peteretep Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 If I were to only have one, it would be Mig, then tig. Mig is just a good all round solution, its not the best for everything, but easy enough to become reasonable at it, and it can weld 90% of stuff. I have a 180a mig, and while i have used it at max settings for welding 5mm to 5mm plate, I mostly use it in the middle/lower settings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Thanks lads, looks like priority is MIG, but might be nice to get one that does TIG too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 As above, mig for general glueing of all things. I have a 3 in 1. Worst part is changing bottles to change welding type. A couple of fabricators at work run hugong welders from duroweld. They are pretty cheap and have 3 year warranty and have been absolutely flogged with no failures. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Massive old crashweld mig does all my shitty mitsi rust repairs  A new one would take up like 1/10 the space tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 I always have the thought in the back of my head that there is more to go wrong with a 3 in 1 unit, in the lower end price range at least. I have a 180A BOC Magmate MIG, does everything I need. The plan was to get a TIG too, but I never really felt the need after getting the MIG. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 I like the idea of TIG, but realistically MIG would be all I need to glue some BLMC "steel" back together. Now to find a good unit at a good price. Have seen a couple of used MIG come up on FB, but either really old, or there was a Telwin unit on there but the duty cycle was stupidly low, 60% @ 80A, 15% @ 140A. Seems a bit weak compared to other units around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 OS goes through the welder yarn a lot. MIG is 100% the way to start out for fucking around on cars it’s easy and cheap to get going. You can start with a cheaper unit if that is your price point, but IMO just jump to around the $1000 mark and you can get a inverter MIG which are super lush to use. Yes you get the extra TIG functionality but most likely you will never be bothered to have two gas bottles to fuck around with it. The actual bonus is how lush these cheap inverter units lay down weld, it’s just better than a sub $1000 traditional setup. Usually you get finer control also. There is nothing extra to fuck out, there is no extra complexity to add the TIG and ARC functionally it’s just a bonus due to having the inverter deliver the juice. It’s literally a extra plug on the front and the torches will sit in the draw gathering dust while you MIG shit together all day. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 Oh and a inverter MIG of a decentish brand will hold its value if you need to get rid of it. The reason they never are for sale second hand is they move fast, usually your friend will want to buy it before you can list it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Have you got a wiring diagram for how it is currently wired - assuming it's mostly factory still? On mine the full current from the alternator to (or from) the battery goes through the ammeter (in and out of cabin) with the ignition switch feed teed off on the alternator side of the ammeter. The ammeter could be bypassed in this case by directly connecting the alternator feed to the battery. I think this is the situation you have - if the alternator output is connected directly to the battery then the ignition switch will only be handling current from anything connected to that, not full alternator current. What is still live in the dash with the ignition off, and how is it getting power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Yes, you shouldn't have the main feed between alt and batt going through your ignition switch. Had a squizz at a factory diagram and it looks similar to my ford system. Main charge cable goes through ammeter, with feed for lights, ignition, fused live, etc teed off between the alt and ammeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Dislike Chrysler wiring diagrams btw. Hard to follow! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 That doesnt look too bad. This is the one for my Rover  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Get it done Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 You should burn sections of it so its easier to read . Had a brief look over it but can't find the smoke outlet relay  2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Dodgy solutions question  I have a 2m length of 10mm thick steel angle iron I am trying to dress the lips so that it will sit flat when placed point up on a surface. (It's going to be the clamping section of my sheet metal folder, needs to be flat and flush with the sheet for a crisp bend)  Right now I have made some v blocks and attached them to an angle grinder, so I can place it in the V and slide it up and down and it will in theory grind both lips to a similar height and angle.  But goddam it's slow going.  Maybe a better/coarser disk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 I have also thought about adding an already 45 degree cut strip of some sort, but where would I get 2m of something suitable for not a lot of monies   If anyone wants to break their milling machine I'm open to that also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 3 hours ago, tortron said: Dodgy solutions question  I have a 2m length of 10mm thick steel angle iron I am trying to dress the lips so that it will sit flat when placed point up on a surface. (It's going to be the clamping section of my sheet metal folder, needs to be flat and flush with the sheet for a crisp bend)  Right now I have made some v blocks and attached them to an angle grinder, so I can place it in the V and slide it up and down and it will in theory grind both lips to a similar height and angle.  But goddam it's slow going.  Maybe a better/coarser disk? Could you just weld the angle to a length of flatbar? So the cross section becomes a triangle rather than an inverted 'v'. And.... you are building a sheet metal folder 2m wide? Pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 theres a half a thread on the other projects section adding some flatbar will be my plan b (still have to dress the front section to be the correct angle, and I want the flat "foot" to be 100mm deep, unfortunately the angle iron is longer on one side so I have to cut it down anyways) after I posted that I went and got a different disk fo rmy 230mm grinder and its going a lot better. Im going to go ahead and make a proper sled to hold the grinder at the right height (and some v blocks to mount the steel stock to my bench), the set up I tried was alright for proof of concept  Plus, then I can make multiple benders and sell them 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Drag it down the motorway late at night 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Skateboard mounted angle grinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Just now, mjrstar said: Skateboard mounted angle grinder? Sort of, but just a sled with adjustable height that attaches to the grinder handle bosses. I figure my bench is flat enough to use as a guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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