chris r Posted March 11, 2023 Author Posted March 11, 2023 Had to extend the throttle cable bracket even more. Quick and dirty chop weld grind and paint 2 Quote
Raizer Posted March 11, 2023 Posted March 11, 2023 Come on man, you know it's time to ditch these Hondas and slip into the opulent luxury of the Daewoo Chairman H 1 1 Quote
chris r Posted March 11, 2023 Author Posted March 11, 2023 I think I'd prefer the ssangyong Chairman H 1 Quote
chris r Posted March 11, 2023 Author Posted March 11, 2023 Also pipe dreaming about this. Realistically it's not a option as next to zero space unless alternator goes and I'm not giving up my air con to bolt it on the front 1 Quote
Raizer Posted March 11, 2023 Posted March 11, 2023 Fuck gassy air con, boost = faster, faster = more air in the window, more air in the window = nature's air con. Solved. 4 Quote
tortron Posted March 11, 2023 Posted March 11, 2023 Hi chris I have looked into this, the consensus is that it sucks and a turbski is just way better 1 Quote
chris r Posted March 11, 2023 Author Posted March 11, 2023 I'm calling the vacuum leak fixed. Well as fixed as it can be with the alix manifold. I noticed a thin/undercut bit for the idle motor feed port meets the throttle body bolt This Bluetooth connection makes setting tps easier. Get tps roughly in the ball park and then adjust the min/max values on your phone 1 Quote
chris r Posted March 11, 2023 Author Posted March 11, 2023 41 minutes ago, tortron said: Hi chris I have looked into this, the consensus is that it sucks and a turbski is just way better But how else can I live out my supercharger on a button mad max fantasy when sitting in traffic? Carbs suck too so it'll probably end up on something that came out of the factory with a carb Quote
chris r Posted March 18, 2023 Author Posted March 18, 2023 Finally had another look at the rear brakes as pedal was getting soft again and handbrake had heaps of travel. Turns out whoever did brakes last time replaced the auto adjuster on the left hand side with the wrong one(lh has reverse thread) so it was auto adjusting in not out. If grabbed a couple from pap when I was there and fitted the correct one in and adjusted up and all is well. Probably was the same mekenik who left the hard line into the prop valve loose. No pics becuse break dust etc. I thought I'd try patching the exhaust leak in the beagle so I could take it for a wof One patch turned into two, then four. Then I found more holes and decided the whole pipes rusty and fucked and I need to redo it so it's back to sitting on the lawn for a few months 4 Quote
chris r Posted March 22, 2023 Author Posted March 22, 2023 I thought I had photos of the harness but didn't. I decided to try swapping the ecu plug on the adaptor harness to the genuine as its less work and soldering everything. The pins were quite loose in the Chinese connectors so there might have been something dodgy there. But when putting it back in I noticed that Then wire might have snapped when I was rough and pulled the twist and tape out or it was damaged internally after the big swap/surgery. Seems to be fixed for now. Let's hope it stays that way 3 Quote
Raizer Posted March 22, 2023 Posted March 22, 2023 All the times you told me to mash the birds nest of loom and plugs with my foot probably didn't help that whole situation either haha 1 Quote
chris r Posted March 31, 2023 Author Posted March 31, 2023 On 22/03/2023 at 20:59, chris r said: I thought I had photos of the harness but didn't. I decided to try swapping the ecu plug on the adaptor harness to the genuine as its less work and soldering everything. The pins were quite loose in the Chinese connectors so there might have been something dodgy there. But when putting it back in I noticed that Then wire might have snapped when I was rough and pulled the twist and tape out or it was damaged internally after the big swap/surgery. Seems to be fixed for now. Let's hope it stays that way Nope back to not working again. Really need to borrow a scope and solder a wire to ecu pin and see if it's acutally getting a signal or if ecu is being a dick Quote
mjrstar Posted March 31, 2023 Posted March 31, 2023 Do you just need one of those OBD2 to obd1 adapter looms to fault find? Quote
chris r Posted April 1, 2023 Author Posted April 1, 2023 On 31/03/2023 at 19:17, mjrstar said: Do you just need one of those OBD2 to obd1 adapter looms to fault find? If you have a spare I could borrow that'd be helpful. Quote
mjrstar Posted April 1, 2023 Posted April 1, 2023 I have this which is in my spares package for the race car. It should be p30 to OBD2 loom (is there other types?), although I haven't had it out of the packet to confirm. Happy to loan it it it helps with troubleshooting. Quote
chris r Posted April 2, 2023 Author Posted April 2, 2023 Unfortunately that's the wrong Obd2 plug but thanks for the offer That's earlier obd2a and mines obd2b but thanks for the offer 1 Quote
chris r Posted April 2, 2023 Author Posted April 2, 2023 So pulled the ecu out again and tested continuity for the millionth time. Of course it's all good. Possibly a dry joint or more likely it's scratches from my meter probes. Reflowed it while it was in there and soldered the wire on There's a handy hole in side of the case so wire comes out nicely Now it can go back in and every time I have the tools it'll work. One possibility is the speedo corrector is causing schenanagins with the signal and the ecu not being happy with it, that's another reason for wanting to chuck a scope on it Quote
chris r Posted April 2, 2023 Author Posted April 2, 2023 And of course it behaves on the test drive 3 Quote
chris r Posted April 3, 2023 Author Posted April 3, 2023 Aand back to being a dick again. Really need to get a scope out and see what the signal is actually doing. Is the speedo corrector being a dick and changing it or is some other fuckery happening Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.