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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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I feel like including the knackered batteries in the mix of this will do more harm than good. Would they even offer up the capacity you're needing from them? 

Purely for examples sake, this unit is used for 3D printers https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/computers/3d-printers-supplies/3d-parts-accessories/listing/3652425447?bof=0yiT1ElZ

Scrap the batteries to fund a 24v PSU

I imagine most PC stuff will be 12V.

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14 minutes ago, NickJ said:

Just checked all mine, largest is 200W and all 12V. I do have a spare 200W 24V supply if thats any use for testing?

Or, buy the 600W Ali express supply, by the time it turns up summer will be here and you can dump it in the pile of unfinished projects.

have recently bought 12v 30Amp unit, and very doubtful about its capabilities....... might wire up tomorrow to see if smoke stays in, as need heating in shed capsicums are sulking

 

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2 minutes ago, Bling said:

I feel like including the knackered batteries in the mix of this will do more harm than good. Would they even offer up the capacity you're needing from them? 

Purely for examples sake, this unit is used for 3D printers https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/computers/3d-printers-supplies/3d-parts-accessories/listing/3652425447?bof=0yiT1ElZ

Scrap the batteries to fund a 24v PSU

that's the 24v version of what i will try and keep the smoke in tomorrow

 

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2 minutes ago, smokin'joe said:

that's the 24v version of what i will try and keep the smoke in tomorrow

 

I've got a number of this type of supply off Ali, all work and provide rated power, quite hard to release the smoke.

Just designed to be inside an enclosure, exposed wires etc

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1 minute ago, Bling said:

12v would be much easier to sort in your case. I have a PC PSU I powered a car stereo from in the shed, 12V rail on them tends to be decent, well so long as you don't buy low end.

burning PSU's out, as each heater draws 7-8A, plus have cycle pumps and lighting.
30A will be a decent starting point, may need 2 of them

 

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2 minutes ago, NickJ said:

I've got a number of this type of supply off Ali, all work and provide rated power, quite hard to release the smoke.

Just designed to be inside an enclosure, exposed wires etc

even with a constant  load ? that's what killing the PSU's.

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I reckon a man of dylans talents could make it happen. 

Set it to start on a timer. 7am and the ld28 starts up, waking up the valley. The shed warms up as he eats his porridge. 

A dog barks in the distance. 

Valley life. 

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On 21/06/2022 at 23:06, cletus said:

Electric fans. 

Anyone have good or bad experience with decent brand ones?  

Spal, Davies Craig, derale etc

I've got 2x 10" fans on my car but they don't have enough flow to cool it. They were $80 cheapy ones that were meant to be 850cfm or something 

 

I'm hoping some better ones plus a shroud might fix my problem but I'd like to get experience from others as the 'good' fans are quite expensive (around $250 each) 

I can fit 2x11" fans which spal make if I offset them the right way. I'm stuck with 2 smaller fans as there's not enough room for a big single fan 

 

The alternative is go to a mechanical flex fan and make a shroud to suit but I'd rather have electric 

 

My fan/radiator sharn - stock copper rad and stock 1974 Fiat Magnetti Marelli electric fan > RX3 aftermarket radiator and spal fan mounted as a pusher fan in front of the radiator.

so pretty much same story as everyone else, factory fans are was better than any normal aftermarket stuff ive seen.

the depth constraint, is it all across the radiator or just in a few areas? some factory fans are only thick in the center where the motor is so if you can offset so the motor clears?

 

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On 25/06/2022 at 18:43, ThePog said:

This one is appealing to my sense of hackery and danger.

 

On 25/06/2022 at 19:44, ThePog said:

So that supply is 8 amps roughly? Could be worth a try.

To keep the batteries healthy on long term maintenance, you'se want reasonable accurate voltage set at, say 13.5V per battery, should be fine with a single supply at 27.0V in series. They'll naturally current limit as the become charged up.

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23 minutes ago, h4nd said:

 

To keep the batteries healthy on long term maintenance, you'se want reasonable accurate voltage set at, say 13.5V per battery, should be fine with a single supply at 27.0V in series. They'll naturally current limit as the become charged up.

I made an executive decision and bought a 24v 30a power supply.

One of the batteries was completely toast, the other not far off it. I used another to get it going but I would still need some more batteries plus something to charge them.

I have also discovered it doesn't like anything connected to the exhaust so might extractor fan it.

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Hi All,

Im looking at converting a small block chev to diesel. The only diesels I have played with have been on tractors and that usually consisted of me swearing a lot. 

I have acquired a 4BE1 from an Isuzu elf (I assume) but was pulled from a range rover. 

Before I do anything I want to floor test this engine. Can I get a couple of pointers on how to do this safely please? 

I was going to wedge on wood and hook it up to an engine crane so it doesn't flop over.

Questions: 

1. Is the fuel line going to the front of the injector pump the inlet and the one at the rear the return? Can I just throw them both into a jerry can?

2. Do I need an electronic lift pump in line or if I put the jerry up higher will that be enough?

3. I have no idea how to turn it off. There is a single wire coming off the injector pump. Is that the on/off switch and should I just put 12v to that for "spark"?

4. Why do I do this to myself? I could retire if it weren't for dumb shit projects. 

Thanks in advance! I'll film the first attempt to blow it up if anybody wants. 

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