84 posts in this topic

Testament went and checked it out back in 2009.


Im pretty sure its not moved in that time, and 5 long years in that leaky car port hasnt done it any favours but its hopefully still savable and looks pretty much the same just mouldier.


Photos shamelessly stolen from Toms thread on T124, unsure of the photographer:






rust hole in floor - this is the only 'major' rust I saw - plenty of minor stuff to keep me busy for a while including the roof.







room for a double DIN dvd player?


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filled my first few holes, only 999 to go...




bit of a bugger to weld due to all the fish oil and/or waxoyl all through it but its in good nick for a 50 year old tail gate so glad its in there.


Also my plan to 'keep the patina' got overridden (on this panel) by my inability to stop picking scabs.



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for the last few weeks i have been spending an hour or so a night faffing around with this rusty POS, inlcuding getting into the garage (meaning the 125 is outside in the weather :( )


I have done a bit more welding on the front corner around the headlight - i gave up on that for now as I got a lead about a parts car - more on that later.


So i decided to concentrate on the engine and see if i can get it to go.

So far ive just been pulling bits off for inspection, cleaning them up and putting them back on.

Crossed off the list so far:

- Starter solenoid was well siezed, but one from my 125 parts stash fitted perfect - woot spun up on the bench so all g i hope.


- radiator out - its stuffed - i have a RX2/3/4 radiator that is a wee bit wide for the 125 that will probably go back in its place

- water pump off - also pooped, will probably run an electric fan like the 125 rather than the electromagnetic factory lump, but i still need a new waterpump (~$100 US on ebay)

- generator tidied up - no reason it wont work as far as i can tell - easy to put a later model one on if required.

- distributor tidied up, feed up all the bits and pieces, again looks good, even the points were unpitted (have some NOS ones spare already)

- carburettor  cleaned out - all jets are as per factory, but overall seems pretty smallish for a larger engine, but IDK. (Weber DCD 23/25)

A bit of crap in there but cleaned up nice




- timing cover/gear - chain seems really loose

- new kits inlcuding both pulleys  are around $100 US on Ebay


like 20mm of slack



gouging on the inside of the cover also suggests excessive movement


Getting that off meant i could have a look into the sump and also get a spanner on the crank nose nut, and engine is definitly not seized (yay) and in fact feels a bit too easy to turn with the plugs in (boo)-


cant see anything untoward, but the centrifugal oil 'filter' on the crank nose was full of dried up silvery deposits that were also magnetic :(


hopefully its all from the timing chain but i suspect not.


Will try start it up this weekend. Given the brakes dont work and clutch pedal is stuck on the floor i wont be driving it but making a good racket will be exciting.

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And last weekend i took a trip to wellington to check out a 2300 sedan parts car for rust cut purposes.


The car is owned by well known wellington 2300 nut Mark, and he has a really nice '65 wagon, the parts car i went to check out, another 'good' parts sedan and a '65 sedan in the body shop.


65 Wagon

'my' Parts sedan


I also managed to get a few bits off him to take home including

- spare indicator/park lights (for the terminals)

- spare dash
- column indicator/lights switch (which i broke when i got it home!)
- tail light lens
- fuse box cover
- and some other small bits and bobs


unfortunately the parts car is pretty poked in much the same places as mine but may be useful for quite a few random bits. Mark is hanging onto it in case he needs any bits for the sedan in the shop, when it comes out early next year, and i cant use it or collect it at the mo anyway, so it worked out well. Nice to have a good contact anyway.


I also picked up some 130 rims from another guy on the way back, so will tidy them up and chuck them on soon.


heres a pic of a 2300 sedan with some on (and a 16V Turbo engine)



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I got the Cromodora CD9's cleaned up - i only had black etch primer, and i liked the look so i went with a matty b top coat as well.






wound the torsion bars down as far as the adjusters would allow, need a 44mm socket to get the retainer nut off the front of them to take them out and rotate them a spline - surprsing amount of adjustment with just the nut tho.


right rear caught on the handbrake thingee, enven tho the left has about 5mm clearance, so unsure what to do about that, will worry about it later as its on the 'against the wall side' for now.


pretty happy with how it panned out:



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Woops missed this post from September 22




new parts oooohh


124/125 brake master - is 3/4" not 2300 7/8" but good enough to get rolling (probably never change it but happy to deal with slightly more pedal travel than spend $400 + shipping more).

2 out of 3 brake hoses - 2nd of the front hoses is on back order - car has only 3 - two at the front and a flexi from the body to diff

clutch slave (will use a lada master - the 2300 cylinders are 'handed' and the RHD ones are NLA, lada ones are the same as the LHD ones and will just mount on an angle)


Fuel pump (already fitted)

engine mounts (125 style)

timing chain kit




I also have an order for a few bis from an overseas vendor, but its still 'processing',


and also trying to order a cheap ($30 euro) 125p/1500 waterpump off ebay (intead of paying 300 euro for the exact same thing listed as a 2300 one) seems to be a massive problem for the 'global shipping programme'.


anyway thats a wee bit closer to being able to move under its own power. assuming the cluch itselt isnt busted, the gearbox works and the brake pistons are not seized :)

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adding some more bits to the new parts stash




- diff axle seals

- cheap looking dizzy rotor and NOS MM points (caps seem to go for around $100!)

- random gaskets & seals

- rocker shaft things (were really cheap so bunged them in an order from an ebay seller)

- driveshaft guibo (love that word)

- 125P/FSO water pump (they run a 124/125 style pulley boss instead of the giant and heavy electro magnetic - will run the same set up as my 125 with the old sensors running an electric fan relay) - was also only 20 quid + free shipping to youshop :)

- cortina/escort thermostat from repco

thats not really the end of it tho - I grabbed a clutch master from EURON8 to try out as apparrently they work fine on the 'lesser' models in this family but on this car it needs to be short and stubby to fit in behind the brake booster.


this is as compared to the lada one so will have to keep looking.

Having the mounting holes in the wrong place will also put the fluid inlet hard against the booster mount too, and on these they are 'handed' and RHD ones are NLA :(




They do have the same 19.05mm bore as many other things inlcuding the lada, so rebuild kits or a rebore shouldnt be that hard to do.


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extra day off for Labour Day today, put to good use busting my ass in the shed for way less than minimum wage :)


phosphoric acid rust eater has done its thing its magical stuff, rinse/wipe, then a coat of rust converter to stop it coming back, and then ready for primer



set up the paint gun on the underside of the bonnet - its been a while!



i had to put a patch in the battery tray (you might be able to spot it as its smooth) and the rear of the RH headlight bucket, fix up all the masking i missed/had come loose and then:

first coat of primer! yay - looks way better already


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And in between coats and stuff i was also doing this:


pulled the oil pan off, 'baffle' destructivelly removed, the gas torch thing to soften it up and plenty of bashing, tap the baffle back into shape, tack the baffle back in, fill the holes  and here is the end product - one not quite so dented (and painted) oil pan) ready to go back on


The pink bits under the pan have also been investigated:


FIAT 2300, ORLY? It has HUGE counterweight lumps and surprisingly clean inside, oil pump screen was nice and clear.


Cam looks ok, piston skirts also look good - they have machined 'ribs' on them that are not worn at all and the bore itself feels good - i coundnt feel any difference with a finger nail between where the skirt and 'high' side (which does not travel to the base of the bore) travels


thrust bearings aew good, and took a random bearing cap off to have a gork, big end bearing looks brand new!


main bearing not so much, but still pretty good

all in all, pretty happy with that - much better that i could have hoped - i have not got a gasket set, nor do i have 180Euro for one, so i dont think ill be pulling the head.


Think i will leave it at that for know, other than the externals and adjustments and stuff and worry about freshening up the engine once its on the road (if required!)

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