yoeddynz Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Yay- I bet you checked no one was looking then did a little dance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 Bah, to hell with checking, I WOOHOO'd, and cut my best pelvic thrust dance moves in the middle of the street! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Slightly frustrating evening. Plugged in a pressure sensor to the fuel feed line, and got a reading of 57psi, which is far far too high. I double checked using a friends mechanical gauge, and it reads as 38psi, right on the money. I'll do some back to back testing tomorrow to figure out whats lying and whats true. Maybe those cheap ali-express sensors are crap... But I did test them on the fuel system on the racecar at uni, and they gave the same reading as the genuine Honeywell sensors there. However, intermittently the fuel pressure would drop immediately to zero when the fuel pump connector in the diagnostic port was removed, on both the sensor and the gauge. Most of the time it holds within a couple of PSI of pressure with the pump running though (whatever that pressure might be... I hate conflicting readings! If it wasn't too late to charge up my air compressor now I'd sort it) I'll try and find a reliable way to replicate this fault, as it points to a leak issue. Oooh, idea. I'll screw in the 150psi sensor I used for the compression test and see what that says. If I can get two out of three to agree that might help / frustrate me even more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Hmmmm, 150psi pressure sensor agrees with 100psi pressure sensor, 57psi. The mystery thickens. Super high fuel pressure, or super shitty sensors? I can see myself borrowing one of the expensive ones from uni tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Oh, durhhh, I'm a bit of a tard tonight and wasnt working it out properly. Everything agrees that fuel pressure is around 40psi. Forgot sensors have a 0.5V offset. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 I pulled the main EGI relay and got Laura to crank the engine over, and plenty of vapour seemed to to come out of the spark plug holes. That certainly points towards fuel leaking past the injectors. So tired though, will re-do that test tomorrow. Could possibly be oil from the oil injection system? It was quite a bit though... Hmmm. According to the USDM series 6 manual, the injectors are supplied power from the EGI relay, so that should have disabled them Bed time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Burning the late night premix oil I see.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Yeah dude, #rotanglyfe? Checking timing, without fucking a brand new set of plugs: Seemed spot on, white mark on tone wheel lined up with the notch on the front where the FSM says it should, so that's confirmed as being good. Going to take the upper intake manifold off now, and have a look at the injectors. Most of my tests seems to be pointing towards them having some sort of sealing issue. The fun continues! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 UIM is off, injectors are out. They show no overt signs of any leakage, which is disappointing, but doesn't rule anything out. I'll put new seals on them anyway, and maybe have them test again while they're out, because its a bit of a bitch of a job to do! Found plenty of stuffed, cracked and broken vacuum hoses, which is apparently pretty common. Took lots of pics of how it all came apart, and pretty much everything was already marked. Will replace all the hoses one by one I think. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 I'm trying to develop a plan here. Unfortunately even with how far I've torn into things today, there hasn't been a 'smoking gun' as to what is really wrong. I'm left with putting it back together, and hoping for the best. It's logical to perform a few fixes along the way though, I think. The loom is in pretty average shape, and Puddles is right, it doesn't look too hard to remove from the vehicle. I'll do this, inspect it, repair a few sections that look a bit abused and tone it out too. I need to gather a bit of into on the series 7's, as there really doesn't seem to be a huge amount floating around. There were plenty of cracked vacuum hoses in the turbo control system, so I'll replace all those too while I'm at it. Toning out the loom will let me create a map of what the solenoids in the 'black box' actually do, as I haven't been able to find a clear picture anywhere. I suspect the system is the same in operation to the earlier 'rats nest' models, but just with a pretty plastic manifold. If I can relate the two, I should be able to troubleshoot it more effectively. I've got those two error codes still showing up in the ECU, so I can investigate those at the same time. Summary of shit I'll be working on: Injector seals replaced, possibly have the injectors re-tested depending on cost / finding a sweet hookup. Loom out, stripped, repaired, recovered. Vacuum hoses replaced. All solenoids / sensors tested against factory specs. All along the way creating a better knowledge base of the series 7 stuff, so hopefully someone else can find it helpful in the future. There is to be none of the 'while I'm in there I could upgrade this...' performance bullshit... That road will lead to disaster. You'll all keep me honest right? My M.O. previously has been to tear shit apart, make it too big of a project, give up. Really need to not do that. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddles Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 nice one. I've only ever seen the early rat nest so i'm no help there. Theres a tricky white plug to unplug inside the cabin behind the heater box as well as the ecu plugs to get the loom out. The sub loom for alternator powersteer and other passenger side sensors is tiny and easy to manage. I'd take out the airpump, you will need to get creative with your drive belt, and the air mix valve on the lim. Its a massive thing can't miss it. Green brothers sell nifty block off plates for stuff. To run the sequential system you don't need alot, google simplified sequential conversion. Not sure how much you want to rip out. may i just say how lovely and simple my de-sequentialed fd is to work on and look at 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 You may have well found your problem if theres a bunch of vaccum hoses that are leaking. Will cause false map readings ie not reading enough vaccum whilst idleing thatll add extra fuel in that is dosnt require etc 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 the man may be right vac hose issue is a possibility . if that doesn't solve it ; i have had similar symptoms on other things which have been caused by leaking fuel pressure reg diaphragms , can be hard to find if they are only leaking under vacuum . really liking your systematic approach and full disclosure of findings (so many of these threads stop without people explaining what they found) keep up the good work 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Puddles - Yeah, I was looking at the air pump system and wondering if it could be removed. The Cat.Converter is still there, I could maybe remove that at the same time if there is an easily purchasable solution... But I'm not sure about warrants if I do that? Plus, you know, I'm a little older and actually slightly care about the environment... I could probably justify hollowing it out to myself by saying that I'm not using the car as a daily anyway... I had also wondered about how to run the drive belt afterwards. I'll ask Aunty Google and see what pops up. The Cat.Converter needs the air pump to operate correctly doesn't it? Because of the type of Cat. It is? Downtrail - Oh how I hope you prove to be correct! All four hoses on the two turbo control valves were cracked wide open, can't have been a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi808 Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Cracked/crap vacuum lines are famous for Batty issues. It's worse in a S6, and took till S8 till Mazda sorted it out. Use good quality hose to replace it. It will save you sooooooooooooooooo many headaches at a later date. EDIT: rip the cat out. No worries for WOFs. Small worries about environment, but if your that way inclined buying a rotary was probably the wrong move haha! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddles Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 you can run a short belt with small contact on the wp pulley, or an idler, or oversize pulleys, its up to you. You are correct that the cat needs the airpump to work, so you gotta take out the cat too. Theres so much stuff to remove on these motors i could go on and on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 I'd be tempted to sort out the vacuum hoses, take the cat out, put some fresh plugs in, tow start it, and see what happens. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Yeah, just the bits I've mentioned above for the moment. None of it can hurt, hopefully I'll find something interesting along the way. I think I've found the two dud control solenoids which are throwing codes. I'm pretty sure they wouldn't have been causing any of the problems with idling and fuel usage, but they need to be fixed nonetheless. There are two valves in the black solenoid box (only on series 7 and 8's) that measure open circuit, and do nothing when given 12v. This black solenoid manifold/rack thing actually looks like it comes apart, but suspect I'll have to make up some sort of tool/jig to sort it. The individual valves within all look like they're the same part. I've bid on another one from trademe with an eye to opening it up and hoping it has at least two good solenoids in it. Should learn how to open them, and get some spares, without fucking the original one from the car. Maybe I should recondition a bunch, make up an adaptor harness and sell them to the yanks for a massive profit? hah. Back to uni tomorrow, more work on FSAE car, and I have a report to write also, so will have to halt the fun for a few days . Alex, sort me some carbs? . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 I still have the SU HIF turbo carb I bought off you as a spare for the 12a turbo. Possibly a bit small in throat size... (plus I am eying it up for my Viva wagon as thinking of doing a huckery turbo setup on the 1200) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Wow. This thread reminds me why I've always been drawn to old shit. You obviously have lots of smarts about these modern machines Zac. I would be holding my head, and rocking back and forth in the corner by now...... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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