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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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5 hours ago, datlow said:

Block of timber to go over the intake just incase

 

 

That "FUCK!" he seez at the end  - hahaha... I so know that feeling. When something mechanical goes wrong, I'm not sure what but I know its bad.

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yep, quite common in production of small fiddly stainless stuff, not sure if anyone in NZ is set up for it though?

We have stuff sourced out of Europe that has extensive laser welding, very pretty and low overall distortion.

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I friend in blighty does it and among the jobs he's done was one where he  welded the fins back on to a 911 barrel (iirc.. I think it was a barrel, or something too costly to just replace) 

Does a neat job where there's very little room, no mess, no clean up needed. 

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On 29/06/2022 at 20:52, peteretep said:

Anyone dealt with laser welders? Seems interesting

 

This video they are welding 12mm plate which isnt ideal for it IMO, but seems like it would be legit for thin stuff. More talking about a working environment vs car work

 

Used quite a bit for tooling repairs in nz, farking amazing to watch on a big screen, tiny little beads can build up in like 0.1mm steps, was a game changer for fixing fark ups or repairs.

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Dunno if this is the right place to ask, but here goes.

IMG20220703223330_copy_2000x900.jpg.2c5d11f68c4570221c8c86b895ec1b7d.jpg

On the left we have one of my nice new heads for my engine rebuild. On the right is the old one. As it was 20 years ago I forget that the og one were flycut, the cleanish ring around the edge of the chamber. I think this was done to release another pony or two? Should I get the new ones cut the same? Any experience or knowledge on this?

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Does anyone have experience with getting a large dent out of the usually mostly flat bottom of a steel fuel tank?

It looks like someone has put a jack under the sd1 tank and it's dented up right where the pickup is and it's causing me grief. 

The dent is more or less right below the hole for the fuel sender but i could only fit something like a broom handle in (small hole, only for a sender not pump) and don't want to turn the underside into a dimpled golfball-like mess. 

I have seen videos where they block all the holes in the tank and then use compressed air to expand the tank.  

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That would probably work well. You can also fill with water and weld some pins on to pull the dent out

Depending on the shape of the dent and how stretched it is, a suction cup might also work. 

A shrinking disk can be useful if it keeps popping back in. You can make one from a pot lid. Sometimes you can just tickle the area and it will shrink just right to pop it out. Creates heat tho so not sure how I'd approach a fuel tank with that method (couldn't fill with water as you want the heat, spot welds probably best to shrink and fill with water) 

Probably not a good spot to put something inflatable In either

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9 minutes ago, kws said:

Does anyone have experience with getting a large dent out of the usually mostly flat bottom of a steel fuel tank?

It looks like someone has put a jack under the sd1 tank and it's dented up right where the pickup is and it's causing me grief. 

The dent is more or less right below the hole for the fuel sender but i could only fit something like a broom handle in (small hole, only for a sender not pump) and don't want to turn the underside into a dimpled golfball-like mess. 

I have seen videos where they block all the holes in the tank and then use compressed air to expand the tank.  

 

download (2).jpeg

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I havent got a photo of my tank because its always dark at the moment, but you can see a fuel tank in the photo attached. Its on the left, ahead of the axle. Mostly flat on the bottom. Mine has a large dent in the bottom, right at the back, like someone has lifted the car from it on a hoist or jack.

I guess i could try a plunger, but i have no idea how thick/strong the steel is

11863345_827494427367207_2004333449723358679_n.jpg

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10 minutes ago, 87creepin said:

Could also use a slide hammer with the glue on attachments. Works just like spot weld dent pulling. 

Oh 

Yeah got any old engine valves?

I have used those plus hot glue to pull dents before

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1 minute ago, Nominal said:

When I did that to a gas tank I took it to a man who mostly straightened it out using levers etc through the sender hole.

Was said man a local man that does this for money?

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On 29/06/2022 at 12:05, dmulally said:

Hi All,

Im looking at converting a small block chev to diesel. The only diesels I have played with have been on tractors and that usually consisted of me swearing a lot. 

I have acquired a 4BE1 from an Isuzu elf (I assume) but was pulled from a range rover. 

Before I do anything I want to floor test this engine. Can I get a couple of pointers on how to do this safely please? 

I was going to wedge on wood and hook it up to an engine crane so it doesn't flop over.

Questions: 

1. Is the fuel line going to the front of the injector pump the inlet and the one at the rear the return? Can I just throw them both into a jerry can?

2. Do I need an electronic lift pump in line or if I put the jerry up higher will that be enough?

3. I have no idea how to turn it off. There is a single wire coming off the injector pump. Is that the on/off switch and should I just put 12v to that for "spark"?

4. Why do I do this to myself? I could retire if it weren't for dumb shit projects. 

Thanks in advance! I'll film the first attempt to blow it up if anybody wants. 

 

 

 

 

Right then. Started first kick. Now to find a gearbox for it. 

 

 

 

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