The K20A / K24A thread

[Spencer]

Na they don't need head work, the heads and valve train is what essentially makes these things so sweet. Yes you need a tune, you can run a K-pro (hondata) which works with the stock ECU if you wish, think they were around $600. Yea the vtec on the lower spec K motors is cam phasing and intake only extra lift, the vtec is aimed for economy and promoting swirl and shit.

[CaMpylobacter]

mmhhmm, so you've still got a fair few grand on top of purchase to hit that 250whp mark huh?

[Rookie]

Here is the HP register for K20a

 

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34644&page=28

 

Some highlights.

 

SET-UP #246
Stock K24a2 (TSX) bottom, stock K24a1 head,
2004 TSX Ex cam,
CTR In cam,

RBC IM,
R-Crew V1,
Thermal 3" exhaust.

Power 246, torque 191
By TheMidasTouch

 

 

 

SET-UP #250
Stock k24a2 (Type S) with a 45 VTC
Stock Cams

Intake 2004 Accord with Type S TB
R Crew Header
3 inch exhaust, 3 inch truck Cat , Magnaflow Muffler

Dyno: Dynapack
Power 250 HP @ 7000rpm, torque 200 Ft-lbs @ 5000rpm
By Choo

 

 

SET-UP #234
Stock K24a2 (TSX) bottom end
Stock K24a1 (CRV) head
Skunk2 Stage3 cams

RCrew Header
RBC

Power 262, torque 198
By TheMidasTouch

 

 

SET-UP #272
K24 IPS block k20 head
12.5-1 C.R. pistons cunningham rods
Oversized supertech intake and exhaust
IPS KME 8620 cams
Kpro tuned

RBC intake
RC 550s
SSR coated 4-2-1 header

Power 272 @ 7800, torque 220 @ 5500

 

 

 

SET-UP #281
K24a2 (TSX)
Stock head with Supertech valves and valvetrain
CP 12.5:1 C.R. 87.5mm bore pistons
IPS K10 cams
IB rods

TWM 52mm ITB's
SSR header

Power 281, torque 197

 

 

SET-UP #339
K24a1 (CRV) / K20a2 (Type S) Head + porting
K20a2 type s pump
Wiseco 87.5mm bore 13.7:1 C.R.
IB rods
Blueprint Racing Camshaft Stage 3 K Series i-VTEC
Blueprint Racing Valve Springs
Blueprint Racing Valves +0.5mm
Blueprint Racing Titanium Retainers
OEM crank

RBC + porting
BDL 70mm Throttle Body
SSR/DTR + Megafon

Power 339, torque 228 with E85
By Honda@racing

[Rookie]

mmhhmm, so you've still got a fair few grand on top of purchase to hit that 250whp mark huh?

 

Yes, you have to spend money to make power.

[Snoozin]

Closer to 1500 for a kpro.

Friend of mine has just completed a K20A swap using a KPro. If you're not handy tuning one there is a huge cost involved in tuning, 8 different maps from memory.

[Spencer]

Yea the stock ECU's are insanely in-depth, for simplicity personally I'd get a plug and play AEM or similar, use an existing map for cam phasing and road tune it. Then go spend the beans and dial in the cam phasing.

[mjrstar]

Everyone on OS knows the best bang for buck non turbo 4 cylinder is 13b turbo, closely followed by barra turbo, with ls in 3rd.

moral of the story

Why stick with big hp na when a plus t will be better at everything? /offtopic

Max hp na is like retard Olympics just look at my ~100hp mini which i probably dumped over 3 grand of head work into. (Cool head though)

[Snoozin]

It's just cooler tbh.

[Spencer]

Yea go watch 90's super tourers and revaluate your life.

[mjrstar]

I did mention its cool but its exponentially more costly for minimal gains once you have done the simple shit.

5+4 = 9 but so does 6+3.

How does the mid 300hp 2.4 litre na drive on the street?

[Rookie]

Wheel spin every gear.

[Snoozin]

But in terms of dollar spent:coolness ratio NA wins by the proverbial country mile or 3.

[KKtrips]

Looks as though there's a W5* gearbox bellhousing adaptor available from Convert Motorsports... Or at least will be soon?

Excuse the ignorance but don't Honda engines run counterclockwise so you will need to do some pretty extensive mods to run a clockwise type gearbox?

[KKtrips]

Legit question, do K series motors spin the same way as the S2000000 spec ones/how do you go about RWD'in them?

 

They spin clockwise as does the f20, so normal way.

Never mind - I just read this.

[Roman]

I guess the conclusion of this thread so far seems to be...

 

A K24/20A isnt cost effective in RWD unless you're planning a big dollar big power build which is where the motor excels well past the other 4 cyl NA options.

A standard engine doesnt look to be worth the trouble/$$$ unfortunately, if that's the level of build you can afford.

 

Lucky for those FWD guys though where one of these plonks in nicely! Always looks awesome having ITBs out the front of the motor rather than the back as well.

[DB8-TypeR]

322whp K24 been in NZ since ages ago. Invercargill based even, built around 2008.

EK Civic. Did flat 11s from memory. As a Honda kid I was fizzing the first time I saw it in the met

This one here even:

http://nzhondas.com/build-threads/79066-deep-south-ek-k-build.html

Pics are dead but heres a vid, car was sold then threw a rod out the block, has since been turned into a Honda Cup car

[flyingbrick]

I'd completely forgotten the backwards spin issue that prevents most honda motors going rwd. Doh!

Without a doubt the most impressive na build iv seen was Acesnipers (Waikato guys will know him) ae101 with blacktop 20v.

Holy crap that thing was wild.

No idea if its still alive?

[Spencer]

So did some more reading of my old bookmarks from when I had a K24 and was going to do some things and gave up. But if you are going for a stock K24 there's a few things that can make it cheaper, if you get the right ECU you can use the stocker to get you going. Also if you do a tweak the F20c factory headers they work and just cut and shut a alloy intake. Gearbox wise for off the shelf shit you are looking at 2K for a box, Flywheel, adapter and clutch. So If you get a decent base engine for the right price that has a ECU and all bolt ons (lots of crashed accords out there) then drop the major coin on the box, shits not so bad $$ wise for a starting point. Stock K24a will pop out 120kw at the wheels or more with a fat mid range and epic economy in a light car. Just has to fit which is probably the tricky part for a lot of cars.

 

Then when you win lotto drop 5K on it and go dort. Someone on here has to run one on magnesium kinslers haha

 

 

Anyway Roman yes they are not some magic bullet for cheap rwd power. But if you are keen to spend a little more then you get one of the best 4 bangers ever made with all of the aftermarket support. 

 

Oh and I still am an advocate of fitting whatever kind motor gives you a boner, if you like blue smoke mitis, kents or whatever do that instead.

[CaMpylobacter]

 they are not some magic bullet for cheap rwd power.

 

But this is what you guys have been pushing them as for the last while?

This thread has been very enlightening though and I'm pleased it's gone as well as it has. I've learnt a lot today.

Very keen to see someone chuck one in something now. 

 I think Roman summed it up quite well. If you're down for cheap big power on a budget then they're no better option than anything else out there (N/A) but if you're willing to spend some decent pinga to get a good atmo engine then they're second to none/don't spend a million bucks on something that'll always be in the shadow of a tweaked K

[DB8-TypeR]

JTune in Auckland has done a lot of work with K24, just bolt ons and tuning this is one of their examples:

Been trying to find some old dyno sheets

On a Stock k24 with intake and exhaust and no tuning can make 140kw at the wheels
Stock Extractor
Orignal Throttle Boddy
No Tuning
Heavy Flywheel

Another Customer CL9 with
Intake
Extractor
Exhaust
Still the small Throttle body and factory intake manifold
And Hondata Tune
It made over 160kw at peak of 6800 rpm
Just the lack of Cam Timing, restriction on the intake and smaller cams we couldnt get more power out of it, but... there is still alot of torque

The ammout of torque it puts out is more then a Stock Nsx with a 3.0 Engine
If you been in a ride in a NSX or a K24 Dc5/Ep3 the pull is similar to a 220wkw Evo at 1.5Bar



These engine makes 200hp Factory
But tuning and right parts combo, is nearly 100hp gain without doing much to the internal.