chris r Posted April 3, 2024 Author Posted April 3, 2024 Redone the high pressure hardline to the receiver drier. Few more joins that I'd initially hoped for but they brazed up much nicer than the block did Cut some bends out of the selection of hardline I had. Needed to drill one out to suit the hose Lined everything up Brazed each section individually so only one thing would move I decided it'd be better to have a flexible hose both in and out of the condenser, less risk of my brazing fatiguing and cracking. Drilled out the compressor adaptor fitting to suit the hardline and brazed it on I'll make a little plate and bolt the fitting so it's secured 7 Quote
chris r Posted April 12, 2024 Author Posted April 12, 2024 Well that escalated quickly. Figured may as well go ham on this /learn how to do some concentric twisting etc. Got some lengths of dr25 and a bunch of different size pins to suit bulkhead connectors. Have some cable on the way too. Should keep me busy for winter 6 Quote
chris r Posted April 15, 2024 Author Posted April 15, 2024 I found some aluminium strap in the scrap bin at work. Drilled and tapped it and mounted it to the rad. I've put some nylocs on the back to be extra safe @Raizer machined me up some spacers and I dummied up the condenser onto the rad. Will get some more screws etc at some point and finish mounting it I was dumb and was looking for a replacement fan as the one I had was in a pusher config. Actually had a look at the fan today and realised I could flip the blade and make it a puller config... Flipped the blade around and that's sorted. Also scored a shroud off trademe for a good price, It will need a bit of trimming 5 Quote
chris r Posted April 16, 2024 Author Posted April 16, 2024 Grabbed some M5 stainless stuff in my travels today Drilled and tapped the rest of the mounting holes and mounted the condenser In one of the previous test fits I'd marked out where it would probably hit the body Took a brave pill and took the hacksaw to the offending piece and it clears And it's in position and (nearly) everything clears It's close to the bonnet latch so I might need to give it a trim but will see how it goes I was thinking I might need to make up some ducting but the drivers side doesn't have too many places for the air to escape through Passengers side is a different story but I'll deal with that one turbo manifold and plumbing is done 4 Quote
chris r Posted April 16, 2024 Author Posted April 16, 2024 After seeing flash sort the ac in his van (that was the kick I needed to start refitting) and with the diy hoses I figured I'd give it a crack too. Ordered some fittings and a meter of hose Didn't end up needing anywhere close to a meter And sitting ready for crimping I'll probably end up running the wires through the loom in the guard for the ac compressor and pressure switch as I won't any any of the engine loom on the front. Thinking about it I'll run the boost control solenoid with it and tuck it out of the way in that area 6 Quote
chris r Posted April 19, 2024 Author Posted April 19, 2024 The shroud arrived, it'll need some trimming to suit but was cheap enough I pulled the manifold off and sat the turbo in place with the v band adaptor bolted on so I can start figuring out the manifold. I'd be a lot easier to fit the tubo without the air con compressor The downpipe is going to be fun and a lot of bends too, it'll probably will do a U-turn then sneak behind the manifold and down. @Raizer trimmed the Drain fitting and that now fits nicely (I'll need to clock the core to sort out the angles ) The sinco merge collector is quite nice, I might need to shorten it a little as its quite long and space is limited I've ordered some more steampipe short radius bends as I don't have enough. The Nissan genuine studs for the turbo are 40mm M8x1.25 and are $12 each, The Honda studs are 38mm M8x1.25 and are $2.50 each so I'll order a bunch of honda studs and hope the 2mm won't make that much difference 7 Quote
chris r Posted April 23, 2024 Author Posted April 23, 2024 I'll need some tighter radius bends for the manifold and the dump pipe so ordered a donut and some more steam pipe bends. Also got some heat sleeving for the ac lines. If I'm lucky I'll be able to use it for the water and oil lines for the turbo 7 Quote
chris r Posted May 25, 2024 Author Posted May 25, 2024 I needed studs for the turbo and the manifold flange for the turbo. I thought about some all thread but figured it'd probably fail or be shit. Saw some cheap stud kits but they were probably cheese too. The Nissan genuine turbo /exhaust studs caught my eye but at $7 per stud that's was a bit rich as I'm cheap. The Nissan studs are meant to be M8x40mm. Figured I'd look up the honda exhaust manifold studs. They are M8x38mm and only $2 each I figured 2mm wouldn't be the end of the world so ordered a bunch along with a new gasket Just finger tight for now but they fit pretty well The AliExpress cast v band adaptor needs some holes enlarged as they don't perfectly line up but a bit of careful drilling should sort that 6 Quote
chris r Posted June 23, 2024 Author Posted June 23, 2024 Found some draft stopper stuff in the drawer of miscellaneous stuff Stuck it on not very straight And it seals the gap 3 Quote
chris r Posted June 24, 2024 Author Posted June 24, 2024 Spent some time on the shroud today. Gave one side a trim And the other side Flipped it over so the fan had more clearance to the top hose and did a bit of clearance work for the top hose Found a bit of aluminum in my hoard and trimmed it to cover the rest of the rad Will get it welded together and will recycle the old tabs and use them to mount it to the tanks 3 Quote
shrike Posted June 29, 2024 Posted June 29, 2024 Any plans on an EK front conversion on the orthia? Quote
chris r Posted July 1, 2024 Author Posted July 1, 2024 On 29/06/2024 at 14:53, shrike said: Any plans on an EK front conversion on the orthia? If it was pre Facelift I would but I kinda like the Facelift front 2 Quote
Popular Post chris r Posted July 1, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted July 1, 2024 Spent longer than I expected playing around with bends today It won't be anywhere near equal length but turbo won't care Sat the turbo on a bit of wood so the oil drain was high enough and it cleared ac stuff Tacked stuff together Had a brain fart with the third runner and will cut it off and move it. I'll need to make a brace or couple of brackets to hold the flange where I wantb so I can square the tuning up a bit better as everything is quite precarious at the moment 10 1 Quote
Rhyscar Posted July 1, 2024 Posted July 1, 2024 Oh stop it. Turbo stuff is so easy. Making me think it would be worth a try. nice progress though. Are you following a pretty set recipe for turboing these things or making it up as you go? Quote
chris r Posted July 1, 2024 Author Posted July 1, 2024 9 minutes ago, Rhyscar said: Oh stop it. Turbo stuff is so easy. Making me think it would be worth a try. nice progress though. Are you following a pretty set recipe for turboing these things or making it up as you go? Engine is fairly standard recipe. Big rods, vitara pistons. I've gone a bit exta and chucked a bigger cam/valve springs in it too. Coil on plug stuff is later model stuff so honda lego there If I wanted to ditch ac there are a few manifold options but as I want to keep it (and not have a hole in the bonnet) best option is to make one 2 Quote
chris r Posted July 4, 2024 Author Posted July 4, 2024 Absoutly. For one pass maybe. The disco tato should be good for about 200kw at 20ish psi. Hopefully it should be fairly responsive 2 Quote
chris r Posted July 8, 2024 Author Posted July 8, 2024 Made some progess on the manifold, got three runners done Then number 3 runner wasn't playing nice/everything was too tight Got everything tacked up and test fitted it. Don't have the rad at the moment so knowing my luck the manifold will be too close Carefully marked the flange with a vivid and tacked it in the wrong place so the inlet is hitting the ac compressor I'll hold off redoing the flange as I suspect I'll have to redo the runners to clear the rad but will wait until that's back in to know for certain But on a positive note it clears the bonnet 4 Quote
chris r Posted July 8, 2024 Author Posted July 8, 2024 I had grand plans for a 3" dump pipe snaking around but that's not going to work or fit The Vr4 intercooler I've had kicking around will also not work Had it modded years ago with a 90 inlet. most of the fins are pretty mashed up so probably best to cut my losses on that I did a bunch of reading on inter-cooler sizing and found Mishimoto has a guide here which i'll use as a rule of thumb. There are calculations to work sizing out correctly but I'm not smart enough for that and don't have the data needed to do that accurately anyway Rule of thumb for charge piping And intercooler core size I've only got 500x300 of space to mount a intercooler without butchering the bumper or hitting the bonnet I'm looking at a 326x145x50 72.69 in sq (420x145 overall) bar and plate or a 330x140x50 71.4 sq in (480x140 overall) tube and fin according to Mishimoto chart they both should be big enough, I'm allowing a safety factor of 2 as the cheaper inter-coolers won't be high efficiency I'm leaning towards the tube and fin option but will over think it some more 1 Quote
chris r Posted July 15, 2024 Author Posted July 15, 2024 The barry in me thinks that mishimoto stuff is bs and that cooler is too small. @Raizer hot metal glued the shroud together and made some nice mounts for it Unsurprisingly tacking up the manifold without the radiator present means they both want to be in the same place. Turbo also wants to share that same space so back to the drawing board with the manifold. I expected there would be a few iterations of the manifold as space is quite limited 7 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.