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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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Re driveshaft, easy way to think if it.  is the shaft is going to be spinning the same rpm as engine in 1:1 gear. (usually 4th)    Then punch the numbers into that calculator @cletus posted.  

Single piece becomes a bad day fast,  on a high rev engine that will be generally matched with short diff ratio.  if going to use it on the track etc 

I usually avoid running anything up on dyno in 4th gear  with a single piece that's going to pull some revs

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19 hours ago, 87creepin said:

Anything in particular to look for when buying an older diesel with 250-300kms? It's a naturally aspirated 1998 Ford Transit 

And also best sites etc to get parts for euros?

Major 2 are When were the injectors serviced last and has the IP had a rebuild. how difficult and rattelly it is on startup stone cold is a good test to see what itsb fuel system is like. then theres the usual of general servicing (oil, filters, coolant, etc). Those Era transits also use bolts to hold the manifold on which snap off in the head so an exhaust leak is a bit of a major to fix. There is a company here in christchurch called All Transit Parts which would be a useful contact for spares. Rear brakes trake a hammering for some reason too. 

 

I refuse to work on them now as most are neglected pieces of shit. Especially if theyre a camper van. 

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Ideas? 

 

I removed the valve cover and put new seal and plug seals in a better looking one 

I removed the rocker towers and replaced the plug hole o ring under them

Pulled the distrubutor and built one out of 2

 

Problems that happened. 

1. The distributors are more or less impossible to get apart having not been touched for 30 years, the magnetic pickup bracket got a little bent in thr process, so isn't perfectly aligned with the magnet. I am certain it's not coliding

 

2. The distributor only goes in one way on the slotted gear

EXCEPT WHEN IT DOESNT

There's just enough play it in that the distributor will go back on without forcing it, except the cam and distributor shafts will be aligned off centre. I ran the engine for about 8 seconds before noticing the distributor was dancing in place 

 

I Don't think the cam bent or the towers were damaged, it all turns over fine and clearances seem to be consistant

 

3. There's no data available online at all, even the firing order isn't written anywhere. I have followed some torque values from the American g20 engine (which has hyd tappets) for the rocker towers bolts, which seam to be the same as other Hondas (m6 12n.m m8 22n.m).

After the distributor debarcle I took it all off and looked for damage, and then reinstalled and torqued. 

 

There's no valve clearance data anywhere so I measured the gaps beforehand have looked at other Hondas of the era. 

My original measurements seemed to be 0.25 In, 0.35 exh

That resulted in that noise within about 10 seconds of running 

 

I went off accord clearances. 0.25 in, 0.30 exh. 

That gave me about 5min before the noise in the clip. 

 

 

I thought it sounded like something hitting the valve cover, I tried the original and then without a valve cover and it's making the same noise

- think I will go 0.05mm tighter on the Inlet and see what happens? It's not the noise I'd expect from a not terribly loose rocker. It could be bouncing off the cam? 

 

The sound seems to be coming from the #4 valve train area but I can't pinpoint it, sometimes it seems to come from under the injectors/intake. But in saying that before I went a bit tighter on the exhaust clearances it did seem to jump around more and was doing it at idle. 

I'm pretty confident it's not the sound of a tensioner when I back off the revs

 

TLDR wtf is this noise, how tight do you think I can make these Honda valve clearances.

 

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On 01/06/2022 at 19:20, GregT said:

Done a compression check ?  If a valve's stuck open you may have a bent one.

Did the valves a little tighter and got it fully up to temp before it started doing it again. With the engine warm I turned it by hand and can repeat it

#10 exhaust valve occasionally sticking open. Itl stay down for some degrees more than #9 and then spring back up

Don't have a long enough dangle end on my comp tester and leak down tester got cross threaded in the damaged thread of my other Honda. Typical. I'd like to see if its leaking down out of that valve now when closed or if its just sticking

I'd really like to not pull the head, gasket in nz is about $550

Ifni can use the American 2.5 head gasket that's about 100. Might check amayama

 

It was kinda gummy and crusty when I first opened it, maybe some varnish moved........ Wasn't doing it when I first got the car but its sat about 6 months since then, maybe even carboned up from short running during mine and previous owners ownership. The plugs are ancient as well. 

 

Surely some morey's fed in at 8000 rpm will fix it. 

 

Might pull the valve train again and see if I can spot where it's catching. Might just park it back under a tree

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On 01/06/2022 at 19:55, chasinthemirage said:

Need to replace the inner rack end on the EA, never done one before and haven't got a manual yet. Is there a flat on the steering rack shaft itself or do I just screw the new rack end on and nip it up? Bit worried about putting too much twisting force on the rack itself.

 

Fairly sure I have two copies of the Haynes manual for EA-ED coons. Would you like the spare one if I can find it?

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2 hours ago, tortron said:

Did the valves a little tighter and got it fully up to temp before it started doing it again. With the engine warm I turned it by hand and can repeat it

#10 exhaust valve occasionally sticking open. Itl stay down for some degrees more than #9 and then spring back up

Don't have a long enough dangle end on my comp tester and leak down tester got cross threaded in the damaged thread of my other Honda. Typical. I'd like to see if its leaking down out of that valve now when closed or if its just sticking

I'd really like to not pull the head, gasket in nz is about $550

Ifni can use the American 2.5 head gasket that's about 100. Might check amayama

 

It was kinda gummy and crusty when I first opened it, maybe some varnish moved........ Wasn't doing it when I first got the car but its sat about 6 months since then, maybe even carboned up from short running during mine and previous owners ownership. The plugs are ancient as well. 

 

Surely some morey's fed in at 8000 rpm will fix it. 

 

Might pull the valve train again and see if I can spot where it's catching. Might just park it back under a tree

If you can get that valve to seal enough to put an air line on the plug hole, you may be able to remove the valve spring from that valve. Once that's done penetrating oil on the stem and move it up & down till it frees. If it won't seat enough to hold air, it's probably bent in which case it's head off.

Been through all this with old Jags. It's very common to have a valve stick when one's been sitting - then you bend it.

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Il probably build a dam around it and soak the stem in moreys or atf while I do more important things. By that time il have a working fitting to use and il see what the leak down is. 

Probably it's an interference engine, but il hold out hope that it hasn't interfered in this case. It doest visually sit any lower than the other valve so it's not sideways at least

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