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mlracing's Hakosuka.


kyteler

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My father told me a story of one of these, a guy named Dave Storey had one in the 80s/ maybe early 90s.

Was a blue 2 door, he dropped in a windsor v8 and ran it in Waiuku clubsport events, like closed road sprints, hill climbs etc.

Not sure what happened to it, or where it is now

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Yup, definitely still points. I don't know much about what fits these engines, but if you can get a bolt-in electronic replacement go for it. Probably one of the best upgrades you can do.

 

If you are looking at putting in an electric pump I would be replacing the mechanical pump altogether. Not an overly complicated job, hardest part is putting in a system so the fuel pump can cut out when the engine stops so it doesn't continue to pour fuel out in the event of a crash.

 

How old is the fuel in it? Stale fuel can mean it takes a bit longer to start

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Yup, definitely still points. I don't know much about what fits these engines, but if you can get a bolt-in electronic replacement go for it. Probably one of the best upgrades you can do.

 

If you are looking at putting in an electric pump I would be replacing the mechanical pump altogether. Not an overly complicated job, hardest part is putting in a system so the fuel pump can cut out when the engine stops so it doesn't continue to pour fuel out in the event of a crash.

 

How old is the fuel in it? Stale fuel can mean it takes a bit longer to start

Got new fuel in it, although every chance there is gunk in there I guess from old fuel/running it low for shipping etc

 

 

When I get a chance I'll take some photos of the differences and the stuff you need.

Rich just sent me this link - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Seems pretty excellent, thoughts?

With the fuel pump yeah that's true need to work out how to turn it off, I guess run a cut off with the ignition or similar.. hmm.. something down the track to check out anyway.

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I have looked at putting something in to kill the pump as Im pretty sure my factory pump has nothing, apart from the key that does it, an lpg safety switch looks like the best option. From memory I think they switch on the pump for brief period when the key is turned on which allows for priming the carbs then they rely on a signal from an ht lead to keep the pump on, as soon as the engine dies the pump turns off.

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I bought a reconditioned electronic dizzy from the US on ebay. wasnt too expensive and cured all my ignition problems.

make sure you get the one with the right ignition module. i found all the information on google

 

-actually that link richy sent you is what i followed

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Before you try to start it when cold next time, check the float bowl on the carb to see whether there's any fuel left in it. Prior to that perhaps, pull the choke, stab the gas three times then turn the key.

I'll have to work out how to take off the filter box then I can check that haha. But yeah good idea. There should be some sitting in there for the next start right? I usually pump the gas a few times and sometimes it pretends like it's gonna start then back to winding over without firing >_<

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Before you try to start it when cold next time, check the float bowl on the carb to see whether there's any fuel left in it. Prior to that perhaps, pull the choke, stab the gas three times then turn the key.

I have the same fuel issues. If it's been running in the last 48 hours then 1 pump of the throttle plus some choke and it starts. 3 days or more not running and the fuel in the carb has gone/evaporated/been drunk by aliens, and it takes a lot of cranking for the mechanical fuel pump to fill the lines and get it back to the carb.

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OK, my suggestion based of my frozen environment and many choke affixed vehicles would be first thing in the morning/after it sitting over-night, several hours what-ever. Pull the choke all the way out. Stab the gas three times. Turn the key with an eager foot to give it a little solid gas at about quarter throttle (only IF it catches) then push the choke in slowly whilst holding a little throttle, maybe sit the choke at half for a little bit until it's running a bit better then eventually put it all the way in using your throttle to modulate the idle.

If you can get that first catch, the motor will have spun fast enough to let the mechanical fuel pump fill the bowl to continue running or at the very least allow you to attempt to start it a second time with fuel actually there.

If however the carb is draining completely due to sitting then none of this matters and your easiest option is simply one of the fuel pumps like Beaver or Snoozin got for their cars, that way you turn the key, it primes the carb, spin it to starter and you're golden.

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