kws Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 These disposable welding gas bottles, are they any good? Do they last any sort of reasonable time? I have a couple of small patches of rust I need to weld, and have no gas/regulator at the moment and thinking of changing from flux cored to solid wire for this job just to have better/cleaner welds. https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/O0185 I know the bunnings side D bottles are good value, but $129 + $240 (plus regulator) is a bit much for me since I use the welder once every couple of blue moons. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 They might last one panel, I have used them, but imo get the D bottle and have it for every small job for the next 2 years I think I used one to do a set of 4 cyl headers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 20 hours ago, kws said: These disposable welding gas bottles, are they any good? Do they last any sort of reasonable time? I have a couple of small patches of rust I need to weld, and have no gas/regulator at the moment and thinking of changing from flux cored to solid wire for this job just to have better/cleaner welds. https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/O0185 I know the bunnings side D bottles are good value, but $129 + $240 (plus regulator) is a bit much for me since I use the welder once every couple of blue moons. They're terrible. I used them for a while but they just don't last worth a shit,, far more cost effective to go a proper bottle. If you really want to try it I can send you a regulator for them. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 I welded on one exhaust flange and it was 80% empty when o had to get one in an emergency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 So in other words, not worth the money. I suspected as much. Thanks guys. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 Yeah it's bad value for sure. One of those 2.2L cylinders probably costs the same as a full size cylinder refill. Costs a bit more up front, but having a cylinder tucked away means you can weld as much as you want. Could pick up a cheap reg off trademe and a cylinder off there too for not silly money. Test every 5 years ~$100 (with co2 fill) and no other costs other than refills. If you really have super limited need, just give someone a Rutherford to bring their welder over and get it sorted. Rental options when I first started were super limited, so I purchased a cylinder. The bunnings deals seem all good now. $250 gets you a 5KG co2 cylinder delivered (trademe) plus ~$70 for reg delivered (trademe). Bit more than the above combo of 2.2L cylinder + a reg. But you'd get 50 times the repairs done i'd say. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 Yup I fizzed thru a couple of those disposable co2 bottles very very quickly then just got a rental Surely you can rent a full bottle local and just return it after a month or 2 ? 16$ a month and about 60$ for a fill is what I’m paying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 How much pressure should I put in some 10 ply light truck tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Well that's all gonna depend on how much weight you plan on putting on them. Go 4.5bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Check the tyre manufacturer because they can vary wildly depending on the size and application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 On 18/11/2020 at 19:15, Roman said: Dear people-who-know-things, Any advice on a valve spring removal tool? Just to follow up, I'd been massively overthinking the complexity of this job. (with head on the bench off motor) Step 1: place stuff under the valves to stop them moving/bending Step 2: place a 19mm socket with a magnetic thing on the inside, on top of the retainer Step 3: hit it with the hammer step 4: Valve retainer thing is off Too easy Now to try the rope trick and get a knot stuck in it Might try on a pick a part engine first haha. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 How do you get it back together without the tool though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 15 minutes ago, ajg193 said: How do you get it back together without the tool though? Assembly is the reverse of disassembly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 Just press it on without the magnets and clicks in place 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 then hit it with the hammer ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 you press down on it with the hammer, then pull it away real fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Ling, but I've stripped heads for scrap before and just beat the retainers with a hammer on a crooked angle to ping the collets off. (Wear safety glasses) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Ive just welded some patches in to remove some rust, and need some bog to smooth out the fuck up from the previous person that tried to fix it. I've never used bog before, so what is the go? I need to fill and level out where the patches are, and its currently bare metal. Some sort of rust inhibitor would be nice, but dont know if thats a thing? Do i zinc paint it before bog? Im not filling/bridging any holes, so I guess a normal "filler" is ok and I dont need metal or fibreglass? Just this ? https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/septone-septone-car-filler---500g/1332.html#q=filler&lang=en_NZ&start=4 And then its a case of sand sand sand, prime, sand, paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Paint thread But I use evercoat liteweight filler over a coat of sealer I seal the bare metal with durepox -epoxy urethane primer Then I have a couple different carmaster primers/primer fillers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Bog is very hygroscopic. It pulls moisture from the air. Where its laid over bare steel, the paint eventually gets a chip/scratch in it, which allows moisture into the bog. The moisture lies against 5he steel, which enables corrosion. As steel rusts it spawls/swells. This forces the bog away from the metal surface. The filler splits, and more water gets in. Nutech is somehow different, and doesnt absorb moisture. But I'd just epoxy it before adding filler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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