SOHC Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Where in West auckland can i get a few short lengths of 4" exhaust tube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 Does PC related tech crap go here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 1 hour ago, h4nd said: Does PC related tech crap go here? As far as OS goes, this thread is pretty PC 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Just had to replace a frost plug that is only two years old and under 3000 miles because it had rotted out and of course it was between the gearbox and engine. Can someone educate me on why this may have happened? Engine was rebuilt at the time but for some reason I cannot recall now this particular plug wasn't a brass one, maybe availability of that size at the time but I imagine it still shouldn't rot that quick. Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 What was the coolant like? Any chance different coolants were mixed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Coolant was excellent and the owner said he had never topped it up, radiator was recored and engine was stripped and cleaned although I had to use old water pump as none were available, everywhere I can see in the system is still clean. No chance of mixing A/F as I buy it per car, an expensive way of doing it but it avoids possible mixing/wrong coolant added.It is a HC Viva. Luckily the leak started the day it needed a WOF because it is vintage car club car and were it to drop one on a rally I quickly get a bad name. Next service I think I'll smash out an easier to remove one just to check how its looking, can't think of anything else I can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Got a pic of the old one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Electrolysis - brass plug should fix that. Cavitation - a cavity behind the plug creating air bubbles, is the plug in deep enough? Coolant mix (but I doubt it) - no more than 50/50 mix, 30-40% antifreeze is best. Too much af to water can be acidic. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 can someone point me where I could get some templates to print off to make pie cuts in 4" tube to make bends? I cannot think of a way to do it as I only have grinders no way to clamp it at a set angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted August 4, 2019 Share Posted August 4, 2019 NZ pie cuts on Facebook do kits of precut bends ready to weld for not bad prices. Saves a lot of mucking around cutting 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 Ended up cutting a strip of paper that fitted around the pipe then fold it in half and cut tapering angles on it, worked well, It was confusing with all the talk about degrees and stuff that was unnecessary 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 I have a cheapish UniT clip on multimeter, which also does dc down to ~3mA. Holy shit this makes finding current leaks easy. Neighbour was getting a soggy battery. instead of all that undoing and inline metering with the other multimeter terminals, it was just: set to DC 2A scale hold near wire(s) to reset/calibrate for the moon's magnetic field clip around wires(s). 105mA 5 minutes to check all the wires on a 24V system. --wrong link-- Added advantage, you don't then forget to put your probes back in the usual meter terminals, to it doesn't blow up the next time you measure a battery /mains. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 You can also loop your test wire through the clamp to increase the reading if your meter does not go low enough. Eg loop it 10 times through the clamp to move the decimal place by 1 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 On 07/08/2019 at 10:41, h4nd said: I have a cheapish UniT clip on multimeter, which also does dc down to ~3mA. Holy shit this makes finding current leaks easy. Neighbour was getting a soggy battery. instead of all that undoing and inline metering with the other multimeter terminals, it was just: set to DC 2A scale hold near wire(s) to reset/calibrate for the moon's magnetic field clip around wires(s). 105mA 5 minutes to check all the wires on a 24V system. $35 https://www.banggood.com/UNI-T-UT202A-Handheld-Digital-LCD-DC-AC-Voltage-Current-Ohm-Tester-Clamp-Meter-Multimeter-p-1042321.html Added advantage, you don't then forget to put your probes back in the usual meter terminals, to it doesn't blow up the next time you measure a battery /mains. The one you linked is AC current only. Â I also have the DC one, it's an awesome little toy. (UT210E) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32956426086.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3fe74c4du2XSnc Except that listing only cost me $49 at the time. Only thing that you need to be careful of with the DC measurements is that the Earth's magnetic field/anything steel will interfere with the reading if you move it after you hit the zero button. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 How hard would it be to remove rusted wheel nut inserts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Machine them out and fit new ones? Â Or heat will probably do it, the wheels are alloy right. You could also use ammonium aluminium sulfate (alum at bin Inn) it will dissolve steel but should leave aluminium alone 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Mmmmm, just trying to factor in potential cost for some wheels I want to buy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 5 hours ago, kicker said: How hard would it be to remove rusted wheel nut inserts? In my experience they would still pop out fairly trouble free. Hopefully the surface underneath is OK enough to accept a new insert.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 Dissolve rust/iron in vinegar? The acetic acid shouldn't be able to get through the aluminium oxide skin (test on something equiv to check first!). I've seen a vid where a guy was doing this to free broken studs from an alloy block, just can't find the link at the mo sorry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Reactions_with_inorganic_compounds 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted August 18, 2019 Share Posted August 18, 2019 hey guys I have a couple of 2 wire DC motors I want to get plugs for, so they can be removed easily. I have tried bullet connectors but they just arent up to the task, and this isnt being fitted into a car so not really suitable. Whats the next step up in plugs, something screw together? Its for 24V 15A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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