VKzac Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Discuss/ Have some yarns about my car with me here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VKzac Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 VK build ups 'build' thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48945-vkzacs-1985-vk-commodore/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Nice mate - sell me your Saas wheel and boss if you don't like it - I reckon it looks choice. Also there is a guy on here with a VH sedan who has just finished building his one up and I see it is for sale on Trademe and there is a 5speed gearbox of his sitting in Napier that he was going to fit. I'm guessing he is no longer putting the gearbox in if the car is for sale. Will dig up his build thread for you and you can get in touch with him, Also lower it on Dobinson super lows and those wheels will look not half bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 This chappie here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44628-terminal220s-1982-vh-sle-sedan/ This is his for sale on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/holden/auction-881041517.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VKzac Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Nice mate - sell me your Saas wheel and boss if you don't like it - I reckon it looks choice. Also there is a guy on here with a VH sedan who has just finished building his one up and I see it is for sale on Trademe and there is a 5speed gearbox of his sitting in Napier that he was going to fit. I'm guessing he is no longer putting the gearbox in if the car is for sale. Will dig up his build thread for you and you can get in touch with him, Also lower it on Dobinson super lows and those wheels will look not half bad. Probably wouldn't part with the saas(y) wheel...yet... until I get something I would really like (flat momo suede wheel). As for the boss (bawss) kit, I've only had it for like 3 days hahaha. This chappie here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44628-terminal220s-1982-vh-sle-sedan/ This is his for sale on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/holden/auction-881041517.htm Yeah I've seen this blokes build thread, much score on the YT head!!!!. And if he's in Manawatu area, it would be very easy for a family member to get for me! Thanks for the suggestion! I shall ask him... Loving your build thread too mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VKzac Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 This chappie here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44628-terminal220s-1982-vh-sle-sedan/ This is his for sale on trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/holden/auction-881041517 Hold on, don't I need a VK Borg Warner M76 as the VK is a 202 EST Black motor, and I heard that the EST models had a sensor of some sort on the bell housing ? 10/10 Not sure on this though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 ZAC!!!!! Welcome aboard!!!! Sweet write up about the history of your car. Can't beat one with history like that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Ditch that EST - its fucking shit and will just cause you a world of hurt on the side of the road at 3am on the way home from Coromandel with a pound of weed in the boot. Get a VH Commy distributor but they are fairly spendy - like a couple hundred bucks or more now.Installing a points distributor is even easier and cheaper. Do it at least until you can find a VH distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 I am going to ditch the EST as well on my 86 factory manual, you only need a vk flywheel if you didnt want to ditch it as they have protruding dowels which the magnetic pickup triggers the spark. Very nice car mate, mine //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48894-efi-lcs-1986-vk-commodore/ Remember YT for 12-port is very expensive unless you are lucky enough to find an older cast iron one but these heads can have some mild head work and stock flow close to the mighty XU-1 heads. HP is easier and cheaper to get for these old irons than almost any other engine around. If going manual I advise not to use the stock 5 speed as they are shit and unless you are very careful will break or lock or destroy synchros or crunch in gears or..... I am aiming for a healthier output but will work on torque not hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VKzac Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Ditch that EST - its fucking shit and will just cause you a world of hurt on the side of the road at 3am on the way home from Coromandel with a pound of weed in the boot. Get a VH Commy distributor but they are fairly spendy - like a couple hundred bucks or more now. Installing a points distributor is even easier and cheaper. Do it at least until you can find a VH distributor. Hahaha at least you had the goods on your break down! Is there any better options regarding the distributor ? I am going to ditch the EST as well on my 86 factory manual, you only need a vk flywheel if you didnt want to ditch it as they have protruding dowels which the magnetic pickup triggers the spark. Very nice car mate, mine //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48894-efi-lcs-1986-vk-commodore/ Remember YT for 12-port is very expensive unless you are lucky enough to find an older cast iron one but these heads can have some mild head work and stock flow close to the mighty XU-1 heads. HP is easier and cheaper to get for these old irons than almost any other engine around. If going manual I advise not to use the stock 5 speed as they are shit and unless you are very careful will break or lock or destroy synchros or crunch in gears or..... I am aiming for a healthier output but will work on torque not hp. Nice ride mate. Regarding the factory 5 speed, I already know all the risks about using the M76, but I've decided I'm still going to pursue it simply due to the fact that doing it all factory spec is legal and doesn't require certification. For the time being, I just really want a manual and have the choice when to change gears, also having 2 more gears will be much better and more economical! Yeah I've read up about how they get more power into the 202, It's such a restrictive engine in the terms of air flow, more flow into the head = better performance, and you can really notice how restrictive it is when you plant your foot (ie, much noise, very little go). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Sounds fair enough, you going with factory cable clutch or after market hydraulic? Hey just thought of another thing you may want to do while going manual. I did this a few years back and it made a difference in get up and go and with the VK still a relative lightweight should help you. Oh and include a dowel in the flywheel or you may have issues if you plan to rev them hard. In the Video the last flywheel which turned has the dowel and the EST pickup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VKzac Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Sounds fair enough, you going with factory cable clutch or after market hydraulic? Hey just thought of another thing you may want to do while going manual. I did this a few years back and it made a difference in get up and go and with the VK still a relative lightweight should help you. Oh and include a dowel in the flywheel or you may have issues if you plan to rev them hard. In the Video the last flywheel which turned has the dowel and the EST pickup Will stick with cable for the time being. Was the difference that big? What's the cost side of it like? Yeah I feel like the 202 doesn't love being revved much past 3500 rpm, but then again, It is auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 It should rev to 4500 ok but they were never overly responsive but that can change depending how much you want to spend While the flywheel is out is the time but it depends what you are after as it will add revs and make the engine more lively. Can't remember the cost. These engines can be made to easily rev 6000 but safer to stay under this as they suffer from harmonics at 6000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal220 Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Heya VKzac, First up welcome and fine choice in motor vechile! In a moment of weakness I was gunna sell my VH but I have seen the light and am going to keep her as well as continue to improve her. You may be aware that I am about to plop a Borgy 5 speed in mine and convert it to electric fans......I will add a little more detail and pics to my build thread than I would have if you like as it may be of interest or benfit to you. I may have got my hands on a supra five speed complete with Master, driveshafts, adapters etc that is currently bolted up to a 186. If this deal works out I will pull the borgy back out and may be able to help you if you are in the market for one and/or yolks etc. With regards to flywheels, I have been told by an old salt who used to race his VK (the guy i got my pedalbox, clutch cable and driveshafts from) that if you can, run a starfire flywheel. Apprently they are much lighter, bolt straight in and make a pretty descent impact. So thats what I am doing, if I had some bathroom scales I would go and weigh my one to see the exact figures..... maybe ill take it to a mates place. Last thing and anyone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you will still "legally" be required to get it certified if you change the transmition from auto to manual. You stated further up the thread that one of the reasons for staying with the borgy was because its legal and wont require a cert. Might want to double check that as I would hate for you to get a nasty suprise down the track. Im putting one in because i am a lil lazy, dont have heaps of money to throw at it and have also heard some good feedback on the boxes and am hoping that some of the horror stories are from abused and poorly maintained ones....... Guess we will find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 I believe you dont require a cert to go from auto to manual as long as you use all factory components and don't modify anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/knowledge_base.html Does an auto to manual gearbox conversion require certification? Yes, all gearbox conversions require certification as the braking system has usually been affected with alteration or modification to the brake pedal-box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 This is my understanding of it also. I have converted several of my cars to manual and always used all factory components, never had a problem. Some cars have differences in the chassis between auto and manual so using all factory components isn't always possible. From the thresh-hold document: Miscellaneous Items (13-1 Engine & drive train) LVV Certification is always required for any engine or drive-train-related modifications unless specified below: (if modification does not appear below, always refer to LVV Certifier) Gearbox substitution: The OE gearbox cross-member has not been heated, cut, or welded; and the OE gearbox cross-member mounting to the OE body or chassis members is unchanged; and no replacement gearbox cross-member is used; and the OE drive-shaft(s) is un-modified; and no substantial modifications have occurred to the floor or gearbox tunnel area, other than provision for gear-shift mechanism. I'm sure Clint will correct if I'm wrong but I take that to basically mean that if you can unbolt the old then bolt on all factory (OE) parts and the only modification you have to do is make a hole for the stick then you're OK to continue without cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/knowledge_base.html Interesting. I guess they're just covering bases now then as the above stuff seem to contradict that? Could be the terminology of OE that's the difference perhaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenTC Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Zac mate, need me to take some half decent photos of it for you? It's brown but its not actually that ugly in real life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal220 Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Hmm....this is interesting. And yup it directtly contridicts its self. Might be worth a call as I assumed I would be up for another cert. dum dum duuuum! To the phone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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