jacknz123 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 also when we contacted this guy up north with a really mint one, looking for wiring info, said we were in christchurch, he guessed i was part of QCR and said he would kill us for what we do to classic mopeds Hahaha yea I stumbled upon that guy too, thought he was my mate until he tryed to sell me a wiring diagram for like $40. No worries with the condenser she works a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 he wanted something like $250 for that diagram for me haha. keep it up, electric start is so sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 $250!! tosser. Looking good so far, what did the yellow connect to? Blue- Neutral switch Black- Points parallel with condenser Red- Charge feed from stator/large field coil Green- Field Coil for controlling charge current. Yellow- Field Coil/stator for starting Edited.... Hope I'm right, making a bunch of assumptions here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacknz123 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Yea the yellow wire connects to the coils as well I think. If I connect just the yellow and earth to a battery the motor starts to turn over. Could I use one of these to control the voltage, current? http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/generators-power-supply/solar/auction-840774541.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 I was going to suggest something just like that and a relay for the stater field coil, you might need an additional relay for the stator as well as I dont know what current is going though the red wire.( and possibly a hefty diode) Is the reg totally stuffed? wouldn't mind looking at it so I can get an understanding of how exactly it works, or a bunch of close up pictures. Youll need to check the max voltage input for that charge controller, at high revs some of these bikes put waaaay more than the 6v they were designed for. Only other concern is that on 12v, you may eventually burn the stator, starter field coil out, but you may get away with the momentary use it gets What i think we will have to address is that the charge field coil normally has 6v to generate the 1.21Gigawatts to charge the flux battery, this field coil is turned on/off by the regulator when required. In the new scenario it will be on permanently and have 12v on it, I's suggest a regulator to drop the charge field winding to 6v, or at least a current limiting device. handy with electronics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacknz123 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 So which wire is my charge wire? The original regulator is covered in rust, it is up in CHCH with that A50 engine you are after haha. Are the coils not made for 12V? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 It's a 6v bike isnt it?( does it have 6v light bulbs?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacknz123 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Na pretty sure its a 12v bike the previous owners couldn't get any spark with 6v and the electric start won't turn over with 6v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Ooooh, not sure why I thought it was 6v? Well that makes things a lot easier then, let me think a replacement regulator design overnight if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacknz123 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 That would be awesome thanks man you're a legend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Edit, that circuit diagram wont work as it assumes there's some permanent magnets to energise the dynamo coils. Back to the drawing board. What we need to do is make this in an electronic version. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Yeah as above bike is definitely 12v. Making that into an electronic version would be the best solution. Sadly not particularly easy at the current rating necessary 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Ok, I think we have a design now that may work. After investigation it appear that both field coils and the rotor join on the + side of the rotor, that to regulate the field coil we need to control the -v supply to it. I added a 2nd relay as there is already a b+ feed to the + terminal of the rotor and it needs to be disconnected so the current cal flow through the start coil and the rotor in series. Once we have this working we need to sort out a current sense circuit so the rotor isn't permanently powered by the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Actually, Just a diode may get rid for the need of the 2nd Relay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Perhaps not, because then there's no way to energise the field coil unless we relied on the collapsing field to keep the field energised long enough to sustain generation?? If we can disconnect the field winding and place it on the other side of the diode this should work as done in this diagram, thoughts???!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 What I don't like in this circuit is that it keeps the generator stator connected all the time and acts like a DC motor running all the time, I assume this wouldn't be a good idea? I think there needs to be a cut out. We could design the cut out to open a relay contact once the current drops below a pre-set level which would normally indicate battery is full or no load, but then if there's no current flowing the generator will stay permanently off because is isn't generating anything to create any current flow from the generator. Argh! Are you sure we cant fix the old regulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacknz123 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 Jeepers that is complicated. Maybe we could get the old system going again, it looked pretty rooted though. I will try and get it sent down to me to take a better look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I've read how to set them up fairly thoroughly, so unless there's something missing or it's too corroded I reckon we can get it going. this setup is a tricky son of a biscuit the way it's wired up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacknz123 Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 Alright to for an update. I have been making progress with the charging system. I decided to go down the arduino route as you can see in the photo below. The arduino basically reads the voltage coming in via that shitty brown thing with resistors on it. Then the arduino does some proportional control adjustments and changes what the green dc motor controller outputs to the electromagnet in the dynamo. So far I have just tested it with a drill turning the crankshaft at about 500rpm and it produces a maximum of about 8 volts. Hopefully with the bike running at around 2000rpm it will be capable of producing the 14volts needed. Massive thanks to Kempy for explaining to me how it works/what we are trying to achieve. Otherwise this wouldn't have been possible. I also ordered a gasket set from ebay but when I took the cylinder off for a look well... Looks like I might need a rebore / new cylinder. Looking at the JR50 cylinders as they have the same bore and stroke and a complete top end can be had off ebay for $100. If I get the current one rebored I will likely need a new piston to fit it anyway. Anyone know of any others that may fit? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felixx Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 I have a boor hone thing to jam on a drill if you want to borrow it/ fill the pitting with JB Weld. I am chuffed to see progress on this bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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