Bling Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 I feel like including the knackered batteries in the mix of this will do more harm than good. Would they even offer up the capacity you're needing from them? Purely for examples sake, this unit is used for 3D printers https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/computers/3d-printers-supplies/3d-parts-accessories/listing/3652425447?bof=0yiT1ElZ Scrap the batteries to fund a 24v PSU I imagine most PC stuff will be 12V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 14 minutes ago, NickJ said: Just checked all mine, largest is 200W and all 12V. I do have a spare 200W 24V supply if thats any use for testing? Or, buy the 600W Ali express supply, by the time it turns up summer will be here and you can dump it in the pile of unfinished projects. have recently bought 12v 30Amp unit, and very doubtful about its capabilities....... might wire up tomorrow to see if smoke stays in, as need heating in shed capsicums are sulking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 2 minutes ago, Bling said: I feel like including the knackered batteries in the mix of this will do more harm than good. Would they even offer up the capacity you're needing from them? Purely for examples sake, this unit is used for 3D printers https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/computers/3d-printers-supplies/3d-parts-accessories/listing/3652425447?bof=0yiT1ElZ Scrap the batteries to fund a 24v PSU that's the 24v version of what i will try and keep the smoke in tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 12v would be much easier to sort in your case. I have a PC PSU I powered a car stereo from in the shed, 12V rail on them tends to be decent, well so long as you don't buy low end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 2 minutes ago, smokin'joe said: that's the 24v version of what i will try and keep the smoke in tomorrow I've got a number of this type of supply off Ali, all work and provide rated power, quite hard to release the smoke. Just designed to be inside an enclosure, exposed wires etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 1 minute ago, Bling said: 12v would be much easier to sort in your case. I have a PC PSU I powered a car stereo from in the shed, 12V rail on them tends to be decent, well so long as you don't buy low end. burning PSU's out, as each heater draws 7-8A, plus have cycle pumps and lighting. 30A will be a decent starting point, may need 2 of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 https://waveinverter.co.nz/shop/accessories/powersupply/powersupply-24v-20a/ Or maybe 2x PC power supplies feeding each of the batteries? Basically free from the dump shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 2 minutes ago, NickJ said: I've got a number of this type of supply off Ali, all work and provide rated power, quite hard to release the smoke. Just designed to be inside an enclosure, exposed wires etc even with a constant load ? that's what killing the PSU's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 8 minutes ago, smokin'joe said: even with a constant load ? that's what killing the PSU's. Pass, most of my use is below max load and cyclic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 "800W is only the theoretical power. Most of our customers are happy with the actual power of 72W" 1 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 13 hours ago, Nominal said: What you need is an ld28 with a 100a alternator on a run stand. Fuck. Great minds and all that. I was just gonna suggest rigging up a spare diesel engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 21 minutes ago, yoeddynz said: Fuck. Great minds and all that. I was just gonna suggest rigging up a spare diesel engine. Double the heat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 I reckon a man of dylans talents could make it happen. Set it to start on a timer. 7am and the ld28 starts up, waking up the valley. The shed warms up as he eats his porridge. A dog barks in the distance. Valley life. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 25, 2022 Share Posted June 25, 2022 +T and straight pipe FTW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 On 21/06/2022 at 23:06, cletus said: Electric fans. Anyone have good or bad experience with decent brand ones? Spal, Davies Craig, derale etc I've got 2x 10" fans on my car but they don't have enough flow to cool it. They were $80 cheapy ones that were meant to be 850cfm or something I'm hoping some better ones plus a shroud might fix my problem but I'd like to get experience from others as the 'good' fans are quite expensive (around $250 each) I can fit 2x11" fans which spal make if I offset them the right way. I'm stuck with 2 smaller fans as there's not enough room for a big single fan The alternative is go to a mechanical flex fan and make a shroud to suit but I'd rather have electric My fan/radiator sharn - stock copper rad and stock 1974 Fiat Magnetti Marelli electric fan > RX3 aftermarket radiator and spal fan mounted as a pusher fan in front of the radiator. so pretty much same story as everyone else, factory fans are was better than any normal aftermarket stuff ive seen. the depth constraint, is it all across the radiator or just in a few areas? some factory fans are only thick in the center where the motor is so if you can offset so the motor clears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 On 25/06/2022 at 18:43, ThePog said: This one is appealing to my sense of hackery and danger. On 25/06/2022 at 19:44, ThePog said: So that supply is 8 amps roughly? Could be worth a try. To keep the batteries healthy on long term maintenance, you'se want reasonable accurate voltage set at, say 13.5V per battery, should be fine with a single supply at 27.0V in series. They'll naturally current limit as the become charged up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 23 minutes ago, h4nd said: To keep the batteries healthy on long term maintenance, you'se want reasonable accurate voltage set at, say 13.5V per battery, should be fine with a single supply at 27.0V in series. They'll naturally current limit as the become charged up. I made an executive decision and bought a 24v 30a power supply. One of the batteries was completely toast, the other not far off it. I used another to get it going but I would still need some more batteries plus something to charge them. I have also discovered it doesn't like anything connected to the exhaust so might extractor fan it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 Hi All, Im looking at converting a small block chev to diesel. The only diesels I have played with have been on tractors and that usually consisted of me swearing a lot. I have acquired a 4BE1 from an Isuzu elf (I assume) but was pulled from a range rover. Before I do anything I want to floor test this engine. Can I get a couple of pointers on how to do this safely please? I was going to wedge on wood and hook it up to an engine crane so it doesn't flop over. Questions: 1. Is the fuel line going to the front of the injector pump the inlet and the one at the rear the return? Can I just throw them both into a jerry can? 2. Do I need an electronic lift pump in line or if I put the jerry up higher will that be enough? 3. I have no idea how to turn it off. There is a single wire coming off the injector pump. Is that the on/off switch and should I just put 12v to that for "spark"? 4. Why do I do this to myself? I could retire if it weren't for dumb shit projects. Thanks in advance! I'll film the first attempt to blow it up if anybody wants. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 The switch is the fuel solenoid. It should be closed when no power, so needs volts to open the fuel supply The line on the banjo fitting is the return 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted June 29, 2022 Share Posted June 29, 2022 Right this makes sense. Now to the other questions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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