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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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Yeah power file has changed my life. Also guilty of nipping it up in the vice for mini linisher duties. Handy having a round end, flat sections, and sections with no plate under them to run over/in curves etc

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I have ali-x version but haven't used it much - belts seem a bit crap, probably should buy some better ones locally.

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I grabbed some the other day from tool shed, they seem to be lasting ok. Can't argue with the price really, 3 for $1.90, less if you are a club member. I grabbed 40, 80 and 120 grit. Cheap enough that I don't mind going through them. Says on the box wood and soft metal. Gets through sheet metal nicely. Birdshit welds take a bit more time.

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My powerfile came with some belts, they lasted all of 45 seconds each. I also bought some good bosch belts at the same time (about $9 for 3) and they lasted a good 15 mins to half an hour of run time each.

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I get my belts from MyTools. They don't always have them available. But the green Zirconia belts are the only ones I've come across that hold together long enough to wear out before breaking. AFAIK, they are glued and taped. I use my power file mostly for cleaning up welds, and the sharp edges are pretty hard on the join. I tried the bunnings ones, but they fell apart so fast I may as well have put them straight in the bin. I've only ever seen the bosch belts in 60G, but I mostly use 40G for welds. 

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On 13/01/2019 at 08:29, Testament said:

Having not the right spanner for putting metric/imperial bolts in opposite thread holes and other surprises lay down that path in the future

Can confirm this sucks. #RoverSD1life 

I'd still do it though. No need to make more work now, when you could use what you have at hand. Future you won't mind. 

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On 13/01/2019 at 11:07, The Bronze said:

I'll know. The next guy. Fuck him. 

So went to the shed last night and had a fuck around, tried a Metric 8x1.25 in the hole to see if that'd be a good next step up, perfect fit. Think to myself "Oh, you're the next guy. Fuck me." and did a reassemble with the starter in and torqueing the bolt. But, it doesn't torque. Pull it out, look at the gunk in the thread. It's been filled with some sort of JB Weld/Knead It shit. 

So I'm looking for a 3/8 UNC tap. CarbideNZ look good but are in Palmerston North and I'd be keen to do it tonight. Anyone in auckland we'd recommend?

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On 11/12/2018 at 06:03, tortron said:

It'll come off the same fuse just further up the loom

So gauge back lights stay on when headlight switch is on and fuse is pulled ... obv using wire between HL switch and fuse... yeah nah fabrication foible?

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2 hours ago, oldrx said:

So gauge back lights stay on when headlight switch is on and fuse is pulled ... obv using wire between HL switch and fuse... yeah nah fabrication foible?

Positive switched headlamp circuit?

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I have a remote auto transmission cooler plumbed in the line before the cooler in the radiator tank, should I swap it over so its the other way round?  

Its cooling the fluid then heating it back up

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I would leave it as is. The warm-up cycle of the trans fluid from cold will probably be more effective.

Remember the radiator connections are a heat exchanger rather than a pure oil cooler, so you will probably maintain better minimum temp in cold conditions.

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45 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

I would leave it as is. The warm-up cycle of the trans fluid from cold will probably be more effective.

Remember the radiator connections are a heat exchanger rather than a pure oil cooler, so you will probably maintain better minimum temp in cold conditions.

 

I was kind of thinking along those lines when I connected it, I had a tube and fin cooler but went to a bigger stacked plate style and you can feel the difference through the rubber hose.

 

 

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How does one adjust the bite point on a hydraulic clutch? Mine is basically as soon as you touch the pedal, which doesn't really bother me, but I wonder if it is part of my problem with the clutch slipping under heavy load. Clutch plate and pressure plate were new less than a year ago and it's always been like that.

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Is there any free play on the clutch fork? Sounds like it's already pressing against the pressure plate for some reason. Wrong slave cylinder perhaps?

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Nah no fee play. It's the same slave and master, gearbox and flywheel as factory. When I fitted the new clutch I remember having to release the pressure (i cracked the nipple on the slave and it spurted). 

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Can you shorten the rod from the pedal to the master a bit. Sounds like it needs to go back a  bit to let the pressure out.

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