The Bronze Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Return from carb? Or from pump to tank? Is it just part of the emissions bullshit? I know I have breathers and a filter tank I disconnected with no ill effects in the XE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Thanks. Sounds like there is a relatively important (or not, cheers internet) return on the carb itself but the way its currently set up I haven't identified that yet.. But I'm referring to a return from The fuel pump itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Right, so all shnozzles accounted for on the carb, no return. Sweet. Weber advertises a pump in their site with a blurb saying it'll pump 2.5 - 4psi being fine for any weber carb. So, think I'll throw xc spec non-returned pump in and go from there 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 I had a non returning regulator on my car with bike carbs, was no problem. rot808's car is running standard fuel pump with bike carbs and no return either. I think most setups can handle no return without any major problems 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Is it ok to splice into head light wiring behind fuse box for VDO gauge back lights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 That's the typical place for lights on when lights are on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Yeah figured thats the go, dont think the tiny gauge lights will add much load to the circuit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Would it be tidyer to splice into your dash backlight wiring? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Umm dunno? Finding the bastard and getting to it sounds a lot harder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 It'll come off the same fuse just further up the loom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Whats the benefit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 If you have fancy dimmable dash lights or separate dash lights control you can use that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Fortunately Mazda hadnt got that wanky fancy in 73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Looking at buying an '89 BJ73 Land Cruiser. 5 speed manwell with a 3B. Only one small spot of rust I could find and seems to drive well. Yeah? Nah? Doesn't seem worth starting a thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Swb or mwb with frp top? They have a habit of rusting around the windscreen frame. 13bt would be so much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Mwb with the fibreglass top I'm pretty sure. The rust is in the inside of the windscreen frame. Yeah the 13BT one I test drove was heaps faster but also a lot more spendy. This is it here https://www.trademe.co.nz/1865177963 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdotlowe Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 7 hours ago, chasinthemirage said: Mwb with the fibreglass top I'm pretty sure. The rust is in the inside of the windscreen frame. Yeah the 13BT one I test drove was heaps faster but also a lot more spendy. This is it here https://www.trademe.co.nz/1865177963 They're so rad. Been looking at purchasing one too but man the prices have skyrocketed recently. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Have a good look at the chassis where the steering box bolts on, have seen a couple rust/crack there 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 I just helped a mate replace his front rotors on one the same, it has a bit of rott in the RHS sill. Not sure why (whether previous repair, or blocked drain) but worth checking the steel there just in case it's a common problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 2 hours ago, kdotlowe said: They're so rad. Been looking at purchasing one too but man the prices have skyrocketed recently. Yeah spendy wee rigs eh. I test drove a 13BT one which was heaps quicker but a bit rougher and also a lot more expensive. This one was incredibly slow, literally like driving a small truck instead of a car but felt like it had heaps of torque. I don't see it struggling to get me anywhere I want to go as far as access to hunting blocks, maybe just a bit of a pain speed wise. I didn't check behind the steering box but I might go back for another look, chassis and underbody looked good, bash plates and things hadn't been smashed like the last one I looked at. Sills had some surface rust but no dents, miles tidier than the last one. Quite keen but just a touch worried about how slow it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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