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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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12 minutes ago, Carsnz123 said:

Fuel pressure reg? Clamp off the return line and see what happens. 

Good idea, but didn't help :)

 

20 hours ago, AllTorque said:

Is your air flow meter covered in K&N oil? 

Maybe? Would that kill it dead just like that though?

 

Have listed it on FB Marketplace so will hopefully be someone elses problem soon.

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I heard a story of some diesel 4wd where someone had blown compressed air back into the fuel tank, (to clear the line) and it blew the filter sock off the pickup tube. This then floated around the tank, occasionally covering the pick up tube causing a very annoying intermittent stalling fault. 

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59 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Maybe? Would that kill it dead just like that though?

Probably not, but it’s easy to spray some cleaner on it. Or try starting it with the AFM unplugged. Some cars will start without them.

Another thought, crank sensor?

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Would you need an aftermarket ecu if you were to install ITBs? I'm worried that derestricting the intake side of things so much could cause a lean afr and detonation, especially under wide open throttle situations. 

I'm guessing that possibly using an AFR gauge (not obd2) and maybe fuel pump+injectors would need to be upgraded. Or run on 98 octane? 

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What car are you talking about and why do you want ITB's? If you just want sound put a poddy on :P 

 

 

Anyone successfully used one of these turds to fold up a spot welded wheel arch? Talking exterior panel is spot welded to the inner fender every 50mm or so. Hoping to just ease the fold from being horizontal up to vertical without the arch shape changing. Folded section will be shorter than external lip, so wondering if easing it slowly with the tool will provide enough stretch to not change factory line. Alternative is pie slicing the flange and rewelding it back together. Not even sure on the legality of that come cert time. Although it would work, it's a lot of work. Using the below tool would save a lot of work though. So just wondering if people have had much success with them. In before use a baseball you pussy.

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On 19/06/2021 at 13:58, Nominal said:

So, Pajero's

FInally bodged another fuel pump into this heap today but still no go. Fump is running OK - fuel flows out the return line while cranking.

It stopped running just a few hundred metres from home a couple of weeks back with no drama, 1/2 power for a bit, then recovered, then no power :(

Anything else easy to check? 

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Has it got a poked computer?

That's another classic mitsubishi thing to do. Are the injectors cycling?

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11 minutes ago, cletus said:

I've found the best method as per @sheepers said once, is taking your time with a hammer and just tapping it up slowly 

Panel / rubber hammer did cross my mind, if that works then i'll do that. Just thought the roller may stop the guard pulling in a bit as the inner section shortens. Will put a straight edge on the arch and give it a try. Cheers

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5 hours ago, 87creepin said:

Would you need an aftermarket ecu if you were to install ITBs? I'm worried that derestricting the intake side of things so much could cause a lean afr and detonation, especially under wide open throttle situations. 

I'm guessing that possibly using an AFR gauge (not obd2) and maybe fuel pump+injectors would need to be upgraded. Or run on 98 octane? 

short answer - yes

itb's will need a vastly different tune to a single throttle

 

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9 hours ago, Valiant said:

Has it got a poked computer?

That's another classic mitsubishi thing to do. Are the injectors cycling?

It's been raining outside so I haven't checked that. Hopefully someone will give me $1500 and take it away. Still has WOF and REG even.

And a brand new windscreen

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