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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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Drill it out. Friction fit a plug. Redrill?

Plug may need some weld? Red locktite?

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Yeah I'd be scared of a plug set up as the wheel nuts would be fully located on the plug. You'd be totally relying on the plug to wheel join holding the wheels on the car.

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Weld. Machine for whatever wheel nuts suit the car, or whatever is available.
Plugs on wheel stud holes sounds kind of dumb.

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Why is my Nissan doing this? VQ30De.

Don't want to spend much $ or effort, but it would be easier to sell if it idled OK.

I did take apart the intake piping and clean the throttle and IACV with carb clean. Didn't help.

Starts as soon as the car is started (even from cold).

 

 

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typically it could be the TB or IAC. if you have cleaned them it may need a new IAC

 

also check vac hoses, a leaking vac booster can cause this. also a flogged out MAF

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^ Yup start with that. Smoke test if you can, spray brakleen around if you can't. Faulty PCV valves can also do funny things at idle too, pays to whip a new one in while you're at it.

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39 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Try unplugging the maf.

Doesn't help, just makes the up/down cycle faster.

Will look for suck leak.

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24 minutes ago, Yowzer said:

^ Yup start with that. Smoke test if you can, spray brakleen around if you can't. Faulty PCV valves can also do funny things at idle too, pays to whip a new one in while you're at it.

Gave it a good squirting around the throttle / intake / vac lines and no response.

Where is the PCV on this thing?

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19 minutes ago, kyteler said:

What about the vacuum line to the booster?

Took it off and plugged the port - no change.

I connected a vac guage to the port, cycles 18-20 (inHg I guess) right in the green zone.

I'll pull the IAC assembly off later and take a pic of it.

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I feel dumb asking this. I bought a few 5/16" x 1/8 BSP brass fittings the other day, but for the life of me I can't figure out what tap I need to buy. I'm sure I'm over thinking it, but nothing actually says 5/16" x 1/8 BSP.

 

Can someone tell me what I need to look for?

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5/16 must be one end, and 1/8 the other? 

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That sounds like a big taper to me, but I'll have a look when I get home from work!

 

Edit: It does actually make sense. I was getting all crossed up because I thought 1/8 must be a BSP thread pitch or something. Why isn't everything metric?

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What sort of fittings I assume 5/16 is a hose size? Then 1/8bsp is the thread size so just need a 1/8bsp or maybe 1/8bspt (tapper so it has something to tighten up into?)

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A uni-t ut210e just showed up in the mail today.

UNI-T-UT210E-TRUE-RMS-Digital-Clamp-Mete

 

It was $49.46 from Aliexpress and took only 9 days to arrive.

The best bit about it is that it reads up to 100A DC using the clamp. This should be really handy for troubleshooting stuff on a car. No more breaking the circuits or removing the fuses, just clamp over. The 2A setting seems to be accurate to about 2%.

 

It also does beeping continuity tests so that will also be nice.

 

The whole thing, including leads (in supplied bag) is small enough to put into a tool roll and keep it in your car.

 

Not a bad item.

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1 hour ago, ajg193 said:

A uni-t ut210e just showed up in the mail today.

UNI-T-UT210E-TRUE-RMS-Digital-Clamp-Mete

 

It was $49.46 from Aliexpress and took only 9 days to arrive.

The best bit about it is that it reads up to 100A DC using the clamp. This should be really handy for troubleshooting stuff on a car. No more breaking the circuits or removing the fuses, just clamp over. The 2A setting seems to be accurate to about 2%.

 

It also does beeping continuity tests so that will also be nice.

 

The whole thing, including leads (in supplied bag) is small enough to put into a tool roll and keep it in your car.

 

Not a bad item.

Will it read DC?

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