Bling Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I grabbed some the other day from tool shed, they seem to be lasting ok. Can't argue with the price really, 3 for $1.90, less if you are a club member. I grabbed 40, 80 and 120 grit. Cheap enough that I don't mind going through them. Says on the box wood and soft metal. Gets through sheet metal nicely. Birdshit welds take a bit more time. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 My powerfile came with some belts, they lasted all of 45 seconds each. I also bought some good bosch belts at the same time (about $9 for 3) and they lasted a good 15 mins to half an hour of run time each. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I get my belts from MyTools. They don't always have them available. But the green Zirconia belts are the only ones I've come across that hold together long enough to wear out before breaking. AFAIK, they are glued and taped. I use my power file mostly for cleaning up welds, and the sharp edges are pretty hard on the join. I tried the bunnings ones, but they fell apart so fast I may as well have put them straight in the bin. I've only ever seen the bosch belts in 60G, but I mostly use 40G for welds. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 On 13/01/2019 at 08:29, Testament said: Having not the right spanner for putting metric/imperial bolts in opposite thread holes and other surprises lay down that path in the future Can confirm this sucks. #RoverSD1life I'd still do it though. No need to make more work now, when you could use what you have at hand. Future you won't mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bronze Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 On 13/01/2019 at 11:07, The Bronze said: I'll know. The next guy. Fuck him. So went to the shed last night and had a fuck around, tried a Metric 8x1.25 in the hole to see if that'd be a good next step up, perfect fit. Think to myself "Oh, you're the next guy. Fuck me." and did a reassemble with the starter in and torqueing the bolt. But, it doesn't torque. Pull it out, look at the gunk in the thread. It's been filled with some sort of JB Weld/Knead It shit. So I'm looking for a 3/8 UNC tap. CarbideNZ look good but are in Palmerston North and I'd be keen to do it tonight. Anyone in auckland we'd recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 I recommend me in Papakura  3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 On 11/12/2018 at 06:03, tortron said: It'll come off the same fuse just further up the loom So gauge back lights stay on when headlight switch is on and fuse is pulled ... obv using wire between HL switch and fuse... yeah nah fabrication foible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 2 hours ago, oldrx said: So gauge back lights stay on when headlight switch is on and fuse is pulled ... obv using wire between HL switch and fuse... yeah nah fabrication foible? Positive switched headlamp circuit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 I guess yeah... back lights can wait -Â Im over wiring diagrams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Is there a park light fuse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 I have a remote auto transmission cooler plumbed in the line before the cooler in the radiator tank, should I swap it over so its the other way round? Â Its cooling the fluid then heating it back up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 I would leave it as is. The warm-up cycle of the trans fluid from cold will probably be more effective. Remember the radiator connections are a heat exchanger rather than a pure oil cooler, so you will probably maintain better minimum temp in cold conditions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 45 minutes ago, mjrstar said: I would leave it as is. The warm-up cycle of the trans fluid from cold will probably be more effective. Remember the radiator connections are a heat exchanger rather than a pure oil cooler, so you will probably maintain better minimum temp in cold conditions. Â I was kind of thinking along those lines when I connected it, I had a tube and fin cooler but went to a bigger stacked plate style and you can feel the difference through the rubber hose. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 How does one adjust the bite point on a hydraulic clutch? Mine is basically as soon as you touch the pedal, which doesn't really bother me, but I wonder if it is part of my problem with the clutch slipping under heavy load. Clutch plate and pressure plate were new less than a year ago and it's always been like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Is there any free play on the clutch fork? Sounds like it's already pressing against the pressure plate for some reason. Wrong slave cylinder perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Nah no fee play. It's the same slave and master, gearbox and flywheel as factory. When I fitted the new clutch I remember having to release the pressure (i cracked the nipple on the slave and it spurted). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Can you shorten the rod from the pedal to the master a bit. Sounds like it needs to go back a bit to let the pressure out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 No adjustments at the pedal end? There should definitely be some free play there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 I'll have a dig and see whats there. It's a cunt to get to but I've been meaning to as I have a squeak as well haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 21, 2019 Share Posted January 21, 2019 Hmm so there is a threaded rod going into the back of the pedal with a lock nut. Backed the local nut off and shortened the rod by threading it in a bit further. As soon as the pressure left the rod I thought sweet that's done it. But now the pedal is dead/does nothing/is super soft . I even put the rod back to where it was but nothing. Any ideas haha? Started the car in gear with clutch in but it drives off..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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