you run the 20A ammeter, just be aware of parasitic load if it's connected all the time?
Will depend on value of shunt resistor, only 12V pushing it so anything over 1kohms total resistance (including parallel meter resistance) means you're looking at milliamps...

https://www.rohm.com/electronics-basics/resistors/shunt-resistors

 

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5 hours ago, Flash said:

You did a top job on the gauges Simon and the ignition switch is an absolute work of art. You just can't beat that vintage look.

Quick question for you regarding the Nissan wiper motor that you used. Do you know what model Nissan it came out of?  I played around with a few options for the Thames, but I'm not that happy with my current setup so I'm thinking of doing a rework and your setup looks ideal.

Hi mate, the wiper motor was off a Nissan Tilda C11 (2004 to 2011 I think?).

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3 hours ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

A shunt resistor will let you run the 20A ammeter, just be aware of parasitic load if it's connected all the time?
Will depend on value of shunt resistor, only 12V pushing it so anything over 1kohms total resistance (including parallel meter resistance) means you're looking at milliamps...

https://www.rohm.com/electronics-basics/resistors/shunt-resistors

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you used voltage drop across a shunt resistor to calculate the amps? (i.e. I'd need to use a volt meter).

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

You can get all those trafficators going again. It's usually the shellac on the windings is failed and shorting. Fairly straightforward to rewind by hand, not too many wild turkeys cos there's 700 odd coils

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18 hours ago, tortron said:

You can get all those trafficators going again. It's usually the shellac on the windings is failed and shorting. Fairly straightforward to rewind by hand, not too many wild turkeys cos there's 700 odd coils

Could be a good winter project, any idea on what resistance the windings should be?

I've been thinking of buying some flashing LED's for them  https://classiccarparts.co.nz/classic-car-led-12v-self-flashing-36mm-semaphore-trafficator-amber-led-slimline-256-12v36flash

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3 minutes ago, sr2 said:

Could be a good winter project, any idea on what resistance the windings should be?

I've been thinking of buying some flashing LED's for them  https://classiccarparts.co.nz/classic-car-led-12v-self-flashing-36mm-semaphore-trafficator-amber-led-slimline-256-12v36flash

I did mine just by roughly measuring the wire and counting the coils. I might have some further in for long deep in my morrie build as it was about 2007 I did it.  The resistance is probably in the manual somewhere, il see if I can find it

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