RUNAMUCK Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 I wish I. Understood what you're talking about. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 8 hours ago, ajg193 said: Woo the LPG Corolla now has a working fuel gauge. I jerry rigged an arduino nano with a linear hall effect sensor (sensing the magnetic float gauge on the tank) and a mosfet to drive the gauge. It's mega whorey though as all my electrical tools are up in Auckland and I'm taking power from the rear defogger to power the nano. And all of the wires are just out of a stripped extension lead so have mains AC colouring. I gave it a rough calibration by just moving the sensor around to get approximate levels (2/3 full tank), then went and filled the car up and the gauge dropped straight to empty - the analogWrite value went over 255 and looped back to zero. A quick fix in the code to limit the output to 255 and it was away laughing. Now to drive the car until the tank is almost empty and confirm the calibration at the lower end / I'm not sure if the gauge response is even linear. how is the sensor arranged with the magnetic float? I can only imagine a toothed wheel going past the sensor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 11 hours ago, peteretep said: how is the sensor arranged with the magnetic float? I can only imagine a toothed wheel going past the sensor There is some sort of float mechanism within the tank and a little circular magnet with a needle that you stick onto the tank that rotates to show how full the tank is. The hall effect sensor picks up the magnetic field (which changes as the magnet rotates towards and away from the sensor) and outputs a voltage that depends on the strength and polarity of the magnetic field. This kind of explains it: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimShadboltfan27 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Hey gang, can anyone Recommend a varnish to use for refurbing a steering wheel ? Keen to try a spray can varnish, is there a particular type to use depending on wood etc yeah nah cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 I used some from Bunnings, can't remember the name but still have the can in the shed, will dig it out. UV resistant is a good idea, my wheel wasn't even wood 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Likely threads on a new compressor tank? BSP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 5 hours ago, tortron said: Likely threads on a new compressor tank? BSP? Probably. What would be the alternative, NPT? Just crank it in tight and hope for the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 All the ones I dealt with were bspt, tho some of the Chinese pumps and nrv's were some weird (expensive to source locally) fitting that was used on digger hydraulics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willdat? Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Spring compressors - not something I need often, but keen to own. Where's the sweet spot of cheap/not shit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 3 hours ago, Willdat? said: Spring compressors - not something I need often, but keen to own. Where's the sweet spot of cheap/not shit? I have a set of these, freight might kill but when ordered with other junk more than suitable. https://ladapower.com/catalog/tools/lada-coil-springs-remover-type-3-detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 I have a set of these. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/listing-1674753530.htm?rsqid=5fc4da03f4924d639a4fc30a67ce6ff6 Not cheap, but successfully used them a couple of times now and havent died. I like the locking pins, gives some confidence that the spring cant just jump out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 Question for the professional automotive repair techs, When fitting a new starter (like a brand new unit) is it correct practice to apply any lube to.the starter pinion? I wouldn't want to risk contamination of the clutch. But should something be applied? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 27 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said: Question for the professional automotive repair techs, When fitting a new starter (like a brand new unit) is it correct practice to apply any lube to.the starter pinion? I wouldn't want to risk contamination of the clutch. But should something be applied? Just chuck it in dry. Should all be good to go out of the box. I only lubed stuff when reconditioning them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 I've replaced millions of starters and never lubed anything 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 I'll.slam it in dry then. Unlubed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Diodes. My very very limited understanding of these is they only allow current to flow one way? Say I have a 12v cell. And I want to keep it charged by taking a feed off a circuit. The circuit is only live sometimes. When it's not, I don't want the cell to feed power into that circuit. As it would both power it up needlessly, and further discharge the cell. Which defeats the purpose of being tee'd into it in the first place. Would placing a diode between where it's tied into the feed and the cell allow it to take charge, but keep the energy stored in the cell to do only the job it's there for? If so, what kind? @h4nd, I'm quite sure this is your field of expertise? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Yes but it depends on your current load. You start getting very pricey for diodes that can handle large current. Another way of doing it is put a relay in instead that's powered up by the feed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Yup. More detail helps with a recommendation. E.g, sizes of batteries, type of load, kind of supply / charger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 On 26/06/2018 at 22:31, Willdat? said: Spring compressors - not something I need often, but keen to own. Where's the sweet spot of cheap/not shit? I might be a bit late, but make some at school? I can take a photo of mine if wanted. I didn't make them, but they are solid as fuuuuck. I'd trust them over the ones you buy with cast hooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Power diodes is what you need. Solder a bunch of these in parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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