84 posts in this topic

How about the footy aye,


Few more coats of primer on things



in between coats I tidied up the gearbox on the outside, New guibo, and new gaskets.


looked ok to me on the inside. but Im unsure if the speedo drive works, 124/125 type wont work the drive gear is reversed and a wee bit larger on the 2300.


X1/9/lada clutch slave needed some modification to fit but it does, + new clutch line.
I had to cut off the clutch return spring tab as well so gonna need to make a bracket or something for that on the outside

Also spacers - i think it must mount on the opposite side of the engine on the cars lits listed for.

I also seem to have mislaid the clutch ajdustment nut


And finish up with the first coat of proper paint - its a very light cream/grey that matches the original engine bay/interior sheetmetal colour.


TBH looks a bit crap and glossy over my poor prep (urhg i hate sanding, especially around all the fiddly tabs and bolts in an engine bay) but the ugliest lupiest runnyest bits will be hidden by stuff still to go back in to those same bolts and tabs, and it wont be bright, clean and shiney in there for very long!

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Installed the first thing from the parts car
- the coolant reservour bottle strap still had the original italian transfer on it
i put some clear coat over it to make it last a bit longer

Then finished putting the engine bay back together (actually just scratching and fingermarking my new paint)
most of the engine bay things were very oily and dusty but they came up a treat after a soak in the mystery solvent from the rusty can, some paint and an oil/grease up as required.

rewrapped the loom with self amalgamating tape
cleaned and greased the gear linkages
painted brake booster and brakets, new brake master cylinder,
cleaned reservours (will probably swap them to 124/125 style as the lids on these ones have a grotty rubber seal that will leak)

Put in the giant MM coil from my 125 (snapped a terminal off the original one removing it)
l  still need to patch the loom to it;
missing the factory air horns but this one came with instead and it works fine
- they have a switch under the dash to swap between 'country' (the air horns) and
'town' horns (a standard piezo type in the wheel arch).

pretty much ready to have the engine and box dropped back in
but I have since taken off the brakes (look ok),
and 60% unbolted the front suspension to pull it all out for a go over and refresh,
and sort out a blind notch in the torsion bars  :D

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Woops - I havnt been updating this:




Front shocks - these are the 124 KYBs from the 125 that i retired for new Koni yellows. They are not going to waste.


Other than not being so HUGE in girth they are otherwise as good a fit as i could have hoped for


Slightly shorter at full extension (CHECK)


Slightly shorter at max compression (CHECK (also they dont stay compressed!, CHECK))


The will also bolt up (after some minor work with the cut off wheel, but that hardly counts) CHECK

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Received a package today as well - mostly clutch stuff (pilot bearing, release bearing and flex plate - 205mm like the 124/125 but 10 spline) so tidied the original up




like most of the mechanical parts on this car it looked like crap untill the greasy smeg is cleeaned off and it came up really good:






I will slap that in and call it done.

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Ive had quite a few packages turn up lately, so have been picking away at stuff as i can when bits turn up. I have not had 100% success tho :(


So I have about 3 things on the go at a time and my shed is too small for that!


the 850 upper wishbone bushes dont fit - the OD of the 2300 pivot shaft is 17mm, not the 14mm of the smaller cars. Everything else is the right size :( oh well, i will worry about sourcing those later - i need a press/puller to remove the old ones anyway.


Also a 1500 clutch cylinder (was v cheap on ebay) but it doesnt fit - its too long to fit between the firewall and booster, so i will take the original cylinder (and the other bung one on the parts car) into Sterling Brakes with the calipers when the rubber kits for the brakes from ebay (rear) and skandix.de (fronts) turn up.



Lada tie rod ends (only one lemforder :( ) and Ferodo brake pads from rockauto.  Also some ball joint boots -  just waiting for some tie wire and i have some new tie rod clamps and some steering idler bushes coming from Ladapower so when all that arrives ill put the car back on the ground.



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also been receiving some enginey bits as well - you can see the Regina-Extra timing chain and some more gaskets in the piccy above.

I have ended up pulling the head off because of a sticky valve, which i should have done anyway:




it was for the best - as usual everything was pretty grebbed up, but in pretty good nick underneath




couple of the exhast valves could probably do with replacement but they lapped up ok and the seats are very good.

I also opened up the exhaust ports a bit where they exit the head just so they transition to the much bigger manifold a bit better. The inlets were already a good match, so i just smoothed the roughest bits.




Also got a box of 6 Purolator filters for $US1.49 each from Rockauto runout - the shipping was more expensive!

Intalled the new Regina timing chain with the new pulleys from the kit, crank shaft seals and sump gaskets today,
so bottom end is back together, just waiting on some valve stem 'seals' to put the head back together and drop the engine back in the hole (after swapping the pilot bearing).

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and finally, big Thanks to AA_LAWS who i pony-expressed some parts for when i went to welly came and popped the windscreen out for me the other day. :)



Pretty happy with what we found under there, other than the two patches i knew about in each lower corner, the surround is great - even the trim clip holders are in excellent condtion!






Drivers As first seen


Drivers after a clean up and an intial coat of pimer



As revealed


and ready for the chop

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Surf has been great and work super busy so Ive slowed down on this lately.


Finished of the roof/gutters, which was not as bad as the other side




but still pretty bad




once the paint was off it was much better



Still had 3 holes in the middle of the roof panel, used disposable aluminium oven trays to stop the sound deadening and roof lining from catching on fire.


Seems to have worked as the car did not catch on file nor are there any holes in the liner.


Slowly slowly with the spot spot spot and no warping. Just a skim of primer (or two) and thats the roof done.





Next job is to drop the diff next to tidy that all up incl new seals, and will also make getting into the rear quarter/boot rust a bit easier.

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Been overseas for a few weeks, but got back on Saturday, Sunday got back into the rust bucket.


Only one major drivetrain parts assembly remains to to be unbolted from the body:






Axle seals leak, (have new ones 'in stock') but so does the pinion seal which i dont have .

Pinion is leaky to the extent that on removing the diff/driveshaft flange it was literally full of  old diff oil which is always nice, but on the positive side has also kept the underside pretty well rust proofed .


The parts car wont save me this time as has no spare diff head to swap in, and i also hope the wheel bearaings are ok (as retaining collars are NLA?) and im not keen on speding up large for a full diff rebuild (the old mark and slightly over tighten will do for now i think!)


Ill also replace the hard brake lines while im there (only has a soft line from the body to the diff tee), and add lowering blocks & new bumps




Anyway with that off i could play with the ride height (the rear is about 3" lower at rear from where it was sitting before
the front torsion bars are wound up as far as they will go :sunny:  (lower arms are just above horizontal) 







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Had the day off monday to recover from the weekends Nats shananigans, and inspired by all the freaken sweet wagons, dug a bit deeper into this one while paint was drying on the dissasembled diff parts.

Start putting the valance out


To reveal what i think is the reason for (most) of the rust in this corner - the big rusty hole is right behind the wheel and would have let water and crap into all the rust traps pre built into this thing.


Bleugh. So many intersecting parts here.


To access this from behind/underneath  i need to get into this corner. This is also pooped.


As is the liner/double skin behind it, but not as bad as the other side. On teh other side i deleted the inside skin. Undecided on removing this one as yet. I probably should.


Bit more out.


In some good news, the front of the wheel arch and the arch itself is actually really good.


Just a wee hole to deal with on there and a patch in the sill (obviosly!) The bottom of the sill is great too.


Two full dust pans full of crap and this removed:


Still need to pick the rest of that corner of the rear valance & the end of the chassis rail apart, its going to be a bit tricky to put back together as i have to chop out all the datums before i can get started putting fresh metal back in  :?

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Made quite a bit of progress on the rusty hole othis week


hole made a lot bigger



had a few people at OS Nats say that they wished they had the tools to do body work, and that i must have some mean ones.

Ah, no not really!

my grandads hammers, some gilbow shears and a vice. oh and cut of wheels and flap discs!


But ill show you how i do it.


mmm whats another for pirate treasure? This is my template. Yum



for small bits like this (whicn is most rustwork usually) just picked apart, cut off the rust and remake,
Use cereal boxes as template material as it bends like metal but is easier to cut and trim.
Once the carboard fits without forcing it,  transfer it to steel repeat the folds, trim till it 'falls' into place


this is the boot floor corner - bit of a wiz with teh power file and thats ready to be stuck on


This is the basic process but a bigger simple shape

template made and sheet ready to cut- i use some Gilbow shears i got at a second hand shop, they are great.


sheet being folded, on a bit of I-beam. Just tappy tap tap with the hammer, all of a sudden it will be done.
For small bits i use the vice, but man I wish i had a folder, much neater (and quicker!)



valance section nd a bit from the base of the d pillar remade from "templates"


valance etc ready to weld underneath


also tapped in the stenthening indent by clamping the edge on the i-beam and using a cold chisel,

You could make a template to tap around too, but meh it was a square. Again just tappy tap tapperoo till its suddenty done.



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