chris r Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Massive thanks to Evan for your help yesterday! It would of taken me about a week to achieve what we did in a few hours! The accord radius arms look like the will work nicely on the shuttle . It look like I may have to extend the thread for the lock nut as the accord thread ends sooner than the ef. A rough option could be using some washers We also replaced the trailing arm bush and wheel cylinder. No pics but noone wants to look at a flakey old bush... Thought I may as well put the mg rotors on which I've had sitting for about a year. They are 282mm, the right offset for prelude calipers and even fit the stock retaining screws. I had 280mm mini rotors on before but they are slightly thinner and the wheel studs holes are larger so there is potiental for the rotor to move. Motor and box came out if crx so at some point I'll drop both boxes off and get one good lsd box back. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 I had enough brain power to do the timing belt, flywheel, and hang the turbo. I'm thinking the drain might be too low but I'll wait until the fittings arrive. I'll have to work out a bracket or mounting for the waste gate as the existing mountings put the outlet at the block or the ground. Hly shit thats a horrible photo. I'll have to find my camera tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I'm so confused....Is that the motor you are using? Not the one with red valve cover? What's the hole in top of manifold? Waste gate? So.many questions lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 This thread is both for the crx & shuttle so that explains the confusion, The Crx is getting the b18cr (dohc red rocker cover) and the shuttle is getting the turbo single cam. The manifold is off a newer civic and originally had the cat bolted right onto it. I have a adapter flange to suit the turbo. The hole is the original O2 sensor location, I may use it if its not too hot but otherwise I have some bungs on their way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 There's proably a million reasons why this wouldn't work, but, could you bore/skim/drill/tap around that 02 sensor and bolt the waste gate on there? I haven't put much brain power into this but it seems like an easy solution (if you have a mill lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 I have thought about that but the internal wastegate is the easier option for now. Flow wise it'd probably be less than ideal if I opened up that hole. Edit: The wastegate actuator fits between the turbo and block so thats why you can't see it, (or it fell off) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 I cut and squared up the nuts for the accord radius arms, ill use the chopped off parts as spacers until I can find a die in the right thread pitch. I took about 15mm off so well see how much caster adjument we get. Ness dad has some alloy bar so I'll measure up where I need to mount the waste gate play with the lathe again. I knew I kept ness around for something:p 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 mate come call down to my work and grab the right die ill most likely have one just let me know when you coming down 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 its m12 x 1 I think. I got the radius arms in the shuttle today with a bit of filing of the holes, The new bushes are way stiffer than the old fucked rubber ones. I had a look at taking the rack out of the subframe and a friend was over and he asked why don't you just swap the whole subframe. They are all the same it seems, its threaded for both mounts. Subframe is bolted in and tomorrow I'll finish off re attaching the control arms and swaybar. The tank is still fucked in the crx, According to the Internets the shuttle tanks can fit the crx/hatches. It doesn't. The filler is on the wrong place, the pump is on the opposite side and last of all it doesn't even fit and hangs too low so at the first bump it'll rip open. Rock auto has a new tank reasonably priced so I'll get a estimate for shipping it home. I was tidying up and had a look at the headers and noticed lots of carbon around the flange... I had a quick check with the gasket on the head and back on the headers and they are way off. There is a huge lip inside them where the pipe meets the flange. I'll attack it with the die grinder and see how much better I can get it. the collector pipe is also only 2" so I'll chop that off and put a bit of 2.5 on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Shipping is horrendous for a tank ex USA. Only 100 for the tank but 200 for air freight or about 170 for sea so nor really a option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 M12x1.25 would be standard for jap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 10 minutes ago, Mof said: M12x1.25 would be standard for jap Probably is, I checked it the other day but forgot what it was. Edit. It better be M12x1 as I've ordered one from aliexpress 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 I got some aluminium braizing rods and gave them a hoon today. Turned out ok after a session with the flap disc. It'll be interesting to see how it holds up/if it leaks or turns to shit. I did some work on the interfooler piping, I had lots of joiners initially so have cut down slightly on them. I might have to squash or reduce the 90 bend down to 2" to clear the bumper, I'll find out soon enough 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 One thing that really winds me up is when people say oh you've got a red top. Its not a 4age or a 202. So I ordered some wrinkle paint. I'm pretty happy with the outcome, we are now having pizza for dinner as someone made the kitchen smell of paint. I just need to carefully sand the raised letters and its good to go 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi808 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 The discussion link is broken? Anyway. This is my favourite thread title on oldschool. #lingpost 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 25 minutes ago, kiwi808 said: The discussion link is broken? Anyway. This is my favourite thread title on oldschool. #lingpost It's not"os" so no discussion thread so spam away here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 I re did the interfooler piping and yes I can fit some 2.5" piping behind the bumper without chopping it too much. Also Yes you can braise aluminium with a mapp torch and the aluminium braising rods but it is a bit shit tbh. Not much penetration at all and most of the joints leak, looking back I should of just tacked stuff together with it and given it to someone to weld. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 I dropped the gearbox to the gearbox guy. He is a proper Barry, gone all the way through to really good & useful. Read the codes and told me what they were out of etc. His shop is so full of stuff he was working on his recycling bin. He stripped and assessed both boxes and let me know the results. The box from the crx is pretty water damaged, all the bearings are sad and second is pretty rusted. He could use second out of the other box I supplied but it's a bit longer which isn't ideal, there should be one floating around so I'm hoping he can find one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 You could use an exhaust expander to make a small slip joint on ya piping..Slide them together like 5mm and braze. Would be STRONG 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hmm good idea, I guess the problem is with my mapp torch the heat is fairly spread and the work piece gets too hot and the braising stuff just runs off or puddles. I thought it is my technique too. I don't really trust the braising long term as it's quite thin and very hard. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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