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3 hours ago, Adoom said:

Electrolysis ing.

Seeing how it does with the rusty bits on the bottom of the door. I've not bothered cleaning anything first.

Unfortunately, I didn't remember the measurements of the doors and the longer front doors are about 30mm longer than the planter box.

IMAG0547.thumb.jpg.d9dc477aba7b6e6b770787426d1a5560.jpg

Electrolysis is line of sight so you'll get better results with multiple cathodes around the planter box. 

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18 minutes ago, Carsnz123 said:

Electrolysis is line of sight so you'll get better results with multiple cathodes around the planter box. 

You mean anode. The cathode is the door. My anode is an 'L' shaped bit of re-bar that goes the length of the box. It could be better designed, but I threw this together in about 5 minutes.

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10 minutes ago, tortron said:

suspend the rod inside the door so it does the whole inside I reckon

I may do. This door isn't really rusty inside. Most of the rust is outside along the bottom where there is a c-channel to hold the rubber seal. Bonus, the baking soda/washing soda is making the waxoil stuff.....emulsify? and become easy as to just wipe off.

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On 20/01/2018 at 08:29, RUNAMUCK said:

Tech spam query

Does a clutch cover/pressure plate require and form of lube to work properly?  Obviously not like add a quart of oil every three months. But do the fingers require anything to aid their operation?

I ask because I've got one that is both rusty, and has generous amounts of black grot on it. I was thinking of banging it through a turbo wash before trying Seedy Al's trick with the citric acid. 

@Seedy Al

What was that citric acid called at the supermarket? And what ratio did you mix it at?

Hey sorry just saw this now. 

Yeah from super market in the baking area. Mine was in a small glass jar with a red lid.

 

As for ratio it seems kinda just do what ever spec. However one thing i read was about 1/2 ounce to 15 ounce of warm water. 

 

I didn't measure anything.  I just boiled the jug twice,  topped up the rest with cold water,  added the whole 100g jar and stired it up. 

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Just a heads up, you shouldn’t acid bath hardened steel parts I’m pretty sure. Obviously depends a lot on what hardened means but it can make shit go brittle and fall apart. Best used for panels and trim and quick surface cleaning. Soaking some mechanical parts is dangerous IMO, I tested a bunch of things around the shed and springs crumble and will snap after a good acid bath. High tensile bolts go real black and weird after soaking for awhile. It’s hydrogen embrittlement or something, people argue about it on the internet but something bad goes on with hard steel in acid baths.

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Hydrogen is super small, so it diffuses fast as bugger into stuff. Acid is a source of hydrogen ions, which is even smaller than H2 and will thus diffuse fasterer and buggerrer into stuff.

I'm not sure if they have come up with a be-all-and-end-all explanation of how hydrogen causes embrittlement in hard steeks yet.


Don't get high tensile bolts galved, same problem. I think this caused a window cleaning rig to fall off of a NY skyscraper at some point?

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On 1/22/2018 at 15:35, Spencer said:

Just a heads up, you shouldn’t acid bath hardened steel parts I’m pretty sure. Obviously depends a lot on what hardened means but it can make shit go brittle and fall apart. Best used for panels and trim and quick surface cleaning. Soaking some mechanical parts is dangerous IMO, I tested a bunch of things around the shed and springs crumble and will snap after a good acid bath. High tensile bolts go real black and weird after soaking for awhile. It’s hydrogen embrittlement or something, people argue about it on the internet but something bad goes on with hard steel in acid baths.

I had some high tensile bolts done in bright zinc and they snapped off like carrots

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On 20/01/2018 at 14:59, Carsnz123 said:

Electrolysis is line of sight so you'll get better results with multiple cathodes around the planter box. 

Trust me- this is a cool science project but the line of sight thing is the deal breaker. 

Buy a few bottles of vinegar and soak the bottom of the door..

Then soak in a baking soda solution afterward.

Vinegar is 100000% easier and better than Electrical methods

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I did a couple exhaust manifold in mums green bin. Lined the sides with steel rods and suspended the manifold in the middle. Left it hooked to a 6 amp charger for half a day. Took all the rust off no probs. 

 

changing the subject: 

Anyone here have experience welding cast aluminium? Was thinking of welding up the combustion chambers of a spare L26 head to bump up the compression. Factory is 8.8:1 and I want 10:1. Skimming it won't yield the results I want. 

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