SOHC Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 I found the camera will stay on but stop recording if i turn the ignition off one click and stop the engine but the camera still has power from the cigarette lighter, The last camera worked well for 3 years but developed problems like I am having but also SD card slot problems @ghostchips can you try that camera i gave you and see if it stops recording? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 Anyone know who can convert rims to beadlockers in auckland? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 22 hours ago, Yowzer said: Do the cameras still freak out with the engine off? Another issue could be poor ignition coil earth or faulty coils. This causes a massive spike back through the 12V that can cause all sorts of haywire behaviour. Falcons for example are great for this and it trips out all the vehicle control systems. Honda's induce a spike into the crank angle circuit and causes the ecu to lose crank sync and ends up firing the wrong coil. Something like this could also freak the camera out. Non resistor plugs in a resistor plug engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Does anyone have any experience with silicon bronze mig welding? Was thinking about having a go at it as I'm going to cut the guards off the well side of my isuzu ute to weld on ones off a mu as they have a bigger flare, only thing is that a 5kg roll is $440, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Cut it over size and joggle a lip to go inside the wellside skin. Then PU adhesive it in with a handful of plug welds. I assume you want to use the sil bronze to keep the heat down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Yea was thinking with the bronze it would save a bit of heat and easier to grind flat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmuppet Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Just use solid 0.6 wire. lots of tacks, move around a heap, short welds to link tacks, lots of gentle hammering as the welds cool. What are you going to do about the fuel flap? I reckon that could look pretty cool. Good on ya. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 On 27/08/2019 at 09:09, SOHC said: @ghostchips can you try that camera i gave you and see if it stops recording? Ok, i report back that it works fine if you turn off the motion sensor. Otherwise it takes bumps in the road or driving into the sun & doing a Uturn to get it to start recording again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Drum Brakes - why do I keep having to bleed the damn things? Where is the air getting in - it seems to be at the wheel cylinders but hard to be sure......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Master cylinder drawing air in around the seals at the pushrod end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 I had much the same problem, I eventually installed new cylinders and have not been through the same issues, still unsure as to exactly why. Bore was in good condition, new seals and still leaked. Honed to be sure and new seals installed, leaked again, gave up and brought new cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Next time I have to work on them I'll pull the rear cylinders (fronts seemed fine this time, clamped the hose to the diff and they were all good) and have a look inside them. M/C is a bugger to get out so less keen on dealing with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 42 minutes ago, Nominal said: Next time I have to work on them I'll pull the rear cylinders (fronts seemed fine this time, clamped the hose to the diff and they were all good) and have a look inside them. M/C is a bugger to get out so less keen on dealing with that. Are they repro parts? Repro castings are/were porous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 On 30/08/2019 at 12:28, 00quattro00 said: Does anyone have any experience with silicon bronze mig welding? Was thinking about having a go at it as I'm going to cut the guards off the well side of my isuzu ute to weld on ones off a mu as they have a bigger flare, only thing is that a 5kg roll is $440, I got a 3 kg roll for about $50 of bronze wire, you have to use straight argon with it, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 On 01/09/2019 at 07:46, moparmuppet said: Just use solid 0.6 wire. lots of tacks, move around a heap, short welds to link tacks, lots of gentle hammering as the welds cool. What are you going to do about the fuel flap? I reckon that could look pretty cool. Good on ya. Was going to see if I could extend the filler hose other wise it will have to be filled in and moved to the ute position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 4 minutes ago, SOHC said: I got a 3 kg roll for about $50 of bronze wire, you have to use straight argon with it, Yea know about needing argon. Where did you get it from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 5 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said: Yea know about needing argon. Where did you get it from? I got it from Kedall welding supply in south auckland, I think they are gone now, I welded up a cracked bell housing and an engine block with it, I got the wire for welding bronze castings together but it was a different color 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 1 hour ago, tortron said: Are they repro parts? Repro castings are/were porous Not that I know of, Probably original, I haven't changed them in the 20 years I've owned it. IIRC I did swap the M/C with a spare that had been sleeved in brass way back when. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx7 Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 any tips / tricks on removing this damn filler plug from my gearbox? have tried grinding / filing nice(ish) and square shaped, but sockets/spanners still slip off and round it off again 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Drill it out to as big as you dare, the dissolve the steel with alum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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