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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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7 hours ago, sr2 said:

We probably need to agree to disagree on this one, I'm not sure what you mean by 'deadband'; if there is excessive pedal travel surely it should be addressed - not just disguised by fitting a larger diameter master cylinder?

Oh I'm not suggesting 'excessive' but I like less travel than is on offer on a perfectly operating braking on just about any oem factory car I have driven.

Just like drive by wire throttle can have some lag, or even a cable throttle with too much slack from the bracket to butterfly you provide an input and you don't get quite enough result. It right up with reducing clutch engagement windows - man I can't stand a long lazy clutch window. 

This method is not designed to mask excessive pad knock off or a sticky caliper slider, or any other defectice component in the system. All it means is braking starts to occur as soon as you go near the pedal. Say you need grandma to have 15mm of pedal travel because she's not paying attention, I would prefer 3 or 4mm because I am. 

Especially if one has happened to increase brake caliper piston area or piston count. 

The one exception is a ferrari 458 which I drove once, which felt like it had a brake priming system (no idea if they actually do or not) as soon as you went near the pedal with your big toe there was some braking effort on offer. Very cool

 

I appreciate your experience with oem and race braking setups leaves you with a solid understanding of what works for you. 

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22 hours ago, sr2 said:

Good choice, interested to know what rotors are you running with them? 

Forgot to answer this bit. I don't recall what they were off now, I got the whole lot as a kit from MRP, they are redrilled and came with shims to suit my application.

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can somebody recommend me a fuel pump for my datsuns?

one of them has an inline electric pump, the inline vibrator type ones, that has been running sweet for a long time.

I bought another cheap one and it lasted a disappointingly long 45 seconds. @Carsnz123 was lol at my misfortune.

the trademe seller refunded me the money straight away and said dont bother sending it back, obviously no great loss...

 

I dont want a mechanical one as they are often parked up for ages, and the carb dries up so i have to crank for an eternity to get fuel back to the carb.

also dont want one that sounds like your mums half flat vibrator like my current one

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I havent powered mine up to hear how it sounds, but Subaru leone have a low pressure fuel pump.  They're very hard to find on the car if you're pulling one off a wreck. (I had to ring Subaru Richard to ask where the fuck on the car Subaru hid them)  But as a lift pump for my 620 I've bought one off rock auto. Typical rock auto prices too. I think the second cheapest one they had (I never buy the very cheapest one off there, well, almost never) was like $23usd.  And its brand new. Someone once.said that those low pressure pumps get less rowdy once they're dead headed. They drop.back to a slower speed.

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I have ~20 years digital photos across cameras, videocams, windows, linux, iPhone, iMac, Android, google-photos etc (includes some cars, oddly enough).

Collating it but keeping albums and other meta-data has been a ball-ache I've been putting off.

PickBackMan (paid) looks like the bill. Will update if anyone interested.

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I sourced garnet for mine back in the day, just got it from one of the local sandblasting places. Just wanted to avoid using glass and the nasty dust that creates. Not that you should breathe any of them. Long time since i've done any though, but from memory garnet was better. It also can be reused more than some other products. Alistair isn't active on here nowadays, but he knows all about the blasting media game.

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Radiator question time.

If I want to spend $500+ I can get mine rebuilt with copper / brass core. I don't really want to spend that much though. Just so many things left to buy to finish the car. So what is the deal with using aluminium radiators? I keep seeing things about electrolysis this and that. I can get an uprated Fenix aluminum radiator for much less. Cooling level isn't going to be a problem, i'm only making 14HP. Is it a case of flush the system 99 times, then fill with demineralised water / coolant mix and good to go? Or are there reasons I shouldn't be looking at aluminium?

Engine in question is typical 80's toyota lump. Has a bunch of cast aluminium parts already attached. When replacing waterpump / thermostat housing I didn't notice any corrosion on them.

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Aluminium will be fine, I ran one of those fenix radiators in my evo for a decade or so with no issues, the drain bung was sub par in my opinion, so I would suggest finding a friendly aluminium welder to weld an An fitting onto the drain port and fit a cap. 

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