Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[gibbon]

got an old external regulated alternator here that shorted the stator. I fitted another stator, then hooked up the brushes to a battery just to see if it had any life in it. Got a bit of a spark as I connected the field, and now there's 2v sitting at the output terminal without the alternator turning. It does increase as I spin the pulley, but is it normal for some voltage to be wicking it's way through to the output without the alternator turning? i mean, there's no physical path to the output from the field, it's gotta be the brush arcing out somewhere, surely

[datlow]

Fuel lines 

have a mix of rubber-hardline-rubber + same again for return 

1/4 and 5/16

its all crusty and rusty etc so plan to replace the lot

whats the best way same again (steel, alloy or SS hardline)

or just rubber the whole way- it’s tucked up along the chassis rail so not danger of it being scrapped

looks like I’d end up with a bunch of spare hardlines but might come in useful for the other car 

[Rookie]

I would be tempted to do the whole lot in 8mm alloy hard line with AN fittings on either end and then just get the an - hose barb fitting that fits the size soft line you need. 

 

I seem to remember that there are some fairly specific rules around fuel lines and mounting, what do you say @cletus?

 

[cletus]

So if you are trying to avoid cert= stay with hard lines- basically replicate oem including the attachment clips, if you go outside of this the virm kicks it into cert territory 

 

For cert, you can use either hose or hard line, if it's bigger size than oem or goes in a different route then it has to be secured every 300mm

Hard line is definitely better, when the hose perishes after 1 year and you have to run a whole new line again it's not worth the time saved 

I did mine in hose on the Plymouth because at the time (covid) that's all I could get , it is good hose so hasn't perished but I wish I'd just waited and put hard line in 

[RUNAMUCK]

7 hours ago, cletus said:

 if it's bigger size than oem or goes in a different route then it has to be secured every 300mm

I'd been meaning to ask you about this rule. 

What if say, the floor has a large upwards bit of shape, and there's nothing to secure a clip to?  

I'm in this boat in my ute. Directly under the driver's seat, there's a hump (which serves no purpose but to prevent the fitment of an amp, or underseat sub that i can tell?

At a pinch, I can add a clip mounted on a threaded rod stalk. (Reminiscent of a triumph gearbox xmember mount)

 

[Bling]

Have a hopefully basic question regarding oil filters. I ordered a new one as I had credit at SCA, it's large diameter than the quite small OEM filter on the car. It seems like the OEM one has the o-ring right near the edge of the filter and the replacement one I got (penrite, which is equiv model to the Ryco recommended) has the o-ring inset from the edge. If the o-ring fits to the housing correctly does that mean it's all good? I have a Bosch filter on the shelf I got from RockAuto yonks ago and it had the same difference so I just got a new filter and left that on the shelf. But now that I have yet another filter that is larger diameter, it's got me wondering. Does the o-ring provide the only mating surface the filter needs or does the outer metal part of the filter form part of the seal / connection. It seems like it will work since all the guts are within the o-ring. I'm just unsure if the lip of the filter does anything or not. Cheers

[cletus]

19 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I'd been meaning to ask you about this rule. 

What if say, the floor has a large upwards bit of shape, and there's nothing to secure a clip to?  

I'm in this boat in my ute. Directly under the driver's seat, there's a hump (which serves no purpose but to prevent the fitment of an amp, or underseat sub that i can tell?

At a pinch, I can add a clip mounted on a threaded rod stalk. (Reminiscent of a triumph gearbox xmember mount)

 

yes will need something to mount it to, or make it follow the shape of the floor

[cletus]

17 minutes ago, Bling said:

Have a hopefully basic question regarding oil filters. I ordered a new one as I had credit at SCA, it's large diameter than the quite small OEM filter on the car. It seems like the OEM one has the o-ring right near the edge of the filter and the replacement one I got (penrite, which is equiv model to the Ryco recommended) has the o-ring inset from the edge. If the o-ring fits to the housing correctly does that mean it's all good? I have a Bosch filter on the shelf I got from RockAuto yonks ago and it had the same difference so I just got a new filter and left that on the shelf. But now that I have yet another filter that is larger diameter, it's got me wondering. Does the o-ring provide the only mating surface the filter needs or does the outer metal part of the filter form part of the seal / connection. It seems like it will work since all the guts are within the o-ring. I'm just unsure if the lip of the filter does anything or not. Cheers

if the seal fits on the mating surface you should be golden, just make sure the body doesnt foul on anything near the filter as you are doing it up 

oil filters are a lot more universal than youd think, ive put all sorts of filters on different engines for various reasons, bigger is good IMO as theres more surface area inside

only thing to be careful of is if your engine needs an anti drain back valve or if it has a weird fitting ie a valiant - where the filter is vertical

[Bling]

Thanks for that, good to know! Yeah it seems like it will fit and it's got to be at least 50% bigger overall. O-ring looks to be about the diameter of the mating surface without removing the filter to check. It has an anti drain valve in it so should be good and it's only the Corolla. Thanks. 

[sheepers]

fuckin Z9 mayte, if the thread dosent fit it means your not trying hard enough.

itll fit if you're not a girl. 

[ajg193]

57 minutes ago, Bling said:

Thanks for that, good to know! Yeah it seems like it will fit and it's got to be at least 50% bigger overall. O-ring looks to be about the diameter of the mating surface without removing the filter to check. It has an anti drain valve in it so should be good and it's only the Corolla. Thanks. 

Only other thing to consider with filters is the bypass pressure setting. I doubt it is listed in the datasheets but supposedly different engines are designed for different filter bypass pressure and Toyotas can be quite sensitive.

I can't wait for the day we all have electric cars and don't have to worry about this crap.

[Bling]

Yeah I can't easily spot that spec for any filter, so I guess it's time to just send it. I can be the first person in the world who bothers to rebuild a 3AU.

EV's are still pretty service heavy. I did the reduction fluid when I got mine and it will be due again in another 10 years, outrageous. 

[tortron]

15 minutes ago, Bling said:

can't easily spot that spec for any filter

Thats weird it used to be easily available, but I guess what's your rego is the ticket now. I think.ryco must have it in their parts manual if you ask for it (other sites have the data so it must have come from somewhere)

 

Anyway a z9 is 14.9 psi across the filter

[Bling]

I went to Ryco site to sort fitment then using the "garage" feature on SCA it said the Penrite was equiv. I'm sure they will all be in the ballpark, it's nothing special engine wise.

[RUNAMUCK]

I've got a twin fluorescent tube in my garage that has stopped working.  It's not that old*, and although it's the people's republics finest,  it is at least a brand I at least at one time respected. 

I had a bit of a poke and a prod with my meter. Defo has juice going in. 

Doesn't seem to be any of the clean safe dependable electrons coming out of the Ballast? (It's at least new enough to not have the separate starter like they used to) 

Do I a, try buy a new balast?

Or B, try buy LED Tubes, (and just bypass the dead balast completely?)

Or C, cut my losses, and replace it with a new complete LED batten style light?

 

These were installed not long before LED stuff became way more common place.

Help me OS Hive mind.......

[JustHarry]

14 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I've got a twin fluorescent tube in my garage that has stopped working.  It's not that old*, and although it's the people's republics finest,  it is at least a brand I at least at one time respected. 

I had a bit of a poke and a prod with my meter. Defo has juice going in. 

Doesn't seem to be any of the clean safe dependable electrons coming out of the Ballast? (It's at least new enough to not have the separate starter like they used to) 

Do I a, try buy a new balast?

Or B, try buy LED Tubes, (and just bypass the dead balast completely?)

Or C, cut my losses, and replace it with a new complete LED batten style light?

 

These were installed not long before LED stuff became way more common place.

Help me OS Hive mind.......

I replaced the fluorescent tubes in my dining room twice before I bought a bunnings led batten . Fluro tubes can gtfo 

[NickJ]

swap out with 5x Led of the same size, light is awesome!

[RUNAMUCK]

7 minutes ago, NickJ said:

swap out with 5x Led of the same size, light is awesome!

Do you have a link to a suitable product?

Honestly, I like bright fucking lights.

I want my garage to be bright enough, I could grow weed in here.....

[cletus]

31 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

 

Or C, cut my losses, and replace it with a new complete LED batten style light?

 

 

That's what I did in that situation 

[NickJ]

32 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Do you have a link to a suitable product?

Honestly, I like bright fucking lights.

I want my garage to be bright enough, I could grow weed in here.....

 

https://www.voltexelectrical.co.nz/p-12814-led-indoor-batten-1st-gen-tri-colour-non-dimmable.aspx

Wish I could help other than shit comments, the 1500mm version are what the sparky put in my shed, but they only sell to trade.