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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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falcon 4.1 stalling at low rpm, spluttery/surgey at low load/cruisin sub-50kph.

starts fine with some choke or throttle but wont idle very happily.

points done, dizzy cleaned up, vac advance/lines good, plugs good, coil good.

carb always leaked a bit of gas, still does. checked for blockages inside.

havent managed to find a condenser, current one was new in march 2013. previous points were same age, and were haggard.

 

what say ye?

 

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What does it look like with a timing light on it. Any wandering like a worn dizzy drive might cause?

You can actually improve idle and off idle response on tunable ECU's by reducing the timing and feeding it more air. (Great for engines with a bit of can upgrade) 

 

So yeah don't underestimate the importance of base timing for a clean /strong idle.

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cool cheers. will check these soon as i can.

side note.. every day tempted by dave's spicy boat motor still sitting in the shed but noone ever has anything good to say about alloy head 4.1s compared to the iron heads, naturally dave would say thats the perfect reason to put it in, but i can barely be fucked with the small issues this one gives, and it gets hot a lot.

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Rekitted my vans carb, fitted a decent distributor timed to factory spec (5° at idle), new coil, new electric fuel pump.

Am now lucky to get anything more than 250-300k from a tank of gas.

Always got closer to 350k when it was running a fucked pump, leaky carb and timing locked somewhere around 40°.

 

WTF could be going on?

Too higher fuel pressure?

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1 hour ago, Steelies said:

falcon 4.1 stalling at low rpm, spluttery/surgey at low load/cruisin sub-50kph.

starts fine with some choke or throttle but wont idle very happily.

points done, dizzy cleaned up, vac advance/lines good, plugs good, coil good.

carb always leaked a bit of gas, still does. checked for blockages inside.

havent managed to find a condenser, current one was new in march 2013. previous points were same age, and were haggard.

 

what say ye?

 

Replace the condenser, then replace the dizzy with latter 4.1 electronic, but you might need that big box that is behind the passenger kick panel to go with it.

 

My 4.1 ran very rough at idol, it had very worn cam lobes and worn lifters, max speed was 70 KPH  

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3 hours ago, Raizer said:

Rekitted my vans carb, fitted a decent distributor timed to factory spec (5° at idle), new coil, new electric fuel pump.

Am now lucky to get anything more than 250-300k from a tank of gas.

Always got closer to 350k when it was running a fucked pump, leaky carb and timing locked somewhere around 40°.

 

WTF could be going on?

Too higher fuel pressure?

Did you check the timing with the vacuum hose disconnected? 

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Yeap disconnected and blocked off.

Besides the fucking terrible economy It is otherwise running well, besides being a bit hard to start/often needs a fair bit of cranking to start when warm.

 

At one point before I changed the dizzy and kitted the carb etc it was running so rich it turned one side of my trailer black and it still gave better mileage.

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re 4.1 advice

i only quickly pulled the top off crab and checked what i could, have found chunky culprits there in the past. hoping to pull the whole thing off for a proper look soon.

other forums (hilarious falcon forum discussions btw) suggest vac leaks is a common cause of all this, will spray stuff in places and see what happens.

buying condenser on webnet. still looking for elec dizzy stuff as this other motor only has half of one there anyway. although i've heard things about the factory ones with the black box kinda sucking.

Al man, finding 6 working carbs of same type would be awesome!! 

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29 minutes ago, Steelies said:

re 4.1 advice

i only quickly pulled the top off crab and checked what i could, have found chunky culprits there in the past. hoping to pull the whole thing off for a proper look soon.

other forums (hilarious falcon forum discussions btw) suggest vac leaks is a common cause of all this, will spray stuff in places and see what happens.

If no vac leaks are found, pull top off carb and blow out all the ports with compressed air. 

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Worth more than the engine. 

I'd be removing the carb and rekitting it.

I'm not Uber familiar with dem ford carbys. But check that the bowl lid (if non holley/motocraft carb) isn't warped. Make sure all the orifices/capillaries jets, air bleeds and emulsion tubed are cleaner than a clean thing. 

A biggie which is a fuck around to fix is if the throttle shaft gets real worn air can leak in and make it go lean. Spesh with the blades closed as thered high vacuum present under the throttle blades.

is you vac advance diaphram all good? If they rupture/leak air can get in. They can be a dick too.

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flash carbs makes even more sense as the service history for this motor is: drag off someone's floor and put in wagon in 2004, then it was now. i must admit, it's been pretty good given the lack of maintenance.

oh also its only ever had a mesh air 'filter', haha. poor thing.

yeah will look at worn carb body stuff. i do have a spare body i believe, likely with stripped top cover threads, but current one is getting there now too. wonder if the twin throat one off the other motor would suit. would rather fix the stock junk than change to mystery other junk though.

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