marcro Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 The centre roof is relatively flat having only a small amount of fall to the edges. This area will house the solar panels and solar array for water heating. At one stage I did think it would make a great deck but its pretty high and we have decided best not create the risk of a fall. The steel work was battened and 19mm plywood fastened over the top, more structure was added to reduce the plywood panel sizes. The ends had 150mm up stands added that were coved using epoxy resin and microfibres, this will water proof the ends and keep water away from the cladding. The edges were capped in teak shaped to accept the side cladding and provide a drip rail for water coming of the roof. The finished area was then saturated in thinned epoxy resin. When dry and fully cured a waterproof membrane was applied using a brush.......interesting product......like trying to paint with margarine, I finally managed a suitable film thickness after 3 coats. This stuff did not apply that well, was messy and was no fun!!! The area has since been coated with a high quality acrylic enamel to protect the membrane, followed all of the instructions on this so I am hoping that it will all last!! Not sure I would recommend this approach to any one else as I find myself realizing that a proper synthetic membrane material would have been a better choice.......time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 We tried using a brush on rubberised paint. Aussie product and costly. designed for roofs. It started to split from the sun plus the ply would expand and contract slightly I figure. We ended up covering entire roof with butynol. Was really well priced if you find a friendly plumber with leftovers from jobs. Used the proper industrial strength contact adhesive and the covering is working so well. Fit and forget. I figure that in maybe 10-15 years time the sun might break it down. maybe not. but will be so easy to just recover. Our centre section gets very slippary over winter so Im thinking about building a stainless and timber safari roof over it. This will help stop the harsh sun in summer too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 All of the joins in the timber were tapped with the manufacturers rubberized tapes prior to application of product.......time will tell!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Did you get this stuff, Alex? http://www.proguardcoatings.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatt20 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 the old man done a big section of the roof on his house with butynol bout 20 years ago and its still sweet, shit is magic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 If you drive a Viva, minds will be blown 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Began the exterior lining by applying a builders wrap, the stuff used was a little expensive but very wind proof. This meant staples held it in position easily without damage. The material is a reinforced synthetic breathable material. The only down side was its limited exposure time to UV etc, this meant that sections were dealt with rather than covering the whole structure first. Exterior cladding chosen is Alpine Shadow Line, the stuff is 12mm thick, grooved at 100mm, and spirit treated. One of the reasons for choosing this product was that it is made in NZ using plantation grown NZ radiata pine. A custom flashing was made to ensure rain water doesn't find its way under the flooring, I don/t want water getting trapped between the truck deck and internal flooring as it would just sit there. I began painting as soon as the ply had weathered for a couple of weeks, first coat to seal up the grain. Windows have not been considered as yet so no attempt to place or size them has been undertaken, the big thing is to get weather proof as soon as possible. Where sheet heights were greater than 2400mm I chose to join at the bottom of the sheet rather than the top.....much easier to work on, much easier to make sure its properly sealed up. Corner flashing's have been done using lite gauge galvanized angle. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 The end of the cladding for the truck is in sight...................shame I've run out of plywood!, and so it seems has the supplier. The ply I'm using comes from the South Island so I guess I am in a holding pattern. The slide out holes involve custom making sections of cladding, hopefully when the slide outs are clad the grove lines will all match up. Even the smallest pieces present problems, access is the issue here as it involves a ladder and height. Along way down........definitely not OSH complaint. The thread has now caught up to actual progress. The plan is to push on and get the truck weather proof as soon as possible. Next jobs will see front and rear floors made and fitted along with the cladding and installation of push outs. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 hey,was just wondering how you will tilt the cab of the truck forward to work on the motor etc? our trucks at work do this, I used to use butynol when i was plumbing its good shit but doesn't like to be streched i.e cut round pipes.good luck with your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 The top deck section above the cab has a lifting floor to allow clearance, at least that's how Alex's one works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 The floor above the cab has been built but is yet to be fitted, it will hinge along the rear edge and will be lifted using a light weight block and tackle arrangement that will clip on to a flush ring set into the floor and a "screw in" eye bolt in the ceiling. If it all works properly the cab will have sufficient clearance to tilt in the usual manner. The mock up worked so I am confident.......i think!. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Have been battling the weather of late so progress has slowed. Have managed to complete the bulk of the external cladding leaving only the push outs to do. There is a small section of cladding across the rear of the front loft that has been purposely left of to allow for the forward loft floor to slide on in. The rear loft has begun to be closed in with the floor being fitted. The overhead panel in the doorway will be angled to allow head height for going down the stairs. The steps have begun to take shape, each section of the stair will have a lift up tread for storage of footwear etc. The plan is to clad the steps with a decorative timber that will be varnished. The tarps just don't work so I have fitted temporary panels for weather proofing reasons until I get round to dealing with the push outs. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Progress has definitely slowed, the weather has been wet !! typical Northland weather. As is the way the holiday weekend came with high expectations for jobs to be achieved but produced only one day where outside work could be done. Started by finishing the back door steps, now finished in teak, the steps will have a clear finish. The steps have two separate compartments accessed by lifting the stair tread, ideal storage location for shoes and boots. The treads will have a non skid material added for safety. The dreaded forward floor was built some time ago, its a pretty significant structure in its own right as it spans 2.5 x 2.8 metres and will need to carry reasonable weight unsupported, the floor is hollow with insulation fitted within the voids. Here's the floor, painted the bottom in anticipation of fitting it. PS looks quite insignificant in this photo! The next step is to lift into position, I have been avoiding this for some time as it is heavy and requires lifting on to the roof followed by sliding through a section of unclad exterior followed by lowering into position. The lift was executed using a front end loader on a tractor and proved rather uneventful in the end, lowered into position the fit was perfect with the right amount of clearance for interior linings, the clearance is required in order to clear the linings when lifted up. Nice close fit over the cab. Next step is to build the floor infill that has the hinge line on it, then I will be able to check cab clearance while working on the trucks engine. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I bet it already feels cosy in there! At least you dont have to deal with cold winter mornings... just water water water. Its really fun watching someone else build one of these. Please more people build them ! One of our pop out roofs has developed a tiny leak and the Rimu window frames have suffered from the sunshine so come summertime we need to do a bit of modifying. Actually quite looking forward to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 The front loft floor has now had the structural timber beam added that carries the hinges. This to a large extent stays in position of its own accord when in use due to the weight and lifting force exerted on the hinge line. Given this I have fastened it into position using only high tensile screws. The moment of truth, borrowed the mainsheet from my yacht to give it a try. The final choice of block will be much lighter and of a side by side configuration so as to maximise the available lift. Initial lift shows everything to work as expected. Have begun the interior floor………..weather has driven work inside. Began by battening up and adding stiffeners where needed. 40mm Insulation was then added before the 12 mm plywood flooring substrate was laid on top, remembered to cut holes through the steel deck for sink waste and plumbing to pass through. The floor will have a southern beech solid timber overlay added later, this will provide the decorative finish as well as stiffen the plywood substrate. The current rain has proven the structure to be rain resistant…..so far……..small consolation for what has been a crappy period of weather. Next………….more floor! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Yay! Its when you get that floor down and some walls up that you should really start to feel proper cosy in there. Make sure you move an old sofa inside as soon as possible for coffee/wine/beer chill times while you think about next steps. I recommend you try to get a copy of this book... great inspiration and ideas. http://www.amazon.com/Some-Turtles-Have-Nice-Shells/dp/0971410364 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted July 22, 2015 Author Share Posted July 22, 2015 The final sheets of ply have been laid for the flooring substrate, this prompted the need to make some decisions about shower, vanity and toilet choices as the pipe work needs to pass through the corten steel deck. Decided on a fiberglass shower liner rather than something acrylic, it would seem that there are only a few manufacturers of such things left in NZ, after choosing a model the waste location could be marked on the deck and holes cut for drains and water pipes. You will notice that a tyre has conveniently appeared where the drain will be!! Same was done for the vanity waste and pipe work. Time to start framing up the bathroom. Framed up wall, temporary until the shower stall arrives. The rear loft is now enclosed with the access now defined, the idea is that there will be a vertical ladder attached immediately below the opening. Started to run cabling about the place. Being an electrical engineer I couldn't bring myself to pay for new cabling so have decided to recycle. Most of the interior will be 24 volts DC, there will be some 240 Volt AC but only a few power points. All recycled cable will be tested especially its insulation. The next steps will be to line and create the rear loft sleeping area.............. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Bet you thought I had given up! I have been very slack...................no progress photos!! There have been issues getting photos to post so I stopped trying. Enough of my incompetence!! I will go through the truck and post some update photos soon.........Promise. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Exterior update.............. Exterior has paint! I have installed the first batch of windows More windows. Push out is pushed in, windows have yet to be ordered for this Front window installed. More to come...................... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcro Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Here is a view of the bathroom area closed in, looking from middle of truck to the rear door. I have installed a one piece molded fiberglass shower stall, acrylic free zone!! (must be the boat builder in me) The balance of the bathroom has a false bulkhead across the rear which will be accessed from the outside, this has also allowed for a built in cupboard that will be above the vanity, toilet will be opposite the shower stall. Push out, even managed some wiring for lights Here's a view of the push out pushed in, windows have yet to be cut out. There is a roller set mounted beneath the push out located on the floor at the out side wall line, the front rollers are rubber and soft enough to not mark the floor. The unit locks out on 4 x 20mm stainless steel pins that push into the wall frames. I have purchased a 2 1/2 seat Divan type lounge settee that sits in this push out, the settee converts to a double bed for the occasional guest. The facing trim around the push out will be solid timber and has yet to be installed. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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