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flyingbricks HZ Ute- success


flyingbrick

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Thanks to some bonza company 'n' a borrowed navara plus transporter i bought this home on saturday. will post more later but its going to be my occasional daily (replacing the coon) 'n' isn't too far from being finished. unlike most crikey off trademe this trader was 100% ridgy-didge 'n' she came with more bits than i expected 'n' in better condition.. hugs all round.

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Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45620-flyingbricks-198-holden-wb-ute/

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So I left home at 9am on sat and picked up vk327 and his flatmate and then threeonthetree, collected the ute then hauled it home.

Lots of drinking and crawling around the thing happened but ultimately she wasn't fired up because of a missing rotor in the hei dizzy. Doh!

She came with a terrible wildcat wheel but I happened to have another hanging in the shed that I purchased just because hoarder. Neal threw that on but in hindsight with no power steering its probably a bit small. (Man I want that nardi)

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The engines a pretty fresh smallblock 350 with refurbished 600 holley carb, nice flash intake manifold and unknown cam.

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The motors cleaner on the inside than the outside!

There are old pacemaker headers that need plumbing to an exhaust

And it came with the correct new & fancy looking throttle and kickdown cables. Threw the throttle cable on tonight.

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According to the block numbers its likely a four bolt mains and the heads are smoggy but have had the ports blocked. Google says these are pretty good as far as smog heads go and compression should be reasonable.

There's a fancy Gilly drive with polished alt and weiand pump for additional wank.

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She came with two good radiators. There is a good big aluminium one with outlets to suit the chev PLUS a damn good condition 308 HQ radiator that I need to sell (pm me)

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I bought a set of AU fans off Trademe as I heard they fit the HQ radiators but they do need a bit of modifying. I'm getting there.

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So its been running a 2.8 diesel for years- the fuel tank is old and everything's yuck. It also was using a fuel cell at one stage meaning there are mounts under the tray at the rear. To make things nice and easy I got the alloy fuel cell from another guy here and just need to make some hoops to hang it. Im Praying it doesn't hang too low as the alloy won't handle much contact with the road.

And Daniel at Bunce auto in auk is EXCRLLENT and has a new rotor on the way to me. Finding chev account delco shit here is bloody hard

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Forgot to mention.

In the pics before collection I could see a rusty water stain down the firewall.

The previous owner told me he thought it was the heater core.

I was thinking HA be a good tui add. From everything I can see he was actually right! A good excuse to use the little heater unit I made for the gem.

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Another item ticked off the list. An hour of grinding and zapping with new mig welder (old, swapped it for my tig) and a borrowed bottle of gas from work and the floor is patched and shifter fitted. I made up a bracket with tapped holes for the shifter to bolt down to and then zapped that to the patch.

I should have experimented with power and feed BEFORE attempting patch but it is what it is.

The floor had quite a big hole from a previous manual conversion (guessing)

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Also here's a few pics of the radiator fans and shroud in their final shape. All mounting brackets have been cut off and clearances for pipes cut.

Might file up the shitty bits.....but probably wont. Renovator tools rule.

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Thankfully the water marks in the passenger side foot well WERE from the heater core leaking. Since I have a compact heater/blower assembly I made for the Gemini I decided to biff it all and start again rather than cleaning up and replacing the core.

Good choice because the plastic blower housing in the firewall was glued down and came off in about 10 pieces.

I made the patch out of part of a Gemini bonnet that a mate swaged for me months back. Its getting a bit late to make noise so I'll grind the paint off the firewall and weld this over the holes tomorrow.

Loving this project!

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Hopefully people like watching constant updates like these.

I ripped out the last of the heater ducting and then gave the interior a good vacuum. The amount of shit in the ducting and stuck behind the vents was silly- they must have had shit flying out of them all the time

I then took back anything that looked slightly rusty and gave it a coat of rust kill. Would have done more but damn that stuff smells!

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I jacked the thing up and dropped out the factory (I think) fuel tank and inspected the electric pump installed by previous owner to make sure its not an efi pump or anything silly..

Then started removing the other set of shackles and installing new nolethane bushes. Unfortunately the new bolts are just a litttttle bit bigger than the holes in the other shackle plates and the drillbit I need is the one I don't have here...doh.

I also dragged out the driveshaft and realised I'm missing a few little but important pieces. The driveshaft has a fresh weld on one end so hopefully has been purpose built to fit this!

Oh and painted this..

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Please see WTB thread if you have anything sitting around HQ related.

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I am extremely happy as a test fit of my driveshaft has proven that it is the correct length and has definitely been modified previously. No I just need a single UJ FOR the diff end.

I managed to find some UJ U bolts at a mates on the diff I gave him(that's saved me 60 bucks)

And blew this weeks budget at SCA getting seam sealer, radiator cap and some other random bits.

Look what was in the tray..should polish up nice.

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Oh and where the fuck is my 3 jaw puller.

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Clint (possibly the most accessible and user-friendly cert guy for anyone in the Waikato) has picked up from the images that my shackles need crush tubes.

I thought it was odd that the factory bolts didn't have crush tubes (the front spring bush DOES) and its just dawned on me that the factory studs have a stepped shank that bottoms out on the outer shackle plate.

I paid fuck all attention to the older rusty bolts so really owe the guy a beer!

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B&T provided a new UJ for the rear.

Fark it was hard getting the old caps out. Ended up cutting the cross out with a grinder then finally got things moving with a pretty big hammer.

So now the driveshaft is in!

I'm not totally convinced that the driveshaft is not slightly too long but will find out when I drop it back onto its wheels. With weight off the rear wheels and the uj unbolted the shaft slides into the gearbox about 3mm.. I think that will all disappear pretty quck....but no idea how much there should be.

Can always slide the motor and box forward slightly if needed ( I need to loosen off the bolts and rotate/shim the motor slightly to level up the headers with the ground..

The bad news is that I destroyed my Lower passenger side dash/glove box.

:-(

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Shifter cable in and adjusted. What a shit job. About an inch from the exhaust so definitely needs a heat shield. The front end has new springs, ball joints and (I think) bushes......not bad!

Also discovered that the gearbox mount is slotted and the cross member has another set of bolt holes 15mm further forward.. So as long as I can get the motor to move forward a little bit there are no driveshaft issues.

Something a wee bit scary is that when the driveshaft is turned by hand there is a squealing from inside the trans. I have zero actual idea what this could be and a very quick Google has found nothing.. Praying its just because there is a lack of oil lubricating things inside...?

Worst case there's the power glide sitting there.

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So today's been a bit odd.

My wife is off work sick so I decided at lunch to call it a day and head home with some flowers to keep her company.

On the way back I stopped in at the local engineering supplies store and (incredibly) they actually had exactly what I was after. Not in stainless BUT beggars can't be choosers.

They had elbows there too but at $13 ea (trade discount too!) Vs $3.55 I can live with a bend in the hose there.

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I will machine them a bit shorter at work tomorrow plus borrow a tap. I think its a great solution (to my other thread) as no critical AN dimension is affected so I can always do it with braid and anodised aluminium fittings later (I won't)

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So I sat around and was caring for a bit then decided to nail the fuel cell side of things for good.

The ODD part about today is that I walked into my garage and found everything required to install the fuel sender within about 30 seconds with zero holdups.. What. The. Fuck. :-)

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I even tested the sender with an ohmmeter thing to make sure it works...and it did.

And yes.. That there is one part of the worlds cheapest and most shit holesaw set in the world. Hopefully it will survive making an actual hole in aluminium (they don't work well on any other metal)

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