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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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any cars out there with cheap air compressors from factory, e.g cars with factory air suspension. need a pump for a ARB air locker looking at options for onboard air. other option is to use my 5L dive cylinder as I have a bottle compressor, anyone have any thoughts cheers.

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Are they cheap?

LS400s are plentiful and worthless, a lot have been converted to coils coz the bags are way too expensive to replace, shouldn't be too hard to raid a compressor from one of them for a box of beer

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1 hour ago, MaxPower said:

any cars out there with cheap air compressors from factory, e.g cars with factory air suspension. need a pump for a ARB air locker looking at options for onboard air. other option is to use my 5L dive cylinder as I have a bottle compressor, anyone have any thoughts cheers.

 

I have a range rover with compressor, receiver all still in there. 

You're welcome to have the bits if you take them off.

I'm in Taupo.

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3 minutes ago, Ghostchips said:

I don't understand why the people cut the slab that way other than to prove it can be done.  If you tipped it on it's side you'd only be cutting through 80MM.

But if you had a curve to cut, that may work out easier than cutting on the small edge and then needing another operation to cut the radius.

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"Here is a brief overview of the injection project I have installed on the Morrie.

The car is a 59 or 60 (not sure) 1000cc engine. I haven’t had a the head off so can’t say if it has had any work or a rebore. I did drop the sump and its pretty tight on all the mains and big ends.

Engine was running rich and hard to start, before I tinkered and spark was poor. All the work described below took about 6 hours over a couple of weekends.

Removed grill and radiator to get at front pulley. I then installed a 24 tooth 150mm diameter trigger wheel by spot welding it to the back of the front pulley. I never had to change any hole diameters as the wheel was a perfect fit over the pulley flange.

Remove one tooth from the wheel before fitting so the computer can see a sync for TDC timing. I acquired two second hand Nissan fuel injectors and wiring plugs.

I modified the inlet manifold by boring holes horizontally directly inline with the two inlet holes in the head. I then welded a small block of aluminium to the manifold and bored to match the injectors so I could mount them.

I milled off the touch area between the inlet and exhaust manifold so that there was no heat transfer, its not needed now for de-icing as fuel injection won’t allow the fuel to pool there and we want the atomised fuel cold.

I capped the exhaust manifold with a stainless plate and used the existing four threaded holes. Now there is an air gap between the manifolds.

I stripped everything out of the carburettor, throttle slide, springs, needle valves and all the choke gear and levers from the bottom, no choke required with injection as the ECU measures engine temp and squirts more fuel when cold.

Doing this allows me to swap everything back if i want to and it also allows the use of the existing throttle butterfly for air.

I have mounted a TPS, (throttle position sensor) to the side of the carb on the butterfly pivot and it wires to the ECU giving me accurate throttle position.

Removed three lobes from the distributor points cam, we only need one for injector timing. removed the four spark leads and coil wiring."

 

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Replaced the single coil with two second hand Nissan wasted spark coils. Approx,  $20. You could leave the old coil in place and still trigger it from the ECU but I want a really good hot spark so also installed 4 new plugs designed for these coils.

The spark difference is massive and they really hurt if touched by accident.. :-( Now, all that I needed was a low pressure fuel system which consists of the existing old morris pump filling a small surge tank which in turn feeds a high pressure pump and small vacuum controlled fuel regulator to the injectors.

The bypass fuel  is piped back into the top of the surge tank which is mounted on the firewall to the right of the battery. I haven’t run a return fuel line back to the tank but simply let it circulate to the top of he surge tank which seems fine. I may run one yet as the tank accumulates air and needs a bleed about once a month.

So, what did I get for this destruction and mayhem of a perfectly, well nearly perfect fine old school design?

I put the car on a hub dyno and found an increase of about 6 BHP.  The engine runs much more smoothly at all revs and now revs out to about 5200 very easily. I have rev limited to 5200 as its my daughters car and I'm not sure what condition the engine is in.

We have measured fuel consumption and now get about 23% more fuel efficiency, leaner burn, no plug fouling, no petrol smell and starts in all wet and very cold weather as soon as ignition is cranked.  there is much more mid range torque and the car pulls smoothly up to about 110 km/h.

Another small benefit is we can get engine temp up to about 90 and regulate it properly: more heat, better fuel burn and efficiency. Also leaner and more efficient burn means less oil contamination.

The main and biggest cost was the Link Atom ECU at about $700, the rest of it was all second hand and scraps found lying about the shed along with a smudge of creative thinking. I

t was great fun, gave a great return on investment in my humble opinion and can all be reversed if needed. The cost will recouped in fuel saving and maintenance. Plus the extra power and torque makes it a now very motorway useable car without having to do anything to the engine internals. Future.. I plan to remove fan and install an electric which will run of the ECU when I want it to, this saves more power and keeps the engine in the temp range I want. I will run a return to the tank when I have got around to installing that hoist at home.

I have since installed a wide band 02 sensor in the exhaust manifold which I can tune from but this is not necessary and only because i wanted to see if I could do a better job of tuning.  I could have used a standard test 02 tool on the exhaust.

 

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