Goat Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hellowe, My Hiace has a BHG. Has mayo oil and oily water. Plan to fix this soon. But want it nice and clean once it has been put back together. I had completly flushed the system a few months ago to get all the yucky sedimenty stuff out of it, (which probably caused it to overheat a bit) However, the water still has some grubby stuff in it, and i assume grubby water in the system has cause the thermostat to foul and not open all the way. Question is, what is the best way to flush all this BHG water out of the engine/heater etc, so when i put it all back together, my new coolant wont become oily scum again once its been around the engine a few times. If you know what i mean. Anyone had any experience? Chair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 When it's all apart run the garden hose through the heater core etc. It will be worth pulling the radiator out and taking it to a radiator shop to get it rodded out. When it is all back together there will probably still be some oily stuff in there. You can get cooling system de-oiler from bnt etc, I think it is pretty much a water based degreaser. I'd run it up a few times without the thermostat with the de-oiler in until the oil bubbles don't come to the top any more, then flush it all again with the garden hose, then put a new thermostat in with new coolant. If your new thermostat is a triden, bench test it before you put it in by running boiling water from the jug over the fat part. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Yes I'd replace all the rubber hoses, pull the thermostat and then use a chemical flush about 10 times until it runs clear. Also undo the block drains and flush heater as said. I have a cheap flush tool that is great, you hook up the garden hose and compressed air so you can blast through a head of water. Yea also good advice with those thermostats, so many of those cheap shitty ones don't work out of the box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Teyarda genuine thermostats are pretty well priced. Tridon ones are crap at the moment for realz. defo get radiator checked out - an often overlooked part of a BHG Job. Could've been the root cause! Alledgedly Toyota temperature gauges are super un-sensitive. heaps of 4wd dicks add a resistor pack to make the whole thing more senstive apparently. Yours may be a bit early for it to be relevant but it's an interesting thought nonetheless. http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/tempgauge.htm may help to know something's actually going on before it gets proper dodgey. edit - for some reason that link comes up dead for me now but then it worked again? God knows. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 Chair dudes. Where does one get this de-oiler from? Radiator is pretty good nick. When i gave it its original flush (cos it boiled over at art deco weekend) it was absolutely full with rusty silt. After flush it was clean and free flowing. And van stays cool with no thermostat. Doesnt even get near operating temp even with massive inclines etc. So cooling system is spec. BHG cos factory temp gauge lies. Sits at normal. All the time. haha. Neglected cooling system with a leaking cap and full of sludge got it hot. And gauge just said normal. Thats why it bhg. Had a new trident thermostat after flush out that chooched out after 2 weeks. Hah. What a piece of shite. Currently not running one. Any of you parts dudes able to give me a price on a toyodda stz? (its an 84 YH61 with a 3y) Cheers guys. Also, which leads me on to another question, is it possible to repair a temp gauge? It works sweet, it just likes to "stick" at normal position. (this is where it sits when its at temp too so makes it super hard to tell if its stuck or not) A good bang will free it, and if its hot, it will move to the new temp. But if its behaving, it just stays in the same place. Makes it very hard to tell if its stuck or if everything is behaving.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Hmm I think it would be a crazy specialist jerb to fix the factory gauge (if the problem is more than the sender) as they have those tiny wingdings in them. Maybe run aftermarket for now and find another cluster. I would be wary of that radiator, has it been rodded and tanked after the gunk/BHG? I'm bordeline OCD these days but I would 100% change all hoses and inspect/change the water pump, rod the radiator and then run any of the over the counter flushes about 10 times until it was mint (add the flush, drive around for a week then clean it all out again with the blow down tool thing I mentioned). The normal flushes are just a water based caustic degreaser shit that should grab the oil and suspend it in the solution. I do this with even newer cars that have had poor maintenance and soo much crap comes out if you catch the water and have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 Cheers Spence, Haven't fixed BHG yet. Got all the bits ready to roll though. Have already put in a new water pump, and am rocking an after market temp gauge. Although that reads way too high (reads 100 degrees c when the temp sender housing is 80degrees c And factory gauge reads normal. So have put some resistors inline to bring it back to normal operating temps. Though i feel that this is a bit dodgy. ) Have new hoses to rock for when i replace the head gasket. Will get radiator rodded while its out. Would supercheap sell flush? or is it a bit more specialised than that? Keen to get the cooling system bullet proof for many years of trouble free motoring. hah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 I have got the de-oiler from BNT in the past. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 flick me the radiator when you bring the head to me to be planned and vac tested etc does this smoke at all? could do valve stem seals while we are at it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Yea may as well do a lush up on that head while you are there. Yea I think the supercheap and repco flushes are just overpriced crap (probably like 30c worth of degreaser mixed with some caustic type stuff to remove rust scale), but they will work OK. Make sure you get the block drains open also, be careful though as they can be welded too the block haha. Maybe google some recipies for rad flushing, people use mild acids which work the best on rust and shit (probably not so much the oil), they key to whatever you use is getting it all out again so that's why I use compressed air following the water. Just whatever you do follow it up several times until you are draining clear water, its about the best you can do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 Thanks dudes. Al - I ordered a head set. So that should come with valve stem seals etc. And nay, this motor was super legit apart from BHG. Doesn't smoke at all etc. Will just find some stuff Spence and rinse and repeat until it stays clear. Is there a good place to get heater hose from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 sweet. well. we will do them anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Check the needle on the gauge its self isn't bent back against the face of the dial. I know my ute one is for the speedo as I can never go faster than 40km/h haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Check the needle on the gauge its self isn't bent back against the face of the dial. I know my ute one is for the speedo as I can never go faster than 40km/h hahaNissan? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 You want to use that BNT De-Oiler, comes in a one litre pack. I've used it on modern Euro diesels that shit their heat exchanger oil coolers. Makes a mess and they have that separate header tank system, so pretty intricate. But it works real good, I'd buy two bottles and use it twice if it's quite bad. It's more of a detergent. Follow instructions. I agree with Spencer in regard to hoses etc, on that age of vehicle. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 I'd have access to another head and heater pipe (if it has one) before starting job, they corrode away pretty bad and last few I've done have needed new heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Yea get some of that BNT shit for sure, I would flush it with a few sorts of products TBH because it will be a mess. You need something to get the oil out, then some kind of mild acid to clean/convert the rust. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Sure is lol common I take it? Nissan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 radiators may look sweet after a flush,but we had a truck at work that kept overheating with a 'sweet' rad (rad shop said it looked good) but our mechanic insisted it gets properly looked at,took it apart and it was blocked as fuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Dishwasher tabs through the cooling system clean shit pretty hard. flush the fuck out of it with a hose, and t/stat out. Then throw a few in, and run it at 2500 for a while. Allow to cool and drain out. then flush 6 ways to sunday again. Refit t/stat, new coolant, and do skids. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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