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ta63-1uzze's1972 mini clubman Discussion


ta63-1uzze

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ah so many moons ago i found this whilst looking at ditching the points/condenser (rain was in issue when driving on the motorway) . 

 

this is going back a few years so it is stretching my memory a little. this is the link that i found many years ago which set me on my ignition discovery

 

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11178

 

so the short story is nice fat spark , no spark scatter at higher rpm's , an actual sealing cap to keep the water out . and no more constant points/condenser s servicing. 

 

the regular addition of electronic ignition normally still uses the old worn out advance plate/weights/springs etc . this conversion is just newer and swap able with just light modification , so its just easier and supposedly better than adding electronic setup  . i found it took me about ten mins to cut the dissy down to fit the drive dog and mount , and about 15 to modify the advance plate, but i haven't tested it out thoroughly yet . i have had it running and it works but i have not driven on it  yet as i found oil leak and had gearbox issues. 

 

since then programmable ignition has come out, but at a few hundy bucks i think they are an expensive way to go, not to undermine the quality or benefits they are still very good  , but as you can see from the link this conversion is old as , i bought the dissy like ten years ago, and only now in the last 6 months i have done the work and got it in and fitted and running. 

 

i am waiting on fuel pump hose and spacer plate then its full steam ahead . so so close now i cant wait ! 

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another common conversion is using the honda dissy, they have coil inside so its even less clutter in the engine bay  , less one ignition lead . but they are a bit more bulky . i don't know much about it to be honest. i dont know how close the ignition curve is either , and its harder and harder to get dissys tested now'er days because the test bench gear is getting long in the tooth. 

 

i would love to get a bit more into the older tech , its fascinating to learn about , its just hard to find people who know about it or have functioning tester because its just not how we do things any more. 

if anyone knows a shop that still spins up dissys i would love to know, i have a few that i want to test to find out the curve and so i can legitimately test the modifications i have done to the Nissan one 

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choice , I searched for ages only to come up with nothing .  ,so thanks heaps ,that has made my day, now I can get it tested and be sure I'm not going to kill my engine prematurely.

 

now to dig up the old dissy so I can compare the 2 . hopefully they aren't to indifferent

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Hi great project you got going there, a good link about the dizzy mod here

 

http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/hitachi.pdf

 

theres a link at the end to the 123 unit very nice $$$ though

 

I found this mod close to 10 years ago can't find text on that but I had the chance then to get 2 dizzies a D4R80-08 pulsar I think and a D4R83-36 think sentra, the info I found back then said one was good for a standard engine and the other more suited the modified one not sure which one is which now. Fast forward to a few weeks back finaly draged from storage I bench tested a 1275 alegro engine with the pulsar one it runs fine the motor has a DHLA 45 Dellorto on it and when tested no vacuum hoses on and don't know how the dizzy curve will work out as can't road test for some time yet I just wanted to test the mod. In the link info they say cut the swing arm off turn down or file the base to fit the mini clamp I traced the mini clamp on to some sheet and included extra metal for the swing arm and a sloted hole with a bolt and a recangle nut that rocks when tighten and locks against the block a heck of a lot easier to adjust the timing than the mini clamp. Also thinking of un screwing the vacuum unit and redrilling the locking hole 180 deg so the connecting pipe comes out away from the engine.

 

now the important bit yours

 

1) the link pics of the mod and my running dizzy have the vacuum unit 180 deg from yours

 

2) mine would only fire when I first tried it and by what I can see in the pic you just may have made the same opps as me, us mini nuts have firing order 1-3-4-2 brain implanted but the dizzy turns anti clockwise so looks like cylinders 2 and 3 ht leads are backwards and would hate that to seal your thunder and stop a first crank fireup for your rebuild.

 

Cheers may your build go well

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ah , sheeezzzzzz , i missed that  , silly me .  will have a look tomorrow when i get a chance. thanks for the heads up

 

good spotting   : P 

 

im not running vacuum to the vacuum canister as side draft wont supply a smooth vacuum supply :due to each runner not being connected so this makes a pulse rather than a smooth supply (so i have been told) . but that's OK im not to bothered , the canister is probably got holes in it anyway , its so old and has been waiting for so long for me to get of my ass and use it .  

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey mate cool clubman, they look so good with wide wheels and flares. What did you do with the metro brakes? Use mini hubs or just metro hubs with mk1 metro ball joints? Cheers

 

Hay matt, sorry I didn’t reply I totally missed this comment, yeah so there is a bit of trickery to get the metro shit to work,

 

* get the mini disk brake hub keep ball joints, steering arms etc. all mini , this keeps the right suspension angles and keeps you safely on the road.

​*get metro outer cv, the one that goes into the hub . I cant remember if you keep the mini or metro wheel bearing, mmmmm, ill get back to you on that one.

* get the conversion bolts from mini spares, the metro caliper is metric and the mini hub thread is imperial so you need this special caliper bolts to make the to fit correctly and become great friends

* get a brake hose conversion kit, also from mini spares, this makes the standard 2 hose (metro) into a single for mini. It looks funny as but it’s the easiest way to get past this problem.

* You need the metro drive flanges as this sets the offset for the metro brake rotor; this sets the rotor in the right position for the caliper

* depending on your wheels you may need to have the face of the drive flange machined as the metro flange has bumps to locate the wheel that is in the way (wheel won’t sit flush against the flange)

 

I have been slack over the last month and I haven't finished my mini so I can’t tell yet if I need to much around with the brake bias from front to back, some say I will and some say it will be fine, easy to just go to a local mechanic, throw the car on the brake rollers and let them tell you if they are ok for the road. They will know because they will or won’t pass wof standards

If you are going to do this conversion its actually very easy, sounds like a lot of stuff but it’s very simple once you get all the parts in front of you , makes allot more sense .

Let me know if you want more info I can take some pictures or some shit, help you out: P

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