Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[ThePog]

Are there any combo oil pressure senders/low pressure switches?

Preferably with a 1/8 BSP fitment and the sensor running 0 to 300 ohms..

[chasinthemirage]

2 hours ago, Nominal said:

Has it been driven much lately? Might need a tweak on the adjusters, particularly for the mechanical rears.

Should stop OK-ish even from that speed, will need a bit of a push on the pedal.

Probably not, fella is selling it because it doesn't get used. It's had the brakes redone at some point reasonably recently too so may still need to bed in a little I guess. Be interesting to see how they'd go with some more fettling.

[h4nd]

Must.

STOP.

Fixing.

Other people's shitty products.

https://docs.espressif.com/projects/esp-chip-errata/en/latest/esp32/03-errata-description/esp32/gpio-edge-interrupts.html#gpio-3-14-within-the-same-group-of-gpio-pins-edge-interrupts-cannot-be-used-together-with-other-interrupts

 

(I can't fix that janky part of the microcontroller, but I'm tempted to build a library to fix the part of Arduino which has fallen for those shenanigans ... but refer clause A)

[oldrx]

Any theories on my brake issues?

 

Symptoms – pedal reasonably hard when freshly bled then goes soft, pumps up a bit of pressure with a few pumps, brakes only work at very bottom of pedal, hand brake works fine.

 

Master rebuilt, fresh fluid, rears seem adjusted ok, has a tiny bit of drag when turned by hand. Rear cylinders are unknown, I might replace them. Front calipers are rebuilt apart from the pistons.

 

Have read online to bleed master but mine doesn’t have bleed nipples.

 

Front discs, rear drums.

[tortron]

4 minutes ago, oldrx said:

Have read online to bleed master but mine doesn’t have bleed nipples.

You bench bleed it. Youtube has tutorials. 

Can do it installed in the car. JIST of it is run some tubing from the front and rear out ports back into the full reservoir 

[Nominal]

Sometimes rebuilds are done badly.

[Leone]

Drilling out spot welds, what the tech?I have used the below in the past, but waste of time, figured someone has some tech...... please help

[Adoom]

2 minutes ago, Leone said:

Drilling out spot welds, what the tech?I have used the below in the past, but waste of time, figured someone has some tech...... please help

I used what you have pictured to remove many many spot welds. My technique, eventually, after lot and lots of swearing, was to use a small center drill (the stubby ones you use on a lathe) and make a tiny hole for the guide pin. This makes it much less likely to grab and fuck off.
I've never found a more effective method to remove spot welds than this.
A finger sander works, but it destroys the top panel.
The center drills by themselves work too(less likely to wander off than a normal drill bit), if you don't mind drilling through both panels.

[Leone]

5 minutes ago, Adoom said:

I used what you have pictured to remove many many spot welds. My technique, eventually, after lot and lots of swearing, was to use a small center drill (the stubby ones you use on a lathe) and make a tiny hole for the guide pin. This makes it much less likely to grab and fuck off.
I've never found a more effective method to remove spot welds than this.
A finger sander works, but it destroys the top panel.
The center drills by themselves work too(less likely to wander off than a normal drill bit), if you don't mind drilling through both panels.

yeah am trying to save the panel, i was just drilling straight thru them but panelbeater wasnt too happy, so got those ones (as above) but i wrecked so many even going incredibly slow, unsure if the technique is wrong or what but tried a few different ways and all got destroyed..i figured there must be a fast way somehow...


Is this what you mean by centre drill (its what google surgested)

[oldrx]

Any brands to favour or steer away from in regards press in wheel studs?

 

A few options Im looking at;

 

Grayston 12x1.5 14.3mm Spline 63mm Wheel Studs

Aeroflow AF5071-1002 M12 x 1.50mm Wheel Studs - 0.505" Knurl - 63.5mm UHL

RTS Wheel Studs, Axle Studs, Press-In, 3.250 Inc length, 12mm x 1.5 Ri – Fast Lane Spares

[tortron]

I use those panel drills to start the center

They have the correct angle for drilling sheet metal. Run two drills and its ok. Also use the finger sander.

Still get 1/3 of those spot weld drills thingos that suck balls and instantly get thrown across the shed

[Adoom]

7 minutes ago, Leone said:

yeah am trying to save the panel, i was just drilling straight thru them but panelbeater wasnt too happy, so got those ones (as above) but i wrecked so many even going incredibly slow, unsure if the technique is wrong or what but tried a few different ways and all got destroyed..i figured there must be a fast way somehow...


Is this what you mean by centre drill (its what google surgested)

Yes, that's what I mean. The one with the 2.5mm little end is about the right size for the guide pin.
I'm just using cheap AliExpress ones.

[Nominal]

I've had reasonable success with this style 

https://eshop.wurth.co.nz/HSCO-spot-weld-drill-bit-TIN-coated-DRL-SPTWELD-TIN-D8MM/07100088.sku/en/GB/NZD/

Or just using a cutoff wheel on the sacrificial panel side.

[oldrx]

2 minutes ago, Nominal said:

I've had reasonable success with this style 

https://eshop.wurth.co.nz/HSCO-spot-weld-drill-bit-TIN-coated-DRL-SPTWELD-TIN-D8MM/07100088.sku/en/GB/NZD/

Or just using a cutoff wheel on the sacrificial panel side.

You can get those from Bunnings also in HSS and Carbide, expensive and you can't sharpen them but really nice to use.

[Adoom]

37 minutes ago, oldrx said:

You can get those from Bunnings also in HSS and Carbide, expensive and you can't sharpen them but really nice to use.

I could only find Brad point drills. They look similar.... but apparently not the same.

[kws]

2 hours ago, tortron said:

You bench bleed it. Youtube has tutorials. 

Can do it installed in the car. JIST of it is run some tubing from the front and rear out ports back into the full reservoir 

Agreed, sounds like exactly what happened when I replaced the master on my Honda without bleeding it. 

I fixed it by cracking off the fittings on the master and pumping fluid through until air stopped coming out. Makes a hell of a mess doing it this way though. one of the fittings hissed out air when I cracked it off, despite having bled all corners. 

[oldrx]

46 minutes ago, Adoom said:

I could only find Brad point drills. They look similar.... but apparently not the same.

Kango 5mm HSS Drill Bit - 5 Pack - Bunnings New Zealand

Think you are right, might be similar enough to work though

[RXFORD]

6 hours ago, oldrx said:

Any theories on my brake issues?

 

Symptoms – pedal reasonably hard when freshly bled then goes soft, pumps up a bit of pressure with a few pumps, brakes only work at very bottom of pedal, hand brake works fine.

 

Master rebuilt, fresh fluid, rears seem adjusted ok, has a tiny bit of drag when turned by hand. Rear cylinders are unknown, I might replace them. Front calipers are rebuilt apart from the pistons.

 

Have read online to bleed master but mine doesn’t have bleed nipples.

 

Front discs, rear drums.

Boosted?  If so, is the non-return between intake and booster around the correct way?

[RXFORD]

6 hours ago, Leone said:

Drilling out spot welds, what the tech?I have used the below in the past, but waste of time, figured someone has some tech...... please help

Drill an 1/8" pilot hole, doesn't have to be all the way through, then measure the spot weld diam and find a drillbit a tiny bit bigger. Sharpen it to a very shallow angle then while drilling, lay the drill over and swing it around so the shallow edges catch the panel until the spotweld pops before it goes all the way through.

Don't have to go buying expensive 'spotweld' drillbits when ya do it this way. And you get good at sharpening.

 

 

[Leone]

2 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

Drill an 1/8" pilot hole, doesn't have to be all the way through, then measure the spot weld diam and find a drillbit a tiny bit bigger. Sharpen it to a very shallow angle then while drilling, lay the drill over and swing it around so the shallow edges catch the panel until the spotweld pops before it goes all the way through.

Don't have to go buying expensive 'spotweld' drillbits when ya do it this way. And you get good at sharpening.

 

 

thanks... im soooo average at sharpening, even after watching many vidyas on the subject.