flyingbrick Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Keep practicing :-D. You may have discovered why everyone doesn't braze their aluminium intake pipework tho, haha. I must buy one of those expander sets- would be great for stuff like this. If there was an overlap itd be easy because the gap would suck it in like solder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 I think I might just of done that, I think I'll use it for tacking the pipes together for mocking up like I planned before I got carried away. A expander set would be good if I had enough piping haha, How do they work on bends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 You would only have to expand like a 10mm lip for a tiny overlap.. not like an exhaust hehe. Dont use it for tacking up without checking that someone can weld through it haha. It might be a total bastard PS you are doing well! I'm talking shit but in reality what you have done is A+ okay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Good point. I did think of that and was wondering if it'd contaminate the weld but Time will tell on that. I've got the rocker cover an fittings to attach when they arrive so I'll give it another try 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 I sanded the raised letters back and chucked it back on the motor, Looks a bit better now. I'll have to give the block a scrub now so it looks a bit tidier. The headers have a 2" collector so I've chopped that off and should have a 2.5" on the way. The flange is waaay off the head ports. I'm thinking about attacking them with a die grinder so they are close to matching. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 So the shuttle intercooler piping was a fail. Can't tig over the braising as I suspected. More practice needed I think, any tips for a total noob? Braising in general tbh I got some more piping this morning for cheap there was a Pricing error on his website and because I'm a tight ass and said the website was cheaper the seller honoured it. I'm still waiting for my Ali express fittings to turn up. Annoyingly the sump weld in bung is cheaper here. The Aluminium ones were about a 10th the price. I figure they might be total shit but it is only for crank case ventilation so won't be under too much pressure The gearbag for the crx is ready which is good,ill pick it up next week. Had a super successful zebra mission today. I went in to get some stuff for a friend and got pissed at a integra for not having what he needed. After a few minutes looking at it thinking something on here looks useful I clicked that the power steer high pressure line. That was a cheap solution. I've also scored some not cheap shit headers so I don't have to hack these ones up further. Hopefully they clear the subframe and don't scrape All that's left mechanically to do on the crx is clutch and flywheel and put it back together. Oh and finish off the fuel tank. And the sun roof.... I'll ignore all the electrical stuff that doesn't work. The engine loom is good and the lights work. Radio and heater can wait until later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 hey you could try using some plumbers flux paste from a plumbing suppliers place, we use it when brazing brass to copper etc, or dirty pipework, may or may not work for you. have also used it for brazing brass to steel , lots of heat too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Yup gotta use flux! Maybe double check that whatever flux you use is okay for aluminium Clean the material extremely well to remove the thick oxide layer. Get it hotter than you think it needs to be Have an overlap and just trust that it will wick in and bond- don't try to make something that looks like a weld just fill any holes. If you push in too much it will either run out the bottom or into your pipe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 42 minutes ago, flyingbrick said: Yup gotta use flux! Maybe double check that whatever flux you use is okay for aluminium Clean the material extremely well to remove the thick oxide layer. Get it hotter than you think it needs to be Have an overlap and just trust that it will wick in and bond- don't try to make something that looks like a weld just fill any holes. If you push in too much it will either run out the bottom or into your pipe The rods I got specifically said they don't need flux? I had the pipes stinking hot, the rods did seem to adhere/flow well. I cleaned it with acetone first to degrease then a new clean stainless brush or new flap disc so that should be good enough prep? Aah me trying to add material wasn't a good idea then haha. So accurate cutting and a flare on the end should do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 argh ok they must have flux inside. Id expand one end first but thats just me. Maybe you could take them along to a friendly exhaust shop and see if they can accurately expand a little lip on the end for you Theres expander sets on aliexpress aye. Pretty cheap- if ya could find a place here that wuld sell you a cheap SINGLE expander to fit the tube you have then thatd be even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/forced-induction-10/welding-aluminum-tubing-alumiweld-872571/ I did a google search for "brazing aluminum intercooler piping" and found this fulla- he put a lip on there with a spanner.. probably not as tidy as expanding it but who cares. You could do what he did and then after inserting the smaller end into the bigger end gently tap the bigger end down so that its not such a sharp lip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 I have a friend close with a tig so I'll get it done nicely. I originally planned on just tacking with the braising and getting him to tig it nicely but I got carried away. Its not the end of the world and was a good learning exp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 cool man. Thats the only reason i have car projects- learning is fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 4 minutes ago, flyingbrick said: cool man. Thats the only reason i have car projects- learning is fun Thats why I have so many projects haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 5 hours ago, chris r said: I have a friend close with a tig so I'll get it done nicely. I originally planned on just tacking with the braising and getting him to tig it nicely but I got carried away. Its not the end of the world and was a good learning exp I usually just trim the pipes until they fit nicely and masking tape them together. Once it's all made up I take it to the welder and they scrape a bit of tape back and tack it then another spot etc. Saves them having to weld over rough stuff. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 2 hours ago, fletch said: I usually just trim the pipes until they fit nicely and masking tape them together. Once it's all made up I take it to the welder and they scrape a bit of tape back and tack it then another spot etc. Saves them having to weld over rough stuff. thats what I usually do too haha I'll attack it tomorrow and see how I go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Drilled rocker cover for the an fittings, and re mocked up the piping. I'll drop them off tomorrow I collected some bends and stuff so I can continue with the turbo down pipe. Man the Tight 90 bends are heaps more than the normal ones. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 The rest of my aliexpress stuff turned up today steel bung for sump rivnuts etc. I was a noob and ordered -8 instead of -10 bends so I'll order some more and wait. I got the rocker cover and piping welded up which looks sweet! so much better (and faster) than braising. The factory pcv/breather system has this ugly separator box on the back, I turned up a adaptor so I can get a -10 weld in bung in place and to to the catch can. I lost count on a few of the passes before measuring but its pretty close. I'll cut out a retaining tab and get it all welded up nicely later. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 Test fitted the adapor today and it is a loose fit but I'll see how it feels with a option ring. If it leaks I can be lazy & rtv it or I can re make it 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 I started the por 15 process on the crx tank. I got it cleaned and ready for the metal prep, started pouring it in and realized I forgot to put the drain bung in.. Saved most of it and I have been rotating it etc so hopefully there is enough to do the job properly. While I waited for the tank to etch I painted the rocker cover and the piping. The piping has a few runs so I may re do them, I'll test fit them and see how bad/noticeable it is. There is one run on the back of the rocker cover but you'll never see it there so its not worth re doing. I'll wait a day or so until the paint has fully hardened before I sand back the letters. I've booked the shuttle into the panel beater to get a few things tidied up that have bugged me, I told him he can take his time so my guess is a month or so. I've noticed the roof has started to fade a bit so I'll probably get that touched up too. Must be doing os right, spending heaps of money on a $700 car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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