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VKzac's 1985 VK Commodore


VKzac

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Nice mate - sell me your Saas wheel and boss if you don't like it - I reckon it looks choice.

 

Also there is a guy on here with a VH sedan who has just finished building his one up and I see it is for sale on Trademe and there is a 5speed gearbox of his sitting in Napier that he was going to fit. I'm guessing he is no longer putting the gearbox in if the car is for sale. Will dig up his build thread for you and you can get in touch with him,

 

Also lower it on Dobinson super lows and those wheels will look not half bad.

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Nice mate - sell me your Saas wheel and boss if you don't like it - I reckon it looks choice.

 

Also there is a guy on here with a VH sedan who has just finished building his one up and I see it is for sale on Trademe and there is a 5speed gearbox of his sitting in Napier that he was going to fit. I'm guessing he is no longer putting the gearbox in if the car is for sale. Will dig up his build thread for you and you can get in touch with him,

 

Also lower it on Dobinson super lows and those wheels will look not half bad.

 

Probably wouldn't part with the saas(y) wheel...yet... until I get something I would really like (flat momo suede wheel). As for the boss (bawss) kit, I've only had it for like 3 days hahaha. 

 

 

Yeah I've seen this blokes build thread, much score on the YT head!!!!. And if he's in Manawatu area, it would be very easy for a family member to get for me! Thanks for the suggestion! I shall ask him... 

 

Loving your build thread too mate! 

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 Hold on, don't I need a VK Borg Warner M76 as the VK is a 202 EST Black motor, and I heard that the EST models had a sensor of some sort on the bell housing ? 

 

10/10 Not sure on this though 

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Ditch that EST - its fucking shit and will just cause you a world of hurt on the side of the road at 3am on the way home from Coromandel with a pound of weed in the boot.

 

Get a VH Commy distributor but they are fairly spendy - like a couple hundred bucks or more now.

Installing a points distributor is even easier and cheaper. Do it at least until you can find a VH distributor.

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I am going to ditch the EST as well on my 86 factory manual, you only need a vk flywheel if you didnt want to ditch it as they have protruding dowels which the magnetic pickup triggers the spark.

 

Very nice car mate, mine //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48894-efi-lcs-1986-vk-commodore/

Remember YT for 12-port is very expensive unless you are lucky enough to find an older cast iron one but these heads can have some mild head work and stock flow close to the mighty XU-1 heads. 

HP is easier and cheaper to get for these old irons than almost any other engine around.

 

If going manual I advise not to use the stock 5 speed as they are shit and unless you are very careful will break or lock or destroy synchros or crunch in gears or.....

I am aiming for a healthier output but will work on torque not hp.

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Ditch that EST - its fucking shit and will just cause you a world of hurt on the side of the road at 3am on the way home from Coromandel with a pound of weed in the boot.

 

Get a VH Commy distributor but they are fairly spendy - like a couple hundred bucks or more now.

Installing a points distributor is even easier and cheaper. Do it at least until you can find a VH distributor.

 

Hahaha at least you had the goods on your break down! 

 

Is there any better options regarding the distributor ?

 

I am going to ditch the EST as well on my 86 factory manual, you only need a vk flywheel if you didnt want to ditch it as they have protruding dowels which the magnetic pickup triggers the spark.

 

Very nice car mate, mine //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48894-efi-lcs-1986-vk-commodore/

Remember YT for 12-port is very expensive unless you are lucky enough to find an older cast iron one but these heads can have some mild head work and stock flow close to the mighty XU-1 heads. 

HP is easier and cheaper to get for these old irons than almost any other engine around.

 

If going manual I advise not to use the stock 5 speed as they are shit and unless you are very careful will break or lock or destroy synchros or crunch in gears or.....

I am aiming for a healthier output but will work on torque not hp.

 Nice ride mate.

Regarding the factory 5 speed, I already know all the risks about using the M76, but I've decided I'm still going to pursue it simply due to the fact that doing it all factory spec is legal and doesn't require certification. For the time being, I just really want a manual and have the choice when to change gears, also having 2 more gears will be much better and more economical!  :)

 

Yeah I've read up about how they get more power into the 202, It's such a restrictive engine in the terms of air flow, more flow into the head = better performance, and you can really notice how restrictive it is when you plant your foot (ie, much noise, very little go). 

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Sounds fair enough, you going with factory cable clutch or after market hydraulic?

Hey just thought of another thing you may want to do while going manual. I did this a few years back and it made a difference in get up and go and with the VK still a relative lightweight should help you. Oh and include a dowel in the flywheel or you may have issues if you plan to rev them hard.

 

In the Video the last flywheel which turned has the dowel and the EST pickup

 

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Sounds fair enough, you going with factory cable clutch or after market hydraulic?

Hey just thought of another thing you may want to do while going manual. I did this a few years back and it made a difference in get up and go and with the VK still a relative lightweight should help you. Oh and include a dowel in the flywheel or you may have issues if you plan to rev them hard.

 

In the Video the last flywheel which turned has the dowel and the EST pickup

 

Will stick with cable for the time being. 

 

Was the difference that big? What's the cost side of it like?

Yeah I feel like the 202 doesn't love being revved much past 3500 rpm, but then again, It is auto 

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It should rev to 4500 ok but they were never overly responsive but that can change depending how much you want to spend

While the flywheel is out is the time but it depends what you are after as it will add revs and make the engine more lively. Can't remember the cost. 

 

These engines can be made to easily rev 6000 but safer to stay under this as they suffer from harmonics at 6000.

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  • 1 month later...

Heya VKzac,

 

First up welcome and fine choice in motor vechile!

 

In a moment of weakness I was gunna sell my VH but I have seen the light and am going to keep her as well as continue to improve her.

You may be aware that I am about to plop a Borgy 5 speed in mine and convert it to electric fans......I will add a little more detail and pics to my build thread than I would have if you like as it may be of interest or benfit to you.

 

I may have got my hands on a supra five speed complete with Master, driveshafts, adapters etc that is currently bolted up to a 186. If this deal works out I will pull the borgy back out and may be able to help you if you are in the market for one and/or yolks etc.

With regards to flywheels, I have been told by an old salt who used to race his VK (the guy i got my pedalbox, clutch cable and driveshafts from) that if you can, run a starfire flywheel. Apprently they are much lighter, bolt straight in and make a pretty descent impact. So thats what I am doing, if I had some bathroom scales I would go and weigh my one to see the exact figures..... maybe ill take it to a mates place.

 

Last thing and anyone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you will still "legally" be required to get it certified if you change the transmition from auto to manual. You stated further up the thread that one of the reasons for staying with the borgy was because its legal and wont require a cert. Might want to double check that as I would hate for you to get a nasty suprise down the track. Im putting one in because i am a lil lazy, dont have heaps of money to throw at it and have also heard some good feedback on the boxes and am hoping that some of the horror stories are from abused and poorly maintained ones....... Guess we will find out!

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This is my understanding of it also.

I have converted several of my cars to manual and always used all factory components, never had a problem.

Some cars have differences in the chassis between auto and manual so using all factory components isn't always possible.

From the thresh-hold document:

Miscellaneous Items

(13-1 Engine & drive train)

LVV Certification is always required for any engine or drive-train-related modifications unless specified below: (if modification

does not appear below, always refer to LVV Certifier)

Gearbox substitution:

 The OE gearbox cross-member has not been heated, cut, or welded; and

 the OE gearbox cross-member mounting to the OE body or chassis members is

unchanged; and

 no replacement gearbox cross-member is used; and

 the OE drive-shaft(s) is un-modified; and

 no substantial modifications have occurred to the floor or gearbox tunnel area, other

than provision for gear-shift mechanism.

I'm sure Clint will correct if I'm wrong but I take that to basically mean that if you can unbolt the old then bolt on all factory (OE) parts and the only modification you have to do is make a hole for the stick then you're OK to continue without cert.

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