Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[NickJ]

1 hour ago, tortron said:

This was my job for a bit, but they replaced them with automatic ones. Bluddy automation m8

 

 

Those things always clog, were you not re-employed as an auto drain maintainer?

[tortron]

nah they just dont drain them till the instrument tech comes in

[Raizer]

16 minutes ago, Sunbeam said:

I’ve got one in black. GHFWII. I’m very happy with it. There’s two versions (there were 7 years ago) I cheaped out and bought a standard one, but there was a continuous run model too, which I would buy if shopping again.

Good to hear feedback from someone with one!

I think the main difference between the older black ones and the new red one is they've uprated the motor, so 4hp instead of 3hp, just from the small bit I can find online anyway. 

 

Currently the continuous run model is on special for less than the standard.

[igor]

That is clearly a sign.

[Corbie]

I was working as a building tech as a temp way back. One of the sites I went to they were complaining about the compressor running continuously.. went and took a look. 1000l tank.. at least 1/3 full of water.

[JustHarry]

One day at work the dryer drain on the compressor came loose from its tether and whipped up and knocked the plug for the single phase dryer out of the wall. 

The compressor quickly turned into a water blaster when using an air gun. And it filled a bunch of air tools with water .

 

/spam 

[Bling]

17 minutes ago, Raizer said:

Good to hear feedback from someone with one!

I think the main difference between the older black ones and the new red one is they've uprated the motor, so 4hp instead of 3hp, just from the small bit I can find online anyway. 

 

Currently the continuous run model is on special for less than the standard.

I wonder if they were having issues with the 3HP not lasting the distance. My Marquip has 3HP and slightly less FAD than the toolshed one and goes well enough. Continuous well worth going for, especially for the big jobs. Hard to beat for that money with the three year warranty. 

[Raizer]

Yeah I knew I was having moisture issues when I went to dry something with the air gun and it got wetter ha

 

And clumpy glass beads coming out of the sandblaster don't actually make it a vapour blaster 

[MaxPower]

34 minutes ago, Raizer said:

Yeah I knew I was having moisture issues when I went to dry something with the air gun and it got wetter ha

 

And clumpy glass beads coming out of the sandblaster don't actually make it a vapour blaster 

I built this home job water/air separator as a bit of an experiment, seems to well, could have spent an extra 5 min mounting it nicer. 

[gibbon]

9 hours ago, Raizer said:

Yeah I knew I was having moisture issues when I went to dry something with the air gun and it got wetter ha

 

And clumpy glass beads coming out of the sandblaster don't actually make it a vapour blaster 

nothing gets the job done faster than a hydrocharged air grinder 

[440bbm]

the tool shed compressors are very good and the warranty is great. if you can afford the continuous model, buy it as the design lends itself much better to any operation and you are much less likely to have as much moisture in the tank if normal use due to cooler temperatures between stages.
then it comes into its own when wanting to paint or have high usage, or have a large storage vessel on startup when empty.

any of the tool shed issues are known either on assembly or when you first get it home if the staff haven't fully assembled it and tested it, which is supposed to be the case. missing threads in the heads for the filters or a missing fitting,  wheel missing etc etc 
the larger hp motor is to assist for re-starting at higher pressures if you have set the trip quite high. but be careful you have the correct powerpoint/voltage supply for it as you may have issues with low voltage to motor and find it humming and it will kill it. obviously dont put it on a long extension cord type stuff. 

 

also definately agree with the points above about making the drain as easy to access as possible as very few people drain them daily or as frequently as you should, so making it easy to get to and operate will ensure the best chance you actually do it.

[Raizer]

 

They'd filled the oil and ran it in in-store before I picked it up. 

Just got to get rid of the aro fittings for Nitto and might as well run some flex for a dedicated 15a socket so I can finally ditch the mess of multi plugs and ancient short extension cords.

[cletus]

On 27/07/2025 at 10:29, Nominal said:

Does @sr2 still visit?

Rear brakes on the woodie have just started making some slight rubbing(?) noise when driving. Touching the brake pedal stops the noise.

Brakes seem to work fine when needed.

Had a look behind the wheels today and don't entirely like what I see on the disc wear pattern, but I'm not sure what it is caused by?

 

 According to some googling the calipers are XE/XF Fairmont and are particularly shitty to work on

 

There's a trick to adjusting the handbrake on those, if it's not returning to its rest stop or if the lever moves a long way

Back the cable off, grab a 13mm spanner, unbolt and remove the lever that operates the handbrake, use the 13mm spanner to turn the 2 flats on the lever shaft until the lever is in the right spot, reassemble 

[Raizer]

20 hours ago, fletch said:

Go down to your local hoseshop and buy a 3/8 ball valve and a couple of fittings to get rid of that drain port and a bit of tube to take it outside of your environment and give it a send every now and then to blow the water out.

Shouldn't cost more than $50 for the parts 

Just need to add a barb fitting and I can stick a bit of hose somewhere out of the way/through the wall lol

[440bbm]

make sure you fix the outlet end of the drain to something firm so when you crack the vale open it doesnt flappity flap all over the place and make a fucking mess HAHA

[westy]

Cut a hole in a balloon and stick it on the end. 

[HighLUX]

Use the air pressure to slowly punch down a bore for free water. Shouldnt take long to fine the water table in your hood

[Doug Hill]

3 hours ago, 440bbm said:

make sure you fix the outlet end of the drain to something firm so when you crack the vale open it doesnt flappity flap all over the place and make a fucking mess HAHA

I forgot to do that this morning and my waterpump that looks like a compressor turned in to a rust water spitting python. 

[Nominal]

Still chasing this rear end noise.

Cleaning up the caliper sides didn't help, so I jacked the rear up and ran it in gear.

Noise is coming from the passenger side only I think, and still goes away if the brake pedal is touched.

Took the wheel off and still there, and again with the caliper removed. - pretty clear in the video I recorded.

Took the disc off and it went away (it doesn't have any internal handbrake drum gubbins, that's done with the caliper)

Put the disc back on and no noise - it's not rubbing on the backing plate either.

Any ideas - I would have thought if the axle bearing was an issue it would stay noisy?

For now I'm going to put it back together and go for a drive.

 

 

[Beaver]

Video is private @Nominal