flyingbrick Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 So I made that post above and realized it could be weeks until I'm back in the machine shop. I had to find another way. Held two crank bearing shells together with a hose clamp. Taped holes and oil groove with electrical tape and used it like an egg ring on the bottom of the boss. Filled ring with flexible bumper bog (excellent stuff, stays slightly plastic feeling, purchased for my gauge cluster surround as it doesn't crack or crumble with movement) Popped off bearing shells, peeled off tape and filed bog quickly with rasp. Stuck (throughly cleaned) contact ring down with some 5 minute epoxy. The squares of tape are just to make totally sure the ring is insulated from metal wings on boss base. It should be pretty damn permanent, cost me nothing but what I had in the shed AND it didn't take fuck all time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 So I wanted indicator and warning lamps for between my gauges. The factory warning lamps were aged beyond use and I wasn't paying for replacements (plus they wouldn't fit anyway with my gauges) I started looking for aftermarket warning/indicator lamps but they are either in the wrong configuration, extremely expensive, extremely ugly or just not available. Even the kit car guys don't seem to have a nice supplier of lamps and for some reason I had myself set on having logos visible when lit. (For the record, the nicest I found was this, but the CAR version with battery rather than N isn't available. AND LOOK AT THE PRICE http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/t-shaped-warning-light-panel-bike-version) so I bought a Nissan maxima gauge cluster off trademe for $1+ post and cut out the lenses.. Then bought some 3mm white diffused lense LED's And machined these stainless bolts. 3mm hole right through with a very large chamfer to spread the light out kinda. Sat them in a stand and gave them power, not enough volts per LED so very dim I needed them to light up so that I could quickly fill each one with clear epoxy and then plop the lenses down on top in the correct position. As the lenses are black when not lit its impossible to line them up without the led on. The idea was that epoxy would help diffuse the light out to the extremities of each lense.. Seems to have worked OK. So now I have these. Very hard to photograph. They look good in person but photographs with real bad hotspots tomorrow I will trim the lenses down and finish on the linisher with a worn belt..STOAKED with the outcome considering total $20 spent Edit. Well, I tried. Turns out this plastic has completely rejected the epoxy. I wonder what other adhesives could be used? To bond the lenses to the epoxy beneath. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Finished my indicator warning lamps..damn happy with how they came out actually. Ended up using a clear non silicone bathroom sealant stuff. I wouldn't usually have tried it because its NOT an adhesive..but its grabbed the lenses well. Also bought a pair of these shit 12" fans for 40 bucks (for both) and figured worth a gamble. The falcon fan I wanted to use is just too bulky and heavy, I couldn't do it. I guess worst case I replace them with a decent Davies Craig fan. I am completely aware of how shit they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Mustang fuel sender has arrived. Have holley red fuel pump, fuel filters, HT lead holders, floor mounted gas pedal, pine lock solenoid, fuse block assembly, USB and CIG lighter power sockets, switches, airhorns and a pinstriping brush (always wanted to give it a go) on the way from overseas. The horns I got from repco are extremely quiet and make the whole front end reverberate badly..dunno what the fucks wrong with them but they are going back. I spent a long time trying to find a decent and reliable electric fuel pump and the holley is definitely the best value for money on the market that I have found. Flows lots, needs no regulator and they definitely seem to be the most liked pump in america Poor credit card Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Finished work an hour early yesterday and finished the tank..ready to install after a wash. Then crimped and welded the factoey fuel feed in sender.Once filters and pump arrive thats fuel system DONE. Yaaay. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Cut some recesses into dash for these two sockets so they sit flush. They have rubber covers for when they aren't being used (99% of the time) Hopefully it ends up looking OK. Lots more holes to cut as bits turn up. Discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45620-flyingbricks-198-holden-wb-ute/page-11 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 God damn these holley pumps are huge and heavy! Skid helper More work on the dash Can start serious work on the Pontiac front end because of these Filters. Don't have any pics but got a CHEAP through floor billet pedal (same as lokar ones) off AE. mounted it forward of the firewall and up off the floor on a bracket. The throttle cable now goes vertical from the pedal, left, then enters the engine bay directly behind the carb linkage. Definitely feels far nicer than when it was doing a big S and tidier. Busy tomorrow but man, Sunday will be fun. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Many thanks to vinylimpact for the masks! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 New carb bracket, temp switch, cheap lead holders. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 27, 2015 Author Share Posted May 27, 2015 I could not be more happy with the 9" I got off Ben (with much appreciated help from Neal and Greg) turns out its an LSD. Wooooot. Now I need time + dry daylight hours to strip it down for rebuild. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 So.. Finally got my fuel tank all bolted in for the last time. It even lines up with the hatch in the deck so WIN. now making a little mount adaptor thing to put my pump beside the tank.. As far away from the cabin as possible as supposed to be irritatingly noisy. Greg and Chris turned up today at home while I was pulling the semi reliable daily to pieces for a repair. The two legends pulled my 9" axles out and removed the center. The pinion and crown wheel are in great condition. But then I decided cruising was for pusscakes so swapped my 2.75 ratio gears with a mate for his 4.11s. According to the calculator with the tires I want that's around 3100 rpm at 100kph. Pretty angry but should be fun....and the gear sets are easy to change if needed. Now I want to test the diff's breakaway tq so may need to make a device. Guessing I'll cut some axles up and smash the tq wrench on there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 6, 2015 Author Share Posted June 6, 2015 Have spent ages scrubbing the diff parts and steam cleaning the housing. Made some plugs to fill the spring perch holes but ran out of time and away on site for weeks now. Hopefully someone can weld that up for me at work this week. Then I just have to drill new holes to the correct width and (assuming the pinion angle is sweet, may need wedges) its ready to bolt up once bearings etc arrive. Yusssssssssssss. Got some Audi seats for a bargain as they look a bit more 80s (and are blacker and more comfortable) than the Volvo ones. Probably said this ten times but I REALLY wanted Calais seats but couldn't afford..so this is a nice compromise. Also bought rear disk conversion for 9" off TM. Early 90s falcon calipers, brackets and disks all ready to bolt on (after changing pcd) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Ali express fuel fittings, caliper rebuild kit. Bout some centerline convos for front. Pickup tonight yusssssssssssss. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Rear calipers bead blasted and then re kitted for the 9". Seems to be a very common setup although a few people have mentioned they jam.. When I removed the front wheels (for the first time) to fit the convos it became apparent that the previous owner had intended to rebuild things. All ball joints are rooted and only assembled to make it roll. New joints ordered from Kingswood Country in aus for the amazing price of $155 delivered (cheapest I could find by far) and although it means little..they have a two year warranty! Hopefully I can order all the front bushes in nolithane soon too. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Sat the 9" in place on its pins to check my measuring was not stupid. Test fit the calipers. They are supposed to go directly above the disk with these brackets. Discovered that the handbrake brackets were to end up scarily close to the chassis rails. Redrilled the bracket to put the caliper behind the axle and now suddenly it looks like its all coming together OK. (Maybe some of these axle ends had the flange on 90 degrees to mine?) HOPEFULLY I can make some Holden rear drum cables work with these calipers for max easy. Marked out where the brake hose mounts have to be welded. All ready for final welding now. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Got some universal seat rails from nzkw and very happy with the quality for $60 a pair. <3 box I have drawn up all my seat mounts in cad and will get laser cut. Balljoints! Today I pressed bushes and balljoints out of front arms and finished my diff. Glued on a place to drain oil, 3 brake line mounts, fixed porosity in a factory weld (was unbelievably bad) and extended the side of my spring perches as the leafs overhung by 10mm. Maybe a bit rude but fit for purpose, strong as hell and 10x faster than removing and reattaching the whole perch. (Plus no banana housing). I took a bunch of images to show any questioning certifiers how it was tig welded in place (huge v, 3 runs, it ain't coming off) Bought these AU2 calipers because cheap and will rekit them for the front end. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Plastic pistons? Wtf? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Got my first seat mounting plate welded in. Wish I had a vice at home to help with bending these front plates into shape. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 First of all. So that I can use BA falcon disks I did this. Took disk/hubs. Made a mandrel Machined until the right size to fit into hat. I'll get some quality studs the right length and will sleeve the front spigot so that it centers the disk correctly. <3 sandblasters Two days ago I went to see a mate. We swapped a few Holden bits and I spent a while staring at his VERY nice ute shell (sitting in epoxy primer after being stripped to bare metal). It looked different to mine... I got home and a few photo comparisons proved a few unusual differences. The next night I spent a little more time working on the seat mounts and decided it was worth probing deeper into the few hairline cracks. I knew there were a large number of rust repairs present but I wasn't expecting this... pictures speak a thousand words. Photos don't do this crap justice.. Plan change to heavy focus on chassis/running gear and anything no attached to the terribly dishonest body 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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