flyingbrick Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 I wouldnt go wasting loctite money on loctite superglue. Been using all different brands for 20 years and havent seen a cyanoacrylate of any price fail to work as intended. And yer its great for sticking rubber! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 10 hours ago, flyingbrick said: I wouldnt go wasting loctite money on loctite superglue. Been using all different brands for 20 years and havent seen a cyanoacrylate of any price fail to work as intended. And yer its great for sticking rubber! Exactly this, anything cyanoacrylate will bond static seal o-rings just fine, trim square, bond (doesn't need much, but coat entire bonding surface) and rub back with 6-800grit wet and dry, done carefully its hard to see the joint. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 On 10/30/2017 at 12:57, SOHC said: They need to be 5 stud or they wont fit my hubs, I will check those places out, thanks. 10" ok https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/trailers/trailer-parts-accessories/other/auction-1465354146.htm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AALAWS Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 On 11/10/2017 at 20:34, Nominal said: Going to have a go at installing a windscreen in the wagon on Sunday. Q for the pro's @AALAWS @RB30VB I can only get a seal in a length, not molded. Should the ends be glued with anything or just a bit of windscreen sealer. Where's the best place for the join? I was going to go for off-centre at the top (as there is a joining piece in the centre of the trim so it's not as well locked in by the (wide) SS trim there. For the back glass I've had some new pieces cut from laminated glass. This is a bit thicker than the toughened glass that was there. The seals are new, do you think they'll work out OK? Yup as said above - Superglue on the joins is the go......you can get the join looking seamless with some accurate guts and glueing. As long as the thicker glass still sits nicely in the rubber without it spreading the channel you should be all good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Thanks for the advice. The superglue worked fine. We managed to get the windscreen and one side window in on Sunday. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30VB Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Bit late to the party but AALAWS is on the money, bit of glue.. Personally I put joins at the bottom... that way if its not super watertight it acts as drainage rather than a potential leak.. A mastic sealant around the rubber and glass just to be certain as british stuff is always a bit wobbly/leaky... Looking awesome mate! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 I've been looking into electric water pumps again, as I think they're an interesting idea. (Benefits of fuel economy / power / etc are small or non existent but its something interesting to play with) So doing some internet nerding, popular pumps are the Davies Craig models. A lot of reported failures and reliability issues, and the suggested setup method is to remove the thermostat and when the engine is below temp it doesnt pump at all. Which is dumb for getting coolant hot spots in the motor and I've seen people at trackdays have problems with these for this reason. DC gave one of their pumps to autospeed.com to test, and the test results somehow indicated that the pump was garbage, and DC threatened legal action towards autospeed if they published the artcles. Interesting! There's no further clarification on test results obviously, but not a good sign. So digging a little deeper it looks like even if the DC pumps do flow at their specified rate it's way lower than what a mechanical pump achieves. Sooo bit more digging and a 3rd gen prius with the hybrid iteration of the 2ZZ engine (I considered a 2ZZ) has an EWP from factory. As it turns out, its a big fucker and it needs to run on the 49(?) volt system rather than 12. So not much chance of retrofitting one to a 12v system, and it seems an indicator that a 12v system probably isnt great for EWP. Also hints at the flow rate of the DC pumps when they only draw 6 amps or whatever at 12v. Conclusion: I'm fine with a mechanical water pump haha. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Also I thought "Oh cool since Toyota use one on a factory car there must be a reliable option" But some of the Prius had a recall over one of their EWPs (for the hybrid system not engine one) failing haha. And before I realised they are 48/49 volts or whatever, I was wondering if it would be easy to get a pump and housing from a wrecker to look at the shape of it. But it seems they sell like hot cakes because they shit themselves. Even though only in a ~2010 onwards car. So in this case I will resist the urge to fix something that isnt broken. (for now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 If I were to do an EWP (ignoring reliability issues) I'd build an adaptor that bolts to the factory pump location with water inlets / outlets to the pump. That way it can use the factory thermostat / bypass system and then should function similar to factory. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 out of interest, do they run on a whizz-bang computator? do you buy an aftermarket controller box? or do they work well enough on a basic thingy like a rad fan does? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Depends on how you set them up. The Davis Craig units can run off a controller of some sort that modulates the speed based on temp, but any decent aftermarket ECU would be able to incorporate a waterpump control too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 On the search for rear callipers to put discs on the Niva, standard conversion is with Fiat 125/132 etc but being they are getting hard to find is there a modern vehicle that offers an easy alternative? Plan to use Niva front discs, so just need a suitable calliper to put on an adapter plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Today's dumb question Are air shocks still a thing? Over the years I've parted out quite a number of vals which had them fitted. But most of the time they were pretty well fucked/past their best/didn't hold air anymore. Do they even still sell them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Yes, I got a new set of air shocks for the van ex USA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 You can still get them, I looked on rock auto recently for some I have a couple of 12v compressors and solenoid valves, I was considering fitting some in the val 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 do i bother with anything other than 15w40 castrol gtx modern engine for my 1988 twenny debt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 On 11/17/2017 at 12:48, Roman said: I've been looking into electric water pumps again, as I think they're an interesting idea. (Benefits of fuel economy / power / etc are small or non existent but its something interesting to play with) So doing some internet nerding, popular pumps are the Davies Craig models. A lot of reported failures and reliability issues, and the suggested setup method is to remove the thermostat and when the engine is below temp it doesnt pump at all. Which is dumb for getting coolant hot spots in the motor and I've seen people at trackdays have problems with these for this reason. DC gave one of their pumps to autospeed.com to test, and the test results somehow indicated that the pump was garbage, and DC threatened legal action towards autospeed if they published the artcles. Interesting! There's no further clarification on test results obviously, but not a good sign. So digging a little deeper it looks like even if the DC pumps do flow at their specified rate it's way lower than what a mechanical pump achieves. Sooo bit more digging and a 3rd gen prius with the hybrid iteration of the 2ZZ engine (I considered a 2ZZ) has an EWP from factory. As it turns out, its a big fucker and it needs to run on the 49(?) volt system rather than 12. So not much chance of retrofitting one to a 12v system, and it seems an indicator that a 12v system probably isnt great for EWP. Also hints at the flow rate of the DC pumps when they only draw 6 amps or whatever at 12v. Conclusion: I'm fine with a mechanical water pump haha. On 11/17/2017 at 15:11, Firetruck said: If I were to do an EWP (ignoring reliability issues) I'd build an adaptor that bolts to the factory pump location with water inlets / outlets to the pump. That way it can use the factory thermostat / bypass system and then should function similar to factory. we have been running DC pumps on our speedway cars for years. Always with a thermostat and proper bypass. the pumps are on flat out all the time We only had issues when we hard mounted the pump onto the end of the block and the vibration at 10,000+ caused the wires inside the pump to snap. happened 3 times in 2 meetings before we moved the pump and have had no problems since. the controllers they make are just pwm controllers that slow the pump when its cold so like Dave said, its bad for ya motor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 kind of irrelevant but mates run a pump salvaged from a F&P dishwasher in the inorganic rubbish collection powered by a dick smith 12v to 240v inverter - this is in addition to the rover/Leyland hope and pray paddlewheel on the front the the p76 motor in their offroad Suzuki 410 - this is to get flow to the v12 jag radiator mounted in the rear door. just a manual switch on it. cooling was never a problem again after that was added. plenty of other problems though! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 pics please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 On 11/19/2017 at 10:46, NickJ said: On the search for rear callipers to put discs on the Niva, standard conversion is with Fiat 125/132 etc but being they are getting hard to find is there a modern vehicle that offers an easy alternative? Plan to use Niva front discs, so just need a suitable calliper to put on an adapter plate. The heaviest car that I've found that still uses a disc operated handbrake (so handbrake built into caliper rather than seperate drum) is an SW20 MR2 or I think an FD RX7 maybe had similar. I'm in a similar boat as my rear brakes are too powerful/big and I have to turn them almost completely off using a proportioning valve. I think I'm going to check out AW11 MR2 rear calipers or maybe AE82 etc. I saw a fairly modern volvo something something that had a really nice light looking alloy caliper on the rear with handbrake attached. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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