Steelies Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 think i had similar worries with starlet but went with bigger pump on OS advice and zero issues. seem to recall cert guy saying wire pump relay control via oil light switch to kill pump when the poo stalls..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 You can get these for safety https://trademe.co.nz/1207860239 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I fitted a roll over switch in my escort when I put in an electric fuel pump, I'm not sure clint even looked at it when he did the cert, but it made me feel better I also fitted a non returning fuel pressure regulator as my pump had too much pressure. The bike carbs recommended around 2.8 psi and at 3.2 they started to overflow, pump was rated at 7-8psi I think I'm not really sure where the pressure requirement comes from for carbs, as long as there is enough pressure to get the fuel into the bowl at max flow. But there does seem to be a large variation in requirements, like usa carbs generally require 8psi or even 10+psi vs bike carbs and euro carbs needing around 3-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I chucked the fuelmiser brand inline facet type pump in my 260c. Works good. Forgot the price was cheap I think. I wired it to the ignition so I can turn the key on and prime the carb as its dry after 2-3 weeks of not running 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Mine is wired direct to the ignition. That worries me a bit, so I bought an oil pressure safety switch like this https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-a68301/overview/ I couldn't make the plumbing work when I tried to fit it (not enough NPT adaptors) so it's not on the car right now. I also got a non-return regulator but haven't fitted that either. TL:DR Bigger pump wired direct to ignition works for me for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Think I'll just whack the 4.5-6psi pump in and cross my fingers then haha. It's pretty much the same price as the 3-4.5psi anyway. Anyone got a pump blanking plate off a sohc turbo Mitsi spare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Exactly what Raizer just said. thanks for the tips guys Like my mum, I love a good tip. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 If you have any problems an inline regulator will generally sort it out. The needle in the float bowl on some carbies are unable to stop the fuel above 5 psi and then weird stuff happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Shitty Old holden 3 speed manual gearbox Appears to have leaks out of both ends. So, before i pull the front snout off the input shaft housing, what sort of seal am I expecting to find in there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 A fucked one? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Had a look in my books, and it doesn't seem to have a separate seal (HG book anyway), just a bearing and gasket. So I guess the bearing is a sealed one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 think i had similar worries with starlet but went with bigger pump on OS advice and zero issues. seem to recall cert guy saying wire pump relay control via oil light switch to kill pump when the poo stalls..? Good idea to wire a safety doofer in with a low pressure fuel system, but it's not actually a requirement. It is on efi systems however. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Hmmm. Sealed bearing sounds mega gay. Guess will pull it off. Take take bit off gearbox too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 ah yes, starlet was certed with EFI 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Think I'll just whack the 4.5-6psi pump in and cross my fingers then haha. It's pretty much the same price as the 3-4.5psi anyway. Anyone got a pump blanking plate off a sohc turbo Mitsi spare? i used a wood block as a blanking plate but a metal one is so much nicer. Cut a piece of broken mower body and drill holes maybe? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 i used a wood block as a blanking plate Lol this isn't the fabrication fuckups thread 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Drum brakes, these are Riley 1500 ones which bolt up to a Morris Minor since they share the same suspension design. All 4 cylinders were re-done with stainless steel and new rubbers by a place in ChCh. Shoes re-done by ABC iirc (these pics are from 5 years ago) to match the drum arc. New hoses. Drums look good. I'm reasonably sure they are assembled correctly. Cross checked just now against the oxford which uses a similar Girling design. The problem is that they pull to left - have done since fitted really. Things done - chamfered the leading edges of the shoes on the left to reduce initial grab. - Bled carefully (many times). The bleeder is on the lower cylinder so I've unbolted the backing plate and rotated it up for bleeding, particularly on the RHS. - Deglazed the shoes and drums with emory tape. - Swapped drums (probably, its hard to recall. I'll swap them tonight anyway.) - swapped springs from one side to the other. Nothing helped much. There are 'pins' adjustable behind the shoes to square them up with the drums, it's hard to be sure, but I've alighed the shoes to the backing plate with a set square so I think its OK. Any ideas before I either give up and take it to ABC to look at ($$) or but the stock drums back on ($$ needed to new cylinders and shoes for these anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Is each side getting the same fluid pressure at the same time. You can get pressure gauges that screw into the bleeders, but are probably a bit tricky to find. Is there one line from the master cylinder that tees off to the two front sides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Swap one shoe side to side. E.g swap the top shoes over. Edit: is that brake fluid all over the bottom shoe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 What mof said. When I get issues with imbalanced drums, mainly on hiace vans, is swap the drums and leading shoes, de-dust and adjust. Boom. Can get that shit down to zero percentage imbalance. However. You're talking about British shit with shit jammed on from a different piece of British shit. So its most likely always going to be shit, because British. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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