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sheepers 1977 (i think, could be 76) Toyota Celica TA23


sheepers

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yeah mate! i got a call from PBT yesterday arvo asking if i was also getting some stuff delivered to palmy.. I ordered the bonnet back in decemeber then had to wait untill after japanese new year to order my front guards so ive been hanging out to get them for about 6 months haha

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Hey man, are you going to do the "toymods rolltrack" window roller mod while you have all the internals out of the door? ive just done it in my ta22 (couldnt find roll trak rollers here in nz but found some other 25mm rollers in bunnings that were about $15 for a pair)

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the rollers need replacing no doubt about that.

i have a bunch i made years ago so ill probably just use them.

the brown glitter turd had some ebay replacement rollers and jellybeans that i put into it. the rollers were a bit strange in that they had a groove in them that didn't fit well in the rear sliders. front was sweet.

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I have to say sir that you are a dedicated mother fucker to do all this 2 part painting in the cold weather. Also I only ever did a quick block on that protec epoxy when doing bog/body work on it, chuck down the bog seal with epoxy and then get some high build primer that sands nice on there. It blocks up my flash sandpaper too quick that stuff, they actually make about 3 other epoxy primers those guys and some of them sand better. I don't even think you can buy that one anymore. Anyway its working for you, nice jerb old geezer etc.

 

EDIT: Oh and in spam you mentioned you were trying to wet on wet that stuff? it was late and I forgot to reply. What I did is thin it down just a tad more and use my 1.4 top coat gun, it will go retarded if you dont let it flash the thinners off and set a tad. In your temperatures who knows how long, I only ever sprayed it in 25 degrees straya weather and it worked great, 2K black urethane over top no drama and pretty darn flat. Oh and the recoat window is like 24 hours ( I think, most epoxies are check the data sheet) so you can let it skin right off, clean it and paint with no sanding.

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yea it glues the sand paper aright. I've found that if i knock the skin off with the DA it won't clog the DA paper for some reason and once the skins off it it sands very well.

i had long yarns to the old barry in the shop about the various protec paints and the stuff I'm using is apparently the top of the line and best for what I'm doing. it builds very well and once you get the skin off it it sand ok.

painting in the cold is alright too according to the guys at the shop.

oh, and i have long yarns to them about wet laying this stuff. everything you say is on the money, need to thin it a bit more and lay it with a smaller nozzle. I'm using the 1.4 for it anyway because i found that it runs like shit if i lay it on with anything bigger. they said that you need to leave it about 20 minutes in summer and 40 minutes in winter to flash before putting colour on.

i tried thinning it at about 60% on the inside of one of the doors and it went on like glass, beautifully flat and would have been able to lay colour on it and it would look fine. I'm thinning it at 30% for normal use. i tried it with no thinners in it and it went on like clay. lumpy as fuck.  temperature changes how it lays obviously and last night i didn't realise how cold it was. i was thinning it at about 40% and it was still a bit lumpy. i was all "what the fuck" then i went outside and my nose froze off and the penny dropped….

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