Jump to content

Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Anyone dealt with NZCVs in Christchurch before? Thoughts/tips? Got some unobtainium here that needs rebuilding/replacing and all the rally jokers have said they are the best crowd to talk to.

The other option is sourcing from the USA of all places (thank god for Rockauto).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/03/2017 at 21:40, The Bronze said:

Is that the softer stuff you're not s'posed to use on cars, but I did anyway? If so, I do. 

And if 3/16 is standard brake size for coons?

 

Its the stuff you must use on cars, this stuff or steal, yes its the same size as a coon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, cletus said:

Yep copper nickel is fine, it's straight copper you can't use.

Copper nickel is nicer to work with than steel, you can bend it quite easily by hand

I have a roll of steel 3/16 Bundy witch is even easier to bend than the copper/ nickle, its utter shit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The wiring in the engine bay on my Volvo was so fucked inside the conduit there was 6 wires together all with no insulation, at the main connector plug someone had blobed silicon allover the wires to keep them from touching, but everything worked fine.

      

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So im sitting here looking at my fuel gauge

its on a 280E-40F ohms range

sender seems to be a 90 - 0 (tho i will have to confirm its full reading again)

 

gauge is a bimetallic strip type, and i have 2 spares (the water temp also seems identical and google tells me the ohms range is similar)

 

I am considering

  1. removing coils from it until max throw matches the sender full
  2. moving the pivot pin further up the strip to match the throw to new heat range and or bending for fine adjustment (a closer look shows i can move the whole strip by removing a rivet and refixing it to adjust the pivot point)

this sounds pretty reasonable to me, or do i need to think it over more?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/23/2017 at 10:48, tortron said:

So im sitting here looking at my fuel gauge

its on a 280E-40F ohms range

sender seems to be a 90 - 0 (tho i will have to confirm its full reading again)

 

gauge is a bimetallic strip type, and i have 2 spares (the water temp also seems identical and google tells me the ohms range is similar)

 

I am considering

  1. removing coils from it until max throw matches the sender full
  2. moving the pivot pin further up the strip to match the throw to new heat range and or bending for fine adjustment (a closer look shows i can move the whole strip by removing a rivet and refixing it to adjust the pivot point)

this sounds pretty reasonable to me, or do i need to think it over more?

Well hot damn it worked

Things i learnt 

theres enough adjustment in the gauge to shift the range +- 40 ohms for fine tuning to a sender (i.e E can be shifted from 40, down to 0 or up to 80, and same with the F)

The heating wire is ovbiously bloody small, but it looks to be about 50 coils

 

i unwound 10 of them, and spread out the remaining along the bimetallic strip. and it appears that i have now adjusted the gauge to a full sweep over 90 ohms at around 10v, which seems to be what the gauge will see i the cluster.

 

The bench set up i used was a bit rigged because i have the minimum of electrical tools, but in any case it seems to be proof of concept. i will have to pull the sender out and test it though its full arc to see how accurate the gauge will be in the points between F and E.

 

Will post up a full walkthrough of what i did, because i cant find anyone modifying a bimetallic gauge anywere (dipole types look to be possible with resistors on the full and empty sides). I did find a case of a guy modifying the sender some how, and various senders chopped up and put into other units. But this method would appear to be rather cheap and easy

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The local gasket place in new Plymouth do them all the time. They use a cnc cutter thing that is usually used to cut regular industrial gaskets and they just chuck a piece if copper in and trace your supplied head gasket.

I think they quoted me under $100 for a 6 pot one

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet, I might give this a go, my gasket supply has dried up and I can only get my hands on 1.8mm thick ones now, 1.2 would be much nicerer.

Just so happens there is a waterjet cutter and a good stock of copper at work, i'll have to draw one up and see what bribes the workshop lads prefer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

holden axles need ford stud pattern. what do people do here?

weld up factory stud holes? weld up access holes? how close can a stud be to a hole? is this all a major no-no or a bit of a yeah-yeah?

how special do the holes need to be for press-in studs?

ala:

mea8ootQ2rmAM0dy2OHAEQA.jpg

 

note 3x access holes that keep things interesting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...